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Best crags in Logan?
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By xinkai
Oct 6, 2012

Hi, we are visiting Logan for a few days and hopefully we can get out climbing! I wonder people's opinion of the best sports routes between 5.10 and 5.12 range. With only one or two days, we can visit only a few crags, so any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.


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By Brian Hestetune
From Logan, UT
Oct 7, 2012

Rodent Ranch has several good climbs in that range.. From 10a - 13d. Morning sun, Afternoon Shade. There are 3 .10's, a few great 11s, several good 12s. Notable ones... Mr. Jingles (10c), Black Mouse Squeaks (10a), Callalo (11a), Pika Angst (11c) Black Elk Speaks (12a), Basted Pikas (12c)

Fucoidal fits the range. Although some of the 10s can be a tad greasy (most popular crag in Logan), they are still good climbs. Make sure to do Begging for bolts (Enduro 11a), Limestone Cowboy (12a), and Adios Amigos (12a). Late Afternoon shade with mid day sun.

385 is filled with quality 11s, a few 12s, and pale face (best of its grade in the canyon?).

If you want to just climb solid 12s, Blacksmith Wall and Hardware Wall have the highest concentration of quality 12s. They are located in Blacksmith Fork Canyon (South of Logan). And of course, if you want cave climbing... check out China Cave. Quality, Although slick, routes for sure. Coast to Coast and The Oboe are two great cave climbs. The 'slab' section offers a couple 11s and several really good hard face climbs.


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By xinkai
Oct 7, 2012

Thanks Brian. I will check those areas out. Is it possible to climb early in the morning? I may have some half days free.


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By Mattberr
From utah
Oct 7, 2012
uintas

Also check out betagraph. mornings might be pretty cold up in logan right now but I bet if you bundle up you would be ok.


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