Mountain Project Logo

Best crag in Boulder to take my mother in-law?

Original Post
Dan Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 40

My wife and I are taking my mother in-law on her first climb this weekend...yee hawwww!

What crag should we go to?

I'm talking like 5.0-5.4 range and a place we can stay out of everyone's way...

Thanks!

marty funkhouser · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 20

The MIL? Try and talk her into leading Southern Belle.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

The Umph Slot on the Dome is only 5.8, nice and sunny, rarely crowded.

Dan Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 40

I figured this is what I'd get...shame on me...

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

A flatiron would be doable. There are also a bunch of 5.0 - 5.6 climbs on the wind tower in Eldo.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

If you are going to do a flatiron, maybe the First Flatironette? I haven't done it, but it's supposed to be pretty nice and easy. The Spy is cool, but maybe a little airy?
If she's up for a long climb, the easy route on the Second is pretty good. There's a scary jump across near the top though- might be some way to avoid it.

David House · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 453

East Slabs on the Whale's Tail in Eldo, gets you into a very impressive location at a very low grade (5.2).

mkugel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Something on The Slab perhaps? Or yeah, Freeway on the 2nd Flatiron.

Brad White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 25

Depending on how good your relationship with your mother-in-law is, and how good you want it to be, you might try the Rodwand. SicMic can give you all the beta you need. :-)

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
David Houston wrote:East Slabs on the Whale's Tail in Eldo, gets you into a very impressive location at a very low grade (5.2).
Good recommendation with the exception of that 4th class short section of the approach. I think that might scare a new climber. I still hate going around there with a heavy pack on.

I'd recommend the Gregory amphitheater. Short approach, short climbs with super low easy climbing.
Erik Hopkins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

Second flatiron is fun and has some spots to make the climbing more challenging. Plus great views and a walk off finish.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/freeway/105752023

Beth Curran · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

As a newish climber (about a year in), and also a somewhat timid and easily scared climber, I can say if someone had taken me on the First Flatiron for my first climb, I might never have climbed again. I know it's easy, but multi-pitch can be pretty scary (I'm trying hard to work through that), and it's a fairly long climb.

I would recommend the first pitch of The Bomb on the Wind Tower. It's 5.4 and relatively short. It was my second climb ever and I still found it a bit intimidating, having no understanding at the time of how gear or anchors worked. The first pitch of Recon is also easy after the possibly challenging move through or around the small roof (after that it's like climbing a ladder). It will also help if you or your wife is down below with her, since the first time I climbed at The Wind Tower the creek was high and I could barely hear the commands shouted by my lead climber, leading me to question whether or not I was on belay, and thus put the fear in me that I was pretty much going to die. Obviously now I know how to read signals, I'm more familiar with my climbing partner's voice, commands, tugs, etc., but at the time I was pretty effing terrified. Judge me if you want, I'm just being honest here.

I think I am a more skittish climber than most, so thought I'd balance out the "first time climbers can crush 5.8s" message with a "go easy on her and see how scared she is before you put her on something harder" message.

KBiz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

I agree with Beth above, taking newbies on anything above a 5.5 can be awful for all involved. I spent many seasons teaching skiing & even fairly athletic and balanced people would sometimes panic on runs that were easily within their capabilities - their emotional well being was just as important to safety and success as was actual physical skills and abilities. To us, top roping under a 5.8 may sound like a boring warm up but to a novice, anything where a rope is involved often feels like 'epic climbing'.

I'm not familiar with the mentioned crags but I'd stick with the lowest possible grades, she'll always remember her maiden climb, help her remember it for the right reasons.

darin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 100

The Boulderado. No approach. Scenic enough for someone from out of town, and you can walk in to Boulder Falls on your way back to town.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
darin wrote:The Boulderado. No approach. Scenic enough for someone from out of town, and you can walk in to Boulder Falls on your way back to town.
Ordinarily the Boulderado is quite nice, albeit close to the road. However, I don't think it's getting any sun at all since it's right at the bottom of the canyon.
The routes on the right side of the Riviera are about the same difficulty and should be sunnier and warmer.
The slab route on Dome Rock is also about 5.6 or so and (honestly) very nice and sunny. Afterwards you can throw a TR on Umph for her :-)

Boulder Falls is still closed. Your Mom could probably talk her way out of a ticket if she wants to go for it anyway.
ton · · Salt Lake City · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

I'd give Breezy in Eldo a shot. I've lead it on double ropes, then belayed two followers simultaneously. This allowed one follower to "coach" the less experienced follower as the moved up.

aside from a moderately sketchy walkoff for a newbie, and that it's two pitches...

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410

My husband and I took my dad (age 73) up the 2nd flatiron (freeway) for his first ever technical climb this summer. He is pretty fit (skis 50+ times a season) and enjoys long days out- so we pretty much had to take him multi-pitch. He would have been bummed not to top out on something. He is very comfortable on class 3/4 terrain, but he was still pretty nervous at first. We used double ropes and I just climbed next to him to talk him through things and keep him relaxed. The jump was a little spicy for him and we ended up lowering him.

Multi-pitch wouldn't have been a great choice for a first outing if I hadn't climbed next to him. The very easy climbing was challenging enough and allowed him to enjoy the experience without frustration. Having a 'summit' gave him a goal and added to the feeling of accomplishment for him. There are also endless walk off points on the 2nd if things aren't going well - we promised him he could bail at any time which also helped him relax.

It was a great way to share what we love to do with my dad, oh and did I mention my husband is a saint?

Rob Baumgartner · · Niwot · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 196

There are a few TR's at Nip/Tuck in Boulder Canyon in the 5.4-5.7 range. Great spot for n00bs.

David House · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 453
Scott McMahon wrote: Good recommendation with the exception of that 4th class short section of the approach. I think that might scare a new climber. I still hate going around there with a heavy pack on. I'd recommend the Gregory amphitheater. Short approach, short climbs with super low easy climbing.
Scott: I am totally with you on the approach to the west crack on the Whale's Tail, sketchy for a non-climber. The East Slab on the Whale's Tail starts right off the trail to Wind Tower. You can rap or lower off the top to the north and hike down from the notch pretty easily.

Dan: Post up with the final choice!
Dan Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 40
David Houston wrote: Scott: I am totally with you on the approach to the west crack on the Whale's Tail, sketchy for a non-climber. The East Slab on the Whale's Tail starts right off the trail to Wind Tower. You can rap or lower off the top to the north and hike down from the notch pretty easily. Dan: Post up with the final choice!
Scott McMahon wrote: Good recommendation with the exception of that 4th class short section of the approach. I think that might scare a new climber. I still hate going around there with a heavy pack on. I'd recommend the Gregory amphitheater. Short approach, short climbs with super low easy climbing.
Ladies and gentlemen,

The verdict is in...

First Flatironette!

The plan:

Get a nice hike into the base and little tour of Chautauqua. I'll solo up the Flatironette with a tag line and set up an anchor where gear is good. Do some TR'ing and then I'll climb back to anchor, break it down, then solo to top and walk off.

Thought about Whale's Tale but I think she'd feel better without an audience.

I'll be sure to give a full TR upon completion.

Thanks again! -Dan
The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Mark E Dixon wrote:The Umph Slot on the Dome is only 5.8, nice and sunny, rarely crowded.
As far as I'm concerned , this is what "winning the internet" looks like. Bravo
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "Best crag in Boulder to take my mother in-law?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.