So what does everyone think? I'm talking around the 5.4 to 5.5 range? Also I know the Gunks tend to be a little stiff so how does your route compare to others not at the Gunks of the same grade, or maybe even harder?
Some stuff here is kind of a sandbag for the grade. I think Betty and Three Pines are both smart options. I'm not sure you've heard the advice "beware the +", but it will serve you well.
From what I could see the objections that were being raised to many of the easy routes (hawk,red pillar, sixish) were all quite legitimate. For example, Red Pillar is a super nice route at the grade... with a first pitch that protects quite well with a fistful of microcams that most beginning leaders don't carry. Without them, your first pro is about 15 feet above a huge ledge!
If you've never climbed here before, a TR or two might lower the pucker factor quite a bit.
Optimistic From New Paltz Joined Aug 29, 2007 247 points