Mountain Project: Forum: Best easy trad in the Gunks?

By devkrev
From West Woodstock, VT
Mar 27, 2012

JohnWesely wrote:

The start on Easy Keyhole is probably harder than any of the other routes you posted.

I swear the first 10 feet of any route at the gunks don't count towards the grade.

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By Mark Roth
From Boulder
Mar 27, 2012

Casa Emilio is a fun one. Only 5.2 in the guide book... But a fun adventure far from the crowds.

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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Mar 27, 2012

pooler wrote:

So what does everyone think? I'm talking around the 5.4 to 5.5 range? Also I know the Gunks tend to be a little stiff so how does your route compare to others not at the Gunks of the same grade, or maybe even harder?

Some stuff here is kind of a sandbag for the grade. I think Betty and Three Pines are both smart options. I'm not sure you've heard the advice "beware the +", but it will serve you well.

From what I could see the objections that were being raised to many of the easy routes (hawk,red pillar, sixish) were all quite legitimate. For example, Red Pillar is a super nice route at the grade... with a first pitch that protects quite well with a fistful of microcams that most beginning leaders don't carry. Without them, your first pro is about 15 feet above a huge ledge!

If you've never climbed here before, a TR or two might lower the pucker factor quite a bit.

Have fun!

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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 27, 2012

I'll add Yum Yum Yab Yum to the list. It's just before the closed area of the Nears.

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By -sp
From East-Coast
Mar 27, 2012

KathyS wrote:

I'll add Yum Yum Yab Yum to the list. It's just before the closed area of the Nears.

Truly horrible climb, don't even waste your time.*

* just being a selfish bitch. It's fantastic.

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By Kevin Heckeler
From West Sand Lake, New York
Mar 28, 2012

P2 and 4 of YYYY are great. P4 would definitely be a good introduction to Gunks traversing. :)

I wouldn't worry about drawing people to the Nears. There's a stigma to the climbs there. Their loss!

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By Erboutitman
From farmingdale ny
Apr 7, 2012

moonlight

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By doligo
Apr 7, 2012

Erboutitman wrote:

moonlight

bestest 5.6 in the Gunks! (might be a tad stiff though)

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By Erboutitman
From farmingdale ny
Apr 7, 2012

doligo wrote:

bestest 5.6 in the Gunks! (might be a tad stiff though)

truth

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