By Zack Wentz
From Vancouver, BC
Apr 28, 2012
| Hey everyone. I'm from Boulder, CO, and I'm fairly new to rock climbing. I've climbed outdoors for about 3 months now, and thus far have led 5.10a outdoors. I've done one multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon (Buried Treasure, 5.9) and absolutely loved it. Does anyone know similar multi-pitch sport routes anywhere in North America (US and Canada) that are within the same grade? | 
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 28, 2012
| Yea, Mexico has more multi-pitch sport than you could ever climb. I've heard of bolted limestone sport in Canada, and know for sure that there is some in Montana as well. There was a recent article in R&I I believe, about the scene in Montana - mentioned some big bolted routes.
Honestly though, the ticket to getting up of the deck in NAmer is trad. You don't have to clip a certain amount of bolts to "be ready" for trad climbing and you don't have to climb a certain grade to have fun. You happen to live in an area that is stacked full of easy and moderate traditional classics. Get out there! |
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By Josh Kornish
Apr 28, 2012
| Around Missoula there are some pretty nice Multi pitch sport routes. The ethic in MT is that to not bolt if it can take natural pro.
I would check out Leavenworth, Washington!! Some really long sport routes with a nice 'alpine' feel to them |
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By Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Apr 28, 2012
| For very long routes try; Blackleaf Canyon,Montana, North Face of Chinaman's,Alberta, Squaw Peak,Utah.
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By JonnyGreenlee
From Boulder, CO
Apr 28, 2012
| If you're looking for anything closer to Boulder:
I'm not sure if its open due to falcon nesting, but there is a 4 pitch 5.9 also in BoCan, The Young and the Rackless. There is a 2 pitch 5.9 at the Solaris crag. Over at Clear Creek there is a 4 pitch 5.8, Playin' Hooky.
The 5.10a version of Buried Treasure is also a lot of fun- do the Stayin Alive finish pitch to get on top of Tonnere Tower.
Zack Wentz wrote: Hey everyone. I'm from Boulder, CO, and I'm fairly new to rock climbing. I've climbed outdoors for about 3 months now, and thus far have led 5.10a outdoors. I've done one multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon (Buried Treasure, 5.9) and absolutely loved it. Does anyone know similar multi-pitch sport routes anywhere in North America (US and Canada) that are within the same grade? |
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By jordan cocanower
From Estes Park, CO
Apr 28, 2012
| throw the draws away man! super sik cracks out here |
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By Tom Grummon
From Golden, CO
May 4, 2012
| Check out the Mission Wall in Clear Creek. Close and fun. Aslo, Playing Hooky is pretty darn good to. |
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By shotgunnelson
May 4, 2012
| There is only one multi pitch climb you could get up at black leaf at that grade so I wouldn't call that a good suggestion. Once you get into 10+ 11- you should check it out. That place is one of my favorites. |
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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
May 4, 2012
| Zack Wentz wrote: Hey everyone. I'm from Boulder, CO, and I'm fairly new to rock climbing. I've climbed outdoors for about 3 months now, and thus far have led 5.10a outdoors. I've done one multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon (Buried Treasure, 5.9) and absolutely loved it. Does anyone know similar multi-pitch sport routes anywhere in North America (US and Canada) that are within the same grade?
So although I'm a little confused by the direction of your post, why don't you just go up to lumpy ridge in Estes park? Tons of granite like Bocan, lots of moderate multi pitch.
That would make alot more sense in my mind, instead of doing one multi-pitch then embarking on a tour of North America.
Climb the MULTIPLE moderate climbs that are within an hour of where you live. |
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By Jon Lachelt
From Fort Collins, CO
May 4, 2012
| Scott McMahon wrote: ... why don't you just go up to lumpy ridge in Estes park?...
He specifically asked about "sport" climbs. Are there some 5.9 sport climbs at Lumpy? |
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By Aaron O
From Seattle, WA
May 4, 2012
| Infinite Bliss in North Bend, WA (about 45 minutes from Seattle). It is a 23-pitch "sport" climb, with HUGE runouts on 5.2 climbing. There are 5 pitches 5.10 and above, crux being 5.10c. You have to rapp the route, which kind of sucks, but it is well worth the effort! From the top you are about 3500 above the river below, super exposed! |
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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
May 5, 2012
| Aaron O wrote: Infinite Bliss in North Bend, WA (about 45 minutes from Seattle). It is a 23-pitch "sport" climb, with HUGE runouts on 5.2 climbing. There are 5 pitches 5.10 and above, crux being 5.10c. You have to rapp the route, which kind of sucks, but it is well worth the effort! From the top you are about 3500 above the river below, super exposed!
Although a fun route, that is not a sport climb. That thing is R/X. When I climbed it I remember two pitches where the only pro was the belay station, I was runout 120' with no pro. Granted I may have missed a bolt, but so did the four guys behind me. But most of it is fairly well bolted. Just know that there are some easier moves where if you fall, well, lets say I hope you have health insurance.
Also, there is some serious rock fall on that thing once and awhile. A party 1500' above us dislodged a rock which ended up bringing a landslide down on me and another party. Out of four people, I was the only one that did not get hit by the rock fall. I was astonished no one was seriously injured, the rock fall was serious enough to wipe all four of us off the the grid. We were lucky that were in a small alcove, so a lot of the rock flew a few feet over our heads.
None, the less it was a fun route. Just don't approach it as a sport climb, as it is not. |
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