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Best places to spend 9 days climbing in July western states

Original Post
matt-jensen · · Hermosa Beach, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

I have the week of 4th of July off and I'm trying to plan a trip. Any advice where to go for good temps and moderate trad climbs. I lead 5.8-5.9 in my current state but my partner is relatively new. Been getting her up mostly 5.7 and under, couple of 5.9s in j tree and Alabama hills. I'm in Southern California but wouldn't mind driving as far as Colorado. Most of my experience is California, Yosemite, j tree, tahquitz, Malibu, and stony. Any suggestion to research would be greatly appreciated!

Jake C · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 10

It may be a little far, but I'd reccomend smith rock, because it is my home crag and I'm totally biased, just an incredible place to check out. You could climb monkey face and sleep in the mouth, keep in mind though it may be hot. If you want something cooler squamish is also incredible (albeit maybe a little far) and something closer and perhaps a littler cooler might be jackson/Teton area in wyoming.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

The High Sierra would be perfect for summer climbing. Ever do any alpine rock in the backcountry? Lots of moderates.

Of course, you will need to already have a partner.

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 392

Throw a dart at a map.... You can't go wrong

Logan Fuzzo · · Portland, OR · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 437

Washington pass. Cool alpine granite, better views than the sierras for sure. Lots of moderates, vacation grades, alpine cragging. Stay in mazama, camp up the lost river road. Good multipitch sport in mazama. Check out the enchantments in leavenworth on your way home, pass by Index for the best rock in the known universe.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 130

Looks like where all your experience is at is most of the good west coast places anyway.. Cant beat a return trip to Yosemite. Lots of moderates in Tuolumne. Northwest Buttress, Tenaya Peak 5.5 14 pitches. Regular Route, Fairview Dome 5.9 12 pitches..Or the East side of the Sierra. Maybe the East Buttress of Whitney 5.7 11 pitches. Have fun wish I would spend 9 days romping around the west climbing!!!

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Jake C wrote:It may be a little far, but I'd reccomend smith rock, because it is my home crag and I'm totally biased, just an incredible place to check out. You could climb monkey face and sleep in the mouth, keep in mind though it may be hot.
Smith in July????!!! May be hot????
Jake, go home! You're drunk!
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Lumpy Ridge?

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

Another vote for Washington Pass. It just doesn't get much better. You have TONS of options within your ability level.

Smith Rock would be too hot for me that time of year.

matt-jensen · · Hermosa Beach, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Thanks for the help people! Ya kinda looking to avoid the heat. And Yosemite is hot then and crowded. Don't know if the lady is really ready for more than maybe a couple pitches. I've taken her from 5.1 to 5.7 in the last 8 months. Mostly looking for a good road trip.

josh holmes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 215

Maple Canyon

About 10 hours or so from L.A.

The pay campground fills up fast in the summer but a high clearance vehicle can drive up to the top of the canyon (past the compound) to free camping.

Ancent · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 34

Based on the above information, Squamish seems to be your best bet. Take a day to knock out the drive north (it takes ~20 hrs to Vancouver), mess around BC (boulder, moderate climbs, some peaks to hike on "rest days"), and then mosey back at a slower pace (coast vs Cascades/Sierras). Don't mosey on the way north; you may get up to Squamish later than you want as there's so much to do (a mistake from personal experience)!

All the while, check the weather, and if it looks ugly up there, you've got an entire western US as a backup plan (including the North Cascades, as posted above).

matt-jensen · · Hermosa Beach, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Squamish, sounds interesting. Have some friends up there too. I'll look at all of your suggestions! Thanks again!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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