Best cracks in the Red River Gorge

So I’m planning a trip out to WV in October and the Red is definitely on the list. The sport looks amazing, but I must admit that I’m a crack-head at heart. I would like to get a list of the must do cracks. Difficulty is not important; I’m really just looking for the 4 star classics. Any suggestions?

I am prepared to smoke a fat rock with anyone who can provide useful info,

Sam

Do B3 for sure, one of the best routes at the grade anywhere.

Roadside Attraction.

The Long Wall has a lot of nice trad lines, Autumn and Rock Wars being the trade routes. Fortress Wall isn't too far from there either, and has a couple really nice moderate classics (Party Time, Bedtime for Bonzo) in addition to some harder stuff - check out P1 of Where Lizards Dare.

I would also highly recommend Andromeda Strain and Roadside Attraction at Roadside Crag. Roadside Attraction, being moderate, sees a lot of traffic, but Andromeda Strain is nicely tucked away, and I think you could hop on it without waiting. Plenty of great sport climbs at Roadside, as well.

Andromeda strain-9?-Roadside
Five finger discount(more fingers and layback that straight in crack, but awesome)8 Roadside
Jim's Dihedral-10a Indian Creek
Crack Attack-9 Indian Creek-one of the best!!!!!
B3-11? Long wall
Autumn-9 Long Wall
Snake-8 Fortress
Dicey at Best-8 Lower Small wall
Right of Passage-9 Funk Rock City

Thats all i can remember at the moment, but a place to start.

Harder than you husband @Roadside 11b
Arachnid @Tower Rock 8
Rock Wars @ Long Wall 10a
Souders Crack @ Long Wall 11c
Synchronicity @ Roadside 11a

I am a big fan of brontosaurus at pebble beach.
The chossy ramp at the start sucks but the rest of the route is a beautiful left leaning hand crack with the imposing sickness of Welcome to Ol' Kentucky looming a couple of feet away over your right shoulder. Pretty rad!

Go and do "Where Lizards Dare." It's an old school 5.9 that will keep you on your toes.

Most of the cracks mentioned are very good especially B3, Rock Wars and Synchronicity.

None of these even come close to comparing to how awesome Inhibitor is. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned it yet. This climb starts out as overhanging "Indian Creek" like thinhands then moves into a strenuous and heady chimney. Awesome moves coming out of the chimney into splitter, slammer enduro, overhanging hands to the finish. My partner (who climbs 5.13) vomited after toproping this route. You'll be hard pressed to find a better crack pitch anywhere including Indian Creek, Paradise Forks and Yosemite.

Another vote for The Inhibitor! Or make that another ten votes. You can't go to the RRG and not try it! Emphasis on try ; )

I posted this at some point but it seems to have gotten lost. Most of them have been mentioned by now:

Agree with everything that's been mentioned so far. Add: Rock Wars (10a fingers/LB), Brontosaurus (10b), Return of Geoff Beene (10d splitter, fingers crux), Africa (9) and Arachnid (8), Dicey at Best (perfect 8+ OW/LB corner), Jungle Beat (3 pitch 5.9), Sam I Am (10 something corner), Into the Purple Valley (8), Andromeda Strain (10a hand crack corner). That's about all I can think of now - learned to climb there (hence all the easier routes) and haven't been back for years now. Inhibitor, B3, and Synchronicity are definitely the MUST-DO easier 11s, that I recall. Enjoy the red, sure is fun when the humidity is down and it's not raining (i.e. in the fall!).

Since you'll want to go do Rite of Passage, add the following to your Funk Rock list: Cruising Lane, Goodstone, Headstone Surfer, and those long easy 10 face climbs are pretty good too.

Rebar (Solar Collector)
Vertigo (Long Wall, and I think that is the correct name)
EVERYTHING at Indian Creek Wall (the place is aptly named)

Another vote for Autumn and Rock Wars. They are classics. Honestly, the cracks at RRG are pretty dope.

I need to get on Brontosauras...it looks good but always had a tr on it when I was there.

if your in wv, and you like crack climbing, why are you going to the red? i love the crack climbing at the new. there are so many awesome pitches. my favorites are:

new yosemite, celebate mallard, v slot, the entertainer