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best cracks climbed in NC
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By William Rhyne
From clayton, nc
Mar 20, 2012

Whats your favorite/favorites?


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By Adam Paashaus
From North Carolina
Mar 20, 2012
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to the summit for sunset. Its only a 10 minute walk from the main wall. Don't forget your headlamp.

In comparison to many states (WY,CA,UT,CO,AZ etc) We dont have a ton but the ones we have are excellent!
5.5 Great arch at Stone
5.8 Granola at Rumbling Bald it pretty good
5.9 Frosted Flake at Rumbling Bald is excellent (jam it)
9+ The Sperm at Looking Glass 2nd pitch
5.10 The Seal at Looking Glass is one of my all time favorite pitches
5.11 Shredded Wheat at RB

Those are just some of the ones Ive done and there are many more. Many more have cracks but dont necessarily require crack skills.


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By Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Mar 20, 2012
Pit BBQ

I'm going to echo The Seal and Shredded Wheat, both are gorgeous. I'd also add Cornflake Crack (5.11a) to the list, I hear it's fantastic.


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By Rick Carpenter
From Banner Elk, NC
Mar 20, 2012
Dey Took Yer Jeb!!!

Anguish of captain bligh at ship rock


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 20, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!

Cornflake Crack and 2nd pitch of Safari Jive at the Glass.


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By nbrown
From western NC
Mar 20, 2012
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

All of those mentioned are good. How about these... They are from Ghost Town, which is near Rumbling Bald, and are only a very small sample of what we will be able to climb when the CCC and Chimney Rock State Park work out access.




And how about some Linville Gorge action. I just did this one again today actually and must say that it's one of the finest pitches (half a ropelength) I've ever done.


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Mar 21, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

That's just mean.


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By chris_vultaggio
Mar 21, 2012
Chris Vultaggio leads the title route at Five and Dime in Yosemite. <br /> <br />Photo by Bill Roehrich

+1 for Frosted Flake and Shredded Wheat - both pretty sweet cracks, Frosted Flake being easier but a pretty inspiring feature.


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By William Rhyne
From clayton, nc
Mar 21, 2012

Nbrown those are some nice pics. I love that OW where is that climb


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By boo
Mar 21, 2012

nbrown,
Is that last one down, close to the river on the Gold Coast side?


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Mar 21, 2012
El Chorro

A lot of good ones mentioned already. Cornflake Crack and Shredded Wheat are two of my favorites.

Can't believe The Womb hasn't been mentioned yet. Awesome.

Hyperbola w/ the direct start makes for an excellent route, but you get the good crack climbing w/ the travers start as well.

Invisible Airwaves at TNS of LG is also fun.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Mar 21, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

Rick Carpenter wrote:
Anguish of captain bligh at ship rock


That is the face climb next to the awesome crack Harpoon, which is pretty good, but way too short.

Adam, we do have a lot of cracks, just not legal access. I will agree with Nathan, the best cracks are at Ghost Town. Ten'eh (10a), Rugged Crack, Ghost Crack, and Divine are a few of my favorites.

The Womb is phenomenal and so is the Odyssey. Rat's Ass is probably the best moderate crack in the state.


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By William Rhyne
From clayton, nc
Mar 21, 2012

thank you so much guys, cracks have infected my brain and im trying to slot into as many as i can. So whats the deal with ghost town? was it open at one time, when will it open again?


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By Adam Paashaus
From North Carolina
Mar 21, 2012
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to the summit for sunset. Its only a 10 minute walk from the main wall. Don't forget your headlamp.

Tom, I realize that we have a lot of cracks in the state but compared to the states I listed we still have comparatively few cracks that require pure crack climbing. Regardless, I will say that the cracks that Ive been on in this state rival any that Ive been on anywhere in the country! God I love the climbing in NC! I also moved back to NC from Estes Park, CO just after they closed the questionable access at ghost town and am keeping my fingers crossed on the access issue. Ive heard many great things. But hey, theres a few climbs to keep my busy in the meantime.


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By boo
Mar 21, 2012

William Rhyne wrote:
So whats the deal with ghost town? was it open at one time, when will it open again?


Ghost Town is in the boundaries of the newest state park in NC, Chimney Rock State Park. However, the access to the property is privately held. This includes the parking.

The state park has decided to enforce no-climbing in the area, d/t to non-state owned access. (You can search MP's southeast section to see more about it. CCC site too. Lots of documentation.)

Both the CCC and the local regulars continue to work on this. Diligently and persistently. But like so many access issues in NC, and the southeast in general, they take a while. Things either move slowly through bureaucracy or growth of trusted, long-term relationships.

If you have specific questions, you can contact Sean Cobourn, Phil Hoffmann, nbrown, Tim Snyder.....any of these folks will give you more history.

It is a loss. Adam Paashaus is correct. While NC has a selection of wonderful cracks, our geology is inherently different than west of the Appalachians/north of the Piedmont. NC lacks the concentration b/c our rock type is simply different.

But, we do get lovely overhanging quartzite. (:


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By nbrown
From western NC
Mar 21, 2012
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

Sorry for the teasing pictures, but since we were on the subject of cracks, I thought I'd show a few that are only slightly out of our grasp at the moment. There are many more up there as well.

Boo, yes. That was the first route done at what's called the Linville River Crag. It has a long but mellow approach. Backcountry cragging in the at it's best in the gorge, IMO. Below is another one from there that is a bit harder.


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By boo
Mar 22, 2012

Yep, remember that one.

There are really good routes down there.


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By Dr. Rocktopolus
From Chattanooga, TN
Apr 3, 2012
Whipping on the redpoint crux of " The Theater Of Pain " 5.13b Cooks Wall, NC

You need to do shredded wheat Will...


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Apr 3, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

Nathan, is the photo of Tim in the red shirt of Bi-polar Cowboy?


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By nbrown
From western NC
Apr 3, 2012
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

Tom,
Yes, that is correct.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Apr 4, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

Very cool perspective. It took me a while to figure it out. From the bottom, it looks so much different. I don't remember that crack going as high. Probably because the face above is so thin and exciting!


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