Best Deal in Town
BETA PHOTO: A topo photo for Best Deal in Town. Sorry for the...
A fun two pitch climb that has a great second great pitch. Lives up to the name!
Head right at the fork in the trail and head up to the obvious ramp. Follow the bolts up this for the first pitch topping out on a large ledge system. 1 bolt anchor here with the climb being on the right face and traversing out left following the bolt line. An alternate that I prefer is to climb Raspberry Arete and then rappel down to the start of the second pitch. Best of both worlds!
Bolts, with a potential for a medium cam to backup the one bolt anchor at the top of the 1st pitch.
|Comments on Best Deal in Town
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
May 25, 2011
One of the best routes on the highway.
Dino Head is also one of the better crags with a fair number of harder bolted routes on good rock (for the Seward highway).
|By Richard Shore|
Jun 12, 2013
IMO - one of the worst chosspiles I've climbed on the highway. Every hold through the crux traverse sequence is flexing badly, and held in place by little more than a thin veneer of mud. The steep face before the traverse is also packed with large, flexing blocks. Not sure why everyone loves this one so much. It's got a couple of neat moves. I'll give it one star for length..
and minus 800 stars for rock quality.
Jun 20, 2013
Another negative comment by Richard! Go climb some of John Kelly's routes and then you can comment on being a choss connoisseur.
|By Richard Shore|
Jun 21, 2013
Actually, Jess, I do aspire to climb some of John's routes. He has done some amazing things in the alpine realm. Frozen choss is probably a bit more solid than this route, though. Someone who might step onto this climb expecting the "4-star" experience based on comments here might be extremely dissatisfied, much like myself.