Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Best Crack Wall
Select Route:
Best Crack T 
Electric Lightning T 
Joe Cocker's Toe Jam S 

Best Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Hulett and George ..., 1982
Page Views: 1,402
Submitted By: TuFF GonG on Sep 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Best Crack.

Description 

A couple of hard moves off the ground (crux) gain a good finger and hand crack. There are no fixed anchors at the top, walk off right.

Location 

Best Crack can be seen just up and left from the Tiger Wall. Approach 2min.

Protection 

Small nuts to hand-sized cams. A long piece of cord or mid-sized cams will work for an anchor.


Photos of Best Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Best Crack climbs up the obvious splitter in the middle. Surely a right of passage for any Gunny trad. climber that is moving into 5.10.
Best Crack climbs up the obvious splitter in the m...

Comments on Best Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Sep 19, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fixed stopper protects the beginning, you just have to place a quickdraw on there blind. Good stuff. Splitter for Hartman.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
May 21, 2009

Need to get a higher res picture if you have one.

There are 3 lines shown in this picture to the left of Best Crack. I did the 2 furthest left (I think FA's) with John Rosholt in 78 or 79. They were full of spider webs and lots of Hartman's crumbles coming down. Have you guys named or rated those?
By TuFF GonG
From: gunnison Colorado
May 21, 2009

The routes to the left fall into the 5.6/7 range, and because there only crux is right off the ground I have only seen/done them as high-ball boulder problems. There is a sport route just a few feet to the right called Joe Cockers Toe Jam 5.10+ which gains anchors (a route worth doing if you're there).
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
May 21, 2009

Sounds about right, probably seemed harder to me at the time because of all the crap we had to wade through and all the stuff coming down. I'm so glad that you guys are documenting this area. Hartman's was so close that it was always easy to blow off homework and be grinding flesh against that rough rock in mere minutes.
By phil broscovak
May 21, 2009

Fairly sure I led this nice climb in the later '70s. No idea if it was a FA or not but the conditions I saw were exactly as MossMan described, cobwebs and grapple.
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Jan 27, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

No more fixed stopper. This climb is great to practice passive placements, gobbles up hexes and stoppers just like all good granite cracks.
By James Hulett
From: Boulder, Colorado
Apr 23, 2011

First Ascent (also free) done by John Hulett and George in 1982. It was named Best Crack because it was the best hand crack they could find at Hartmans.
By Slade
From: Gunnison
May 3, 2011

This thing is a little tricky down low (but with good feet nonetheless), and I think there's a five foot section in the lower middle that makes this thing considered "Best Crack". The rest is fun as well. (Anyone know what that face bolted route to the right is? - I mean 3 feet to the right. The one that shares the same anchor as Best Crack?)
By matthew lloyd
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Jul 29, 2013

I left a green Black Camalot nut on the top of this route. If you find it, enjoy it. It has been weighted but never fallen on.
By Grayson Stewart
Sep 22, 2014

There are chains on the route now. Just above the stance at the top, climb 10 more feet.