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Best General Mountaineering/Beginner Boots

Original Post
Dallas Koller · · Chico, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 25

Hey All,

I'm looking to get my first pair of mountaineering boots and thought I'd see what advice y'all had. I'm fairly new to the alpine world, but have done several winter ascents of some peaks in the Adirondacks (I know they're short)and some non-technical routes like Avalanche Gulch on Mount Shasta. I've been trudging about in my Asolo backpacking boots (full grain leather and gore-tex) and some old North Face Baltoro's which works, but also sucks immensely. Basically I'm looking for a solid general boot that I can wear for routes like the above, but will also be functional as I move into more technical terrain. I've looked at the Nepal Evo and the Koflach Degre's, but would love to hear what the MP community has to say. I have a narrow foot and have been steadfastly devoted to La Sportiva for my rock shoes which have always fit perfectly if that helps.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100

Nepals. Sounds like you've already figured that out though. Now just go find the cheapest pair you can get.

PatCleary · · Boston, MA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

Any interest in ice climbing? If not I'd look for a boot of similar warmth but not quite as stiff as the Nepals. Mine climb great, but they're not fun to walk a long ways in. Also, if you ski, I'd recommend touring boots and skis for Avalanche Gulch.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

If you do end up getting Evo's try a pair of the womens version on, they tend to work really good on narrow feet. If your not planning on doing any ice climbing ever (why??????) you could look at something more like the salewa pro gaiter or salewa guide pro which has a "walk mode" that allows it to bend quite a bit when your walking in it all the time, and then locks back up for vertical ice or frontpointing.

Eddie F · · Edwards, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 25

I have the salewa gaiter pro's and the walk mode broke on both boots. On one the allen wrench got stripped, on the other sand got into the whole gear part or whatever and has made it nearly impossible to turn. I love the boots in climb mode, so maybe salewa has a few kinks to work out. Haven't checked out the warranty yet.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I've said this many times, but the best boot is what FITS you. Myself I can wear nepals, but not sportiva's with the Trango last. That being said I'd look at what you consider mountaineering and what you'd like to do with them. I have mountaineering boots (scarpa charmoz, triolet), and I have ice dedicated boots such as the nepals and kayland M11+. Not to say I can't use all of them for multiple functions, but I wouldn't want to climb in winter in my triolets and wouldn't want to walk to a spring climb in my nepals. Of course what kind of crampon do you plan to use is a consideration.

If you are a 10.5 I'm selling some Scarpa Freney's GTX, and possibly my charmoz and kayland's if you are interested. haha I have way too many boots and am looking to trim the quiver.

Dallas Koller · · Chico, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 25

Definitely interested in ice climbing and I have even tried it out a couple times with borrowed boots. What's the deal with the Nepal Cube GTX? It looks like a more updated version of the Evo? Routes like Avy Gulch are just the beginning and I've been using it as my training route. I'm planning on heading up Casaval Ridge and Sargent's Ridge this month, both on Shasta, and plan to move into more difficult climbs as soon as I can do so comfortably. I very much want to get into mixed/ice climbing and alpine rock routes too.

Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

The advice sounds about right. Be sure to be able to try on both Sportiva and Scarpa. The Scarpa usually fit wider feet alot better.

People mention the nepals, but if you are doing spring climbs on Shasta I think you can get away with a lighter boot which save weight and perhaps climb better. Check out the Charmoz or Trango. There are also newer (more expensive) light boots like the Rebel GTX.

Just try them on in the store with socks and make sure they aren't too tight.

Mike Belu · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 135

I just got these. There's a coupon code on the front page of the site, for another 35% off. That brought the cost down to about $180.
sierratradingpost.com/s~aso…

Just slightly heavier than the trangos. Feel comfortable. I wear 12 street shoe and got 13 to accommodate for thick socks. I also put those "sole" inserts in them.

Planning on using them for the Sierra in May. Might be a cheaper, but good option.

Code for extra 35% is EB040114B. Unlimited uses through April 3rd.

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

holy %$#&!@#, mike where do you get these deals from, this just cut a sleeping bag purchase cost in half... frantically searching stp site

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

if money isnt an issue just get Batura 2s

Joe Crawford · · Truckee, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 105

Nepal EVO if it fits well. Put 400+ days on my last pair doing everything from guiding on Mt. Shasta to ice/mixed climbing and even using them as my rope access work boots.

Mike Belu · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 135

Hi Tom,
glad you could use it. I got the code in my email. Must be on their mailing list from prior purchases.

Cheers,

Mike

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318
Mike Belu wrote:...I got the code in my email...
STP spams heavily, so I shut off the notifications and just search for coupon codes when I need something. You can almost always find 25-35% off on one of the coupon aggregator sites.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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