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Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After the Fire T 
Arctic Circle Jerk T 
Aurora Borealis T 
Best of Both Worlds T 
Black Bart T 
Black Beard T 
Control Tower S 
Lichen in the Eye 
Powder Finger T 
Scratch and Sniff T 
Shooting Star T 
Social D T 

Best of Both Worlds 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Cardmon (solo), 1999
Page Views: 826
Submitted By: Johnny K. on Jul 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Krysten enjoying Best of Both Worlds


Climb the crack (hidden in the photo) on the right side inside of the chimney, or climb the chimney strictly to gain access to the ledge. Make some moves onto the face, then up to some small ledges. Anchors on the big ledge to the left on the tower, or continue up to the top of black bluff.

Another variation is to climb the chimney or the crack, then traverse over to the thin small roof portion that finishes on "Control Tower" anchors or link up the rest of "Best of Both Worlds".


Located on the right side on the north face of Black Bluff.


Standard rack to #3 camalot
Couple runners for the ledges

Photos of Best of Both Worlds Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Best of both Worlds
Best of both Worlds
Rock Climbing Photo: Best of Both Worlds (left). Just next to chimney.
BETA PHOTO: Best of Both Worlds (left). Just next to chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: Best of both Worlds
Best of both Worlds

Comments on Best of Both Worlds Add Comment
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By Jeff Botimer
Aug 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I am not sure if the anchors that the description is talking about are exclusive to this route or if this route shares anchors with aurora borealis, but if "Best of both worlds" had its own anchors at one time, they are no longer there. I climbed up to the aurora anchors and used a directional to anchor this route.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Oct 10, 2012

No anchors have been removed, but there are anchors on top of the detached tower making up one wall of the chimney (Control Tower anchors).
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Sep 8, 2014

gear anchor atop the last big ledge on the main wall, near the top, but quite far left of the Aurora Borealis anchor. easy traverse to climber's left to get onto the topside walkoff
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
May 28, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

From the top of the block, keep climbing, following the cracks up and right. There are nice rap rings at the top and nothing goes at harder than 5.7.
By Camron
Jul 10, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The only two anchors I found for this route are at the top of control tower or on top of Aurora Borealis. However, there are plenty of options to build an anchor at the top of the finger crack that goes up past the chimney portion of the climb.

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