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Best easy trad in the Gunks?
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By Devin Krevetski
From West Woodstock, VT
Mar 27, 2012
JohnWesely wrote:
The start on Easy Keyhole is probably harder than any of the other routes you posted.



I swear the first 10 feet of any route at the gunks don't count towards the grade.

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By Mark Roth
From Boulder
Mar 27, 2012
not climbing
Casa Emilio is a fun one. Only 5.2 in the guide book... But a fun adventure far from the crowds.

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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Mar 27, 2012
pooler wrote:
So what does everyone think? I'm talking around the 5.4 to 5.5 range? Also I know the Gunks tend to be a little stiff so how does your route compare to others not at the Gunks of the same grade, or maybe even harder?

Some stuff here is kind of a sandbag for the grade. I think Betty and Three Pines are both smart options. I'm not sure you've heard the advice "beware the +", but it will serve you well.

From what I could see the objections that were being raised to many of the easy routes (hawk,red pillar, sixish) were all quite legitimate. For example, Red Pillar is a super nice route at the grade... with a first pitch that protects quite well with a fistful of microcams that most beginning leaders don't carry. Without them, your first pro is about 15 feet above a huge ledge!

If you've never climbed here before, a TR or two might lower the pucker factor quite a bit.

Have fun!

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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 27, 2012
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.
I'll add Yum Yum Yab Yum to the list. It's just before the closed area of the Nears.

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By -sp
From East-Coast
Mar 27, 2012
Buenos Dias!
KathyS wrote:
I'll add Yum Yum Yab Yum to the list. It's just before the closed area of the Nears.

Truly horrible climb, don't even waste your time.*

















* just being a selfish bitch. It's fantastic.

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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Mar 28, 2012
Rumney
P2 and 4 of YYYY are great. P4 would definitely be a good introduction to Gunks traversing. :)

I wouldn't worry about drawing people to the Nears. There's a stigma to the climbs there. Their loss!

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By Erboutitman
From farmingdale ny
Apr 7, 2012
moonlight

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By doligo
Apr 7, 2012
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
Erboutitman wrote:
moonlight


bestest 5.6 in the Gunks! (might be a tad stiff though)

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By Erboutitman
From farmingdale ny
Apr 7, 2012
doligo wrote:
bestest 5.6 in the Gunks! (might be a tad stiff though)

truth

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