Best first sport lead in Boulder area?
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My roommate and I are relatively new to climbing, just picked up gear for the summer (12 draws, 70m rope, gear for rappelling). We can lead 5.8s in the gym, have led 5.7 outdoor with an experienced partner. Where would be a good spot in the Boulder area to lead a sport climb on our own for the first time? I found this thread but since it is six years old, I figured I would ask again and see if anything has changed. |
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If you are going to lower use your draws or set up a TR anchor. Save the links by rapping. |
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I never lower on fixed gear. I didn't put it there, I probably won't be there to replace it. I lower on anchor draws if my partner is going to climb it, if not, I rap. Look at Other Critters in Clear Creek Canyon. I know, it's not Boulder, but..... There's a pretty easy 5.7 3 1/2 pitch, some other single pitch 7's, a few 8's. Nice routes. Get there early. |
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The Safari, close to Other Critters, has good easy sport climbs as well. |
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Check out North Table Mountain in Golden as well. Many of the routes there are fixed with huge anchor shuts kind of made for lowering off. Also if you aren't feeling the lead you can set top ropes on numerous routes from the top. Or if you have to bail you can get your gear back. Good luck, have fun, and be safe. |
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Clean Sweep at Tonnre Tower |
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I can take you out for a morning in Boulder Canyon to climb some moderates and make sure you guys don't kill yourselves. |
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Jon H wrote:I can take you out for a morning in Boulder Canyon to climb some moderates and make sure you guys don't kill yourselves.Take this guy up on his offer. Kudos Jon. |
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Keith W wrote:If you are going to lower use your draws or set up a TR anchor.If you are going to TR, use your own draws. If you are cleaning the route, then you may lower or rap as you choose and as you judge safest. The only people who will tell you to always rap are misplaced trad climbers or weak sport climbers. Suka D. wrote:I never lower on fixed gear. I didn't put it there, I probably won't be there to replace it.Donate to the Access Fund or the BCC or just continue as a free loader. The route suggestions in the linked thread are excellent. Cat Slab is a possibility too, although getting pretty hot. mountainproject.com/v/gumby… and several others. |
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Mark E Dixon wrote: If you are going to TR, use your own draws. If you are cleaning the route, then you may lower or rap as you choose and as you judge safest. The only people who will tell you to always rap are misplaced trad climbers or weak sport climbers. Donate to the Access Fund or the BCC or just continue as a free loader. The route suggestions in the linked thread are excellent. Cat Slab is a possibility too, although getting pretty hot. mountainproject.com/v/gumby… and several others.A generalization on climbers of all backgrounds, but I respect your opinion. I think if you can rap why not, you're already going to untie unless there are lowering hooks (JUST MY OPINION). Save the hardware just a bit. +1 on donating to access fund and BCC and all those that keep up the bolts and anchors. Keep our climbs safe! |
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Keith W wrote: A generalization on climbers of all backgrounds, but I respect your opinion. I think if you can rap why not, you're already going to untie unless there are lowering hooks (JUST MY OPINION). Save the hardware just a bit. +1 on donating to access fund and BCC and all those that keep up the bolts and anchors. Keep our climbs safe!Sorry, this has been argued so many times my patience wears thin. Around Boulder, you should do whatever you think is safest and if that makes the chains wear out more quickly, contribute to their replacement. As you start leading steeper routes, you will more clearly see the advantages of lowering. |
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The Watermark has a 5.7 and a 5.7+ that are perfect for a first sport lead. Have brought friends there for their first lead and they would agree. |
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Michael Colby wrote:The Watermark has a 5.7 and a 5.7+ that are perfect for a first sport lead. Have brought friends there for their first lead and they would agree.Yeah I would second that. They feel a little soft for the grade, are well bolted and those "rails" are really fun climbing. Balancy, little high stepping and all the holds are positive. Those are some of my favorite after work lappers. Plus the watermark is a fun place to chill on a hot day at least until the bugs start coming out. |