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Best Multi-Pitch Backpack
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Jun 4, 2010
Head full of lead. Photo by Frosty Weller
Three to 10 pitches to go. Gotta carry shoes, water, and a jacket. The approach was short so no other bag needed. What bag do you bring?

Low profile is cool. Light is nice. Carries well is essential.

The BD Bullet?
The Jansport that carried your calculus textbook?
The cargo pocket on your pants?
Goo in the chalkbag, map in the helmet, water in a nalgene clipped to your harness?

I've seen all of the above. What's your take on the best way to carry your non-climbing gear up a route?
D@n
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 10, 2005
186 points
Jun 4, 2010
Bocan
Bullet, Arcteryx Cierzo 15 both work well. Small so you'll carry some stuff on your body though.

I use the BD RPM for a bigger pack. Great pack but it sucks for rope carrying. No "lid" or rope attachment, so I have to run it through the should straps.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Jun 4, 2010
Profiley Styley
BD Bullet.

Mark Cushman
From Cumming, GA
Joined Sep 4, 2006
1,051 points
Site Landlord
Jun 4, 2010
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
I abhor carrying a pack... I usually clip my shoes, one water bottle, and a small jacket (in stuff sack) to my harness. For up to an 6-8 hour day it seems to work fine! Andy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,411 points
Jun 4, 2010
You might also consider the Cilogear 20l worksack. Not too expensive, hand made in Oregon, and this guy sure likes his.

Link: cilogear.com/20lws.html
W.S.
From Montana
Joined Oct 8, 2009
79 points
Administrator
Jun 4, 2010
Relaxing at the P1 belay of Fruit Loops at Rumblin...
I have the REI Flash 18 and I like it. It's very simple, just a sack with a sleeve for a hydration bladder, it weighs next to nothing and it's cheap. Just stuff your shoes, jacket, energy bars and water bottle/bladder in there and you're set for a long day of multi-pitch.

JL
saxfiend
From Decatur, GA
Joined Nov 14, 2006
4,571 points
Jun 4, 2010
21-August-2012: Me just before heading up the Twil...
Another choice if you are in or near Canada is the MEC Blitz Crag -- cheap ($20 CDN) rhyang
From San Jose, CA
Joined Jun 30, 2006
658 points
Jun 4, 2010
ME on Flake n Bake
saxfiend wrote:
I have the REI Flash 18 and I like it. It's very simple, just a sack with a sleeve for a hydration bladder, it weighs next to nothing and it's cheap. Just stuff your shoes, jacket, energy bars and water bottle/bladder in there and you're set for a long day of multi-pitch. JL



+1, Mine get's tons of usage and is super light.
Chris Tucker
Joined Jul 26, 2009
28 points
Jun 4, 2010
Second coming
Patagonia Pocket Pack. If you have a small torso this bag is great because it doesn't get in the way of your chalkbag. BD Bullet and any camelbak i've tried are too long. S.Mccabe
From boulder, co
Joined Apr 7, 2009
82 points
Jun 4, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!
BD Magnum is like a bullet with a bungie cord on the back and stretch side pockets. I've been using that and it's really nice. I chopped the waist belt off mine too. Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Jun 4, 2010
speedriding vail pass
bullet looks nice, too small to fit it much of any rack though. To me, it would be ideal if it was a tad bigger to fit a small trad rack in, but have really nice compressibility to not get in the way while climbing. Its not bad if you have a bigger pack to get your gear to the climb though, or climb close enough to the road to be able to rack up at the car. Couloirman
From Providence, RI
Joined Jan 31, 2009
28 points
Jun 4, 2010
speedriding vail pass
Doug Shepherd wrote:
I really like my Cilogear 20L.



Hmm, the new ones have no chest or waist strap, hows that working while climbing? Im on the fence right now but leaning towards cilogear if no straps climbs better than I think it might
Couloirman
From Providence, RI
Joined Jan 31, 2009
28 points
Jun 4, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!
Couloirman wrote:
bullet looks nice, too small to fit it much of any rack though. To me, it would be ideal if it was a tad bigger to fit a small trad rack in, but have really nice compressibility to not get in the way while climbing. Its not bad if you have a bigger pack to get your gear to the climb though, or climb close enough to the road to be able to rack up at the car.


Look at the magnum. I can get a reasonable rack in it.
Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Jun 4, 2010
old
Cilo 20L Worksack is my choice, . It weighs nothing, swallows up the gear and is made of burly fabric. Not having a waistbelt has not been an issue for me, the pack hugs my back when climbing. You could easily rig a waistbelt if you want.

