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Best easy trad in the Gunks?
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Mar 27, 2012
JohnWesely wrote:
The start on Easy Keyhole is probably harder than any of the other routes you posted.



I swear the first 10 feet of any route at the gunks don't count towards the grade.
Devin Krevetski
From West Woodstock, VT
Joined May 3, 2008
57 points
Mar 27, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: not climbing
Casa Emilio is a fun one. Only 5.2 in the guide book... But a fun adventure far from the crowds. Mark Roth
From Boulder
Joined Jan 4, 2008
13,157 points
Mar 27, 2012
pooler wrote:
So what does everyone think? I'm talking around the 5.4 to 5.5 range? Also I know the Gunks tend to be a little stiff so how does your route compare to others not at the Gunks of the same grade, or maybe even harder?

Some stuff here is kind of a sandbag for the grade. I think Betty and Three Pines are both smart options. I'm not sure you've heard the advice "beware the +", but it will serve you well.

From what I could see the objections that were being raised to many of the easy routes (hawk,red pillar, sixish) were all quite legitimate. For example, Red Pillar is a super nice route at the grade... with a first pitch that protects quite well with a fistful of microcams that most beginning leaders don't carry. Without them, your first pro is about 15 feet above a huge ledge!

If you've never climbed here before, a TR or two might lower the pucker factor quite a bit.

Have fun!
Optimistic
From New Paltz
Joined Aug 29, 2007
328 points
Mar 27, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outl...
I'll add Yum Yum Yab Yum to the list. It's just before the closed area of the Nears. KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Nov 16, 2007
137 points
Mar 27, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Buenos Dias!
KathyS wrote:
I'll add Yum Yum Yab Yum to the list. It's just before the closed area of the Nears.

Truly horrible climb, don't even waste your time.*

















* just being a selfish bitch. It's fantastic.
-sp
From East-Coast
Joined May 25, 2007
80 points
Mar 28, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Rumney
P2 and 4 of YYYY are great. P4 would definitely be a good introduction to Gunks traversing. :)

I wouldn't worry about drawing people to the Nears. There's a stigma to the climbs there. Their loss!
Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Joined Jul 10, 2010
1,604 points
Apr 7, 2012
moonlight Erboutitman
From farmingdale ny
Joined Jan 13, 2011
5 points
Apr 7, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
Erboutitman wrote:
moonlight


bestest 5.6 in the Gunks! (might be a tad stiff though)
doligo
Joined Sep 26, 2008
412 points
Apr 7, 2012
doligo wrote:
bestest 5.6 in the Gunks! (might be a tad stiff though)

truth
Erboutitman
From farmingdale ny
Joined Jan 13, 2011
5 points


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