I was reading the Michael's Project thread and I started thinking about all of the "less than elegant" routes at DL. Here are my nominations:

Kamikazee-The angry older brother of Michael's Project

Via Apia--knee jams at the top.

First pitch of Wiessner Wall--sure it feels easy if you do it perfectly, but if you don't...

First pitch of Turks Head Ridge--yeah its only twenty feet long, but it feels like fifty, and don't forget about the dirt and the moss.

Chez's Chimney--too many features, not enough holds.

The Funnel - The awkward, slick, steep crack that you have to thug through to get to Bucket Brigade and the other fun easy climbs above.

I also agree w/ the first part of Turks Head Ridge...that dirty inside corner is awful.

Speaking of "The Funnel". I led through it this weekend past wanting to get on "Bucket Brigade". Speaking of "Bucket Brigade"...
I did not go near it but decided to finish up the fun right hand variation (slab/face/crack/arete/broken rock) thing just left and around the corner of the top section of "Happy Hunting Grounds". The reason for no go on "Bucket Brigade"??? Right now (maybe all the time?)it is a wet, slimey, smelly, and pigeon crap smeared gross out....... I think maybe more then "less than elegant".... And "The Funnel"? No surprise! That was cold, wet and slippery, and dirty as ever as well.

I can't believe I for got about the Funnel. It sure deserves mention at the top of the list.

Here are a few other obscure routes that I recall thinking to myself, "I never need to do that again"

R.C. at West Post - the top out was a grovel
The Hangman - Hangman tower
Flying Fish - February wall
Squirm - Juniper wall
Charlotte's Web - Waterfall wall

How about moderately hard but maybe not so heinous grovel-fests (maybe even fun grovel-fests)?

"The Munge" up by "Horse Rampart"? Sharp, awkward, and steep but super well protected. Spider webbed up because doesn't get much traffic.

"The Green Slime" up on "West Bluff" below "Turk's"? All of the above plus throw in a smattering of fuzzy moss to boot.

How about Caternary on a 90 degree 85 percent humidity August day.

On further review I guess any route at the Lake qualifies under those circumstances...

Oh ya!

And how about that "Jack the Ripper" to the right of "Caternary". Equally slimey and thrutchfestive but a bit harder. The name says it all. The back of the right hand takes the brunt if I remember correctly?

Jay,
I do know someone else who has climbed RC but you may be right on the other routes.

What about 'Whipping Boy' near 'The Good, the Bad and the Jacked' on a hot day?

I have watch a few people climb 'Breakfast of Champions' and it looked like such a grovel-fest I've never gotten on it.

The one and only time I did Breakfast of Champions, three pidgeons exploded out of the big chimney to the right. I almost soiled myself and then I fell.

Whoa there,

Every aspect of Breakfast of Champions is fantastic. It isn't super-slick like the Whipping Boys and also one of the best crack climbs at DL.

Heinous grovel-fests? That sure sounds like every climb at DL at one point or another.

www.mountainproject.com/v/wisconsin/devils_lake/east_bluff__>>>

Check out the pic of this dude on "BoC". He looks like he is having way too much fun to be climbing some henious grovelfest???

Gotta agree with Eddie on BOC. Fun, well protected steep crack with good movement. Rare sort of climb for DL.

Pigeon Roof -- definitely heinous (for the smell).
Tibia Crack -- dirty and awkward.

By the way, the pigeon incident was very funny.....

Tibia Crack definitely. I didn't think the top of Via Apia was all that bad. With even minimal OW technique it goes pretty easily. Chez's Chimney too. I remember at one point straddling one of those large protruding flakes and thinking, "man, this blows."

The right hand start to American Dream Roof comes to mind too. Pretty thrutchy for me when I lead it.

I'm with everyone who loves BOC though, awesome climb. All of the 5.8
given by the Swartling Guide.

I would nominate "Ptooey" 5.8 (yeah right!?) @ Sandstone for the Best Heinous Grovel Fest Award.

Ah man, I forgot about Ptooey. Maybe I blocked it out. I don't think I'll ever be able to send that.

Maybe the people I watched trying to climb B.O.C. really sucked .........I don't know. I guess I'll have to get on it!

Just about everything on the West Bluffs.

Come on Leo - that's a bit aggressive. There are a lot of good climbs on the West Bluff - I'd give some examples, but I just can't think of any right now...

Cracker Jack and Lost Face are good, and that unnamed finger crack just to the right of Lost Face seems decent enough.

Of course, I've also chuffed my way up some awful crap on the West Bluff, but I don't remember the names...I remember one climb where I was trying to squeeze between a tree and a boulder, with a small branch stabbing me in the back the whole time.

Good West Bluff routes/leads? How about the Pillow? The Bone? False Perspective? Weisners Face? Queens Throne? To name a few...

I'd say that the three great "East Faces" at Devil's Lake are worth climbing on: Lost Face, Wiessner's Face, and Pork Chop. Otherwise, stay away as you are likely to encounter short, insignificant climbs and/or an infestation of boyscouts.

Govel-fests on the West: The Pooper, False Perspective, Queens Throne, Stuck Knee.

Queens Throne is a grovel? Hmmm...