Here is my review.. mountainproject.com/v/climbing...
Lynn S
Joined Jun 16, 2007
855 points
Jun 4, 2010
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.
BD Bullet is great. Here is my wife on All Two Obvious up in the park. Hard climbing but the pack carried well and she had no problems with it. Two rain jackets some food and her shoes in the pack.
Crux pitch of All Two Obvious, IV 11d, The Spearhe...
Crux pitch of All Two Obvious, IV 11d, The Spearhead, RMNP.
Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Joined Feb 26, 2006
1,040 points
Jun 4, 2010
speedriding vail pass
Cilogear=ordered. Time to see what all the fuss is about. Couloirman
From Providence, RI
Joined Jan 31, 2009
28 points
Jun 5, 2010
Mt. Baker
I have a BD Speed 30, and I love it. Large enough to haul a full rack, gear, and has a great rope strap. Strip the waist belt, top pocket, and frame sheet; it weighs just over a pound. It has good compression straps and sucks down nice and small for climbing. Hydration compatable, holds skis, and carries weight well. BirdDog
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jan 27, 2010
5 points
Jun 5, 2010
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
I have a Camelback Rogue that is pretty small. It has a flap that can hold your jacket and a zipper compartment for small items like a lighter and food. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,494 points
Jun 5, 2010
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
My BD Bullet pack finally wore out after many many years and thousands of vertical feet. But I replaced it with a Petzl Bug, which is just a better mousetrap.

There's an extensive review at

outdoorsmagic.com/product-revi...

I'd add a few comments:

(1) The back guidebook pocket is a really nice idea. It also works really well for maps and passports when the pack is used as an urban travel bag.

(2) Ditto the square shape and excellent high chalkbag/harness clearance.

(3) Simple compression straps on a small pack like this are a really good idea. When you aren't carrying much, it is great to be able to flatten the shape. The straps also hold a jacket or fleece for immediate use.

(4) The reviewer doesn't mention several things:

(a) The waist belt completely tucks away. You don't need it for climbing anyway and having a dangling waist belt just adds to the cluster. During the approach/descent, if you are carrying more stuff, the waist belt is a minor convenience. On the other hand, I think the sternum strap is helpful while climbing.

(b) There's a small "valuables" pocket at the top for keys, cellphone, etc.

(c) There's a small elastic pocket and keeper strap on one of the shoulder straps, intended for a topo drawn on ordinary paper and folded to fit.

(5) I agree with the reviewer that the straps at the bottom for carrying a rope on the approach/descent are not ideal. On the other hand, with a neat coil and perhaps a sling or two, the rope in this position can be turned into a big waist belt and then supports the pack, which might in those circumstances have the hardware in it.
rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Feb 15, 2008
288 points
Jun 5, 2010
speedriding vail pass
Is the BD Shot supposed to be the replacement for the bullet? what is the difference between the two? From the pics the shot seems taller and lower profile, while the bullet looks shorter and less low profile but this is just speculation from the photos. Would a normal sized guidebook fit in the outer pocket? Couloirman
From Providence, RI
Joined Jan 31, 2009
28 points
Jun 5, 2010
Magic Ed
Mountain Tools Jet pack is also quite excellent and built to last forever. Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points
Jun 5, 2010
Which way again?
+1 BD Speed pack. The old ones were burlier, but for a pack that I'm climbing with, light is right. Compresses down to nothing, fits a rack+more, keep patching the fucker til it falls apart. BTW I have used one of these for 2 years as a bike bag commuting to work with tools, hard hat, lunch, etc., and it's still in good enough shape to rock in the canyons as long as I'm not jumping on OW/chimney. Got a Bullet but I'm really not that sold on it. I like carrying my rack down in a pack when I'm done, prolongs the life of your rack not getting scrub oaked to death on every approach and descent, packs are way cheaper than racks in the long run. Same with your average $200 cord or two. Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Jun 5, 2010
old
Couloirman, I hope you enjoy your Cilo pack, mine has been ideal for multi-pitch routes. I would be curious to know what you think after you put it to the test.

One of mine came in white fabric and one boring winter night I customized it with a few Sharpies, which is nice....
Customized 20L Worksack
Customized 20L Worksack
Lynn S
Joined Jun 16, 2007
855 points
Jun 5, 2010
Beagle
most of the time a old Camelbak HAWG, before they turned into legitimate trekking packs. And when you need more room and weighing in at only 8oz. the Cilo Gear NWD20 (pricey) or, far cheaper and only 2oz. heavier, the normal 20L WorkSack. Bryan Gilmore
From Your Mama
Joined Nov 7, 2005
1,065 points
Jun 5, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!
Lynn's customization FTW! Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Jun 6, 2010
me on my redpoint
The new BD shot backpack is the ticket. I have had one for a few weeks and I am a big fan.
blackdiamondequipment.com/en-u...
Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points


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