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Best crampon fit for LS Nepal Evos? How about the Spantiks?
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By Eric G.
Feb 15, 2013
Looking to upgrade my crampons, and don't have convenient access to a store where I can test the fit of a bunch of different sets. In your experience, which crampons fit the Nepal Evo the best? How about the Spantiks? I'm not interested in momo-point only crampons either. Thanks!

Edit: any beta regarding Grivel crampons? I'm impressed with the company, but don't what they design for steep ice that fits well with the above boots. How about the G14?

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By luke Lydiard
From Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 15, 2013
I have both of these boots and I find that the Petzl Lynx fits them both well. They are kinda pricey but have the ability to run mono or dual points and come with anti-bots, a bag and a strap on toe bail in addition to a regular step in toe bail.

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By Mike Hasse
From Lebanon, NH
Feb 15, 2013
Descending the knife edge ridge on Aiguille du Midi, Sept. 2012
I personally prefer Cyborgs over the Lynx's with my Nepal Evos. In my size (42.5), the front piece on the Lynx is a little too large, i.e. either the front points extend too far past the toe of my boot, or the fourth set of points extends well into the arch of the boot, making walking a challenge. Also, the heel portion of the Lynx's doesn't fit the heel on my Nepals very well.

The worst problem I've encountered with the Cyborgs is the front toe bail, which is pretty wide. Setting the crampons super tight tends to avoid any scary shifting while climbing, but I can't say what it does for the long term life of the boot. The best option I've found recently is to use the Lynx toe bails on the Cyborgs, and that seems to eliminate all the problems. I believe Dane has suggested something similar in the past.

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By Eric G.
Feb 15, 2013
Great reply. I think I wear the same size boots too.

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By Jeff J
From Bozeman
Feb 15, 2013
I have Napal EVO with Grivle G14 running duel point.
I find that the G14 Fit extreamly well. Bettern than my Cyborgs. The cyborgs dont fit the heal as well and the toe bail on my tiny boot are matched better for the G14s.

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By Eric G.
Feb 15, 2013
Jeff--what size boot you wearing?

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By Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Feb 15, 2013
My navigator keeps me from getting lost
I have Nepals and Spantiks. BD crampons, both the Cyborg and Sabretooth fit very well. I wear a 47 and had to get the long center bar.

Edit to add: The long center bar was necessary for the Spantiks. The 'pons fit the Nepals with the standard center bar.

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By JonBates
From cody, wy
Feb 15, 2013
I've run grivel g14's, g12's, and rambo's on my nepal evos(size 44.5) with absolutely no problems. On the g14's I made sure that I sized the crampon correctly, as in it would almost stay on without the heel bail. Then just fine tune the heel bail with the spinning adjuster on the top of the lever. No experience with the spantiks, but they fit my omegas great as well. Grivel's are bombproof!

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By Jeff J
From Bozeman
Feb 15, 2013
Eric G. wrote:
Jeff--what size boot you wearing?


My boots are a EU 40 = mens 8

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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 15, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Rambos with nepal evo looks like a great combo

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By Jim Sweeney
Feb 15, 2013
Eric,

Here's an article on crampon fit. Crampon Fit on Coldthistle
There are also other articles on specific boot/crampon combos if you want to root them out.
Perhaps you could stop by the Mountaineer when you're in the Daks for a fitup.

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By Adam Burch
From San Dieger
Feb 15, 2013
you local?
I own both, nepals in a 46, spantik in a 46.5

G14s fit like a dream. Had to get the long bar to fit the spantiks, but chopped it so it will work on both boots. My buddy runs BDs, cyborgs and saber, and they are wide up front on the same boots. His feet are a few sizes smaller than mine.

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By Ali Jaffri
From Westminster, CO
Feb 15, 2013
At the village in Hunza Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan
I have used both the new style with the front rubber strap and the old style Black Diamond Sabretooths with the front bail with my Spantiks. The strap-style combo is the worst Ive ever had with any boot-crampon combo, when you kick, your toe will hit the ice A LOT instead of your front points.

The combo with Spantik and Sabretooth with front bail works perfectly.

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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Feb 15, 2013
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+1 for Lynx. Sleek and climb awesome.

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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Feb 19, 2013
Another vote for Sabertooths. Great all around crampon, can climb pretty much anything with those...

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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Feb 20, 2013
Middle
Try on the three main brands. The small size of your boots will be the biggest fit issue. I'd bet Grivel will fit best because of the heel piece.

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By The Ex-Engineer
From UK
Feb 20, 2013
I have Nepals in a 43 and have recently fitted both Grivel AirTech with cramp-o-matic bindings and Grivel G20s. In both cases I got an extremely good fit (so good I need to use my axe pick to lever them back off again!) but that was after 2-3 hours of adjustment and trying numerous variations.

I didn't find either Grivel front bale design offered a perfect fit and I ended up offsetting the front bail in both cases to improve matters somewhat. I could easily believe that Petzl front bales could fit better.

I have previously used G12s with newmatic bindings and found them a superb fit.

It is not a first hand opinion but the G14 design does not inspire me and in a straight comparison I think the Petzl Lynx looks a better option, both in terms of weight and the ability to use them, if needed, on more flexible boots.

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By Dane
Feb 20, 2013
Cham '11
Just Solo wrote:
Another vote for Sabertooths. Great all around crampon, can climb pretty much anything with those...



If the BD stainless will stay in one piece. It has a continued (from inception to date) habit of failing. Try an internet search for the details.

Boot size make a huge difference on how any of the crampons fit. With smaller boots a Grivel crampon and the Petzl front bale is usually a winner.

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By Erik Eriksson
Feb 21, 2013
taking the steep line
old style sabretooths with spantiks

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By Eric G.
Feb 21, 2013
Thanks everybody. I'll let you know how it turns out.

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By Chris Parsons
Feb 21, 2013
The Grivel g20 and the g14 fit perfectly with Nepals. If your boot is a size 47 or larger you might want the long bar attachment.

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By MIP
Mar 13, 2014
I realize this is an old topic (apols), but can anybody clarify re which G14 binding - new-matic or cramp-o-matic - fits LS Nepal Evo (size 43 or thereabouts) well, or best, or do both?

I have been using G12 new-matic on this boot for several years and the fit is good, but have heard/seen a few comments re issues with protrusion of front points on G14 (too short?) on LS NE.

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