Best Crack 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | John Hulett and George ..., 1982 |
| Submitted By: | TuFF GonG on Sep 13, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Best Crack.
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Description A couple of hard moves off the ground (crux) gain a good finger and hand crack. There are no fixed anchors at the top, walk off right.
Location Best Crack can be seen just up and left from the Tiger Wall. Approach 2min.
Protection Small nuts to hand-sized cams. A long piece of cord or mid-sized cams will work for an anchor.
Best Crack climbs up the obvious splitter in the m...
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By Matt Toensing From: Boulder Sep 19, 2008 rating: 5.10-
| Fixed stopper protects the beginning, you just have to place a quickdraw on there blind. Good stuff. Splitter for Hartman. |
By YDPL8S From: Santa Monica, Ca. May 21, 2009
| Need to get a higher res picture if you have one. There are 3 lines shown in this picture to the left of Best Crack. I did the 2 furthest left (I think FA's) with John Rosholt in 78 or 79. They were full of spider webs and lots of Hartman's crumbles coming down. Have you guys named or rated those? |
By TuFF GonG From: gunnison Colorado May 21, 2009
| The routes to the left fall into the 5.6/7 range, and because there only crux is right off the ground I have only seen/done them as high-ball boulder problems. There is a sport route just a few feet to the right called Joe Cockers Toe Jam 5.10+ which gains anchors (a route worth doing if you're there). |
By YDPL8S From: Santa Monica, Ca. May 21, 2009
| Sounds about right, probably seemed harder to me at the time because of all the crap we had to wade through and all the stuff coming down. I'm so glad that you guys are documenting this area. Hartman's was so close that it was always easy to blow off homework and be grinding flesh against that rough rock in mere minutes. |
By phil broscovak From: Boo-older, Co. May 21, 2009
| Fairly sure I led this nice climb in the later '70s. No idea if it was a FA or not but the conditions I saw were exactly as MossMan described, cobwebs and grapple. |
By Sam Feuerborn From: Durango, CO Jan 27, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| No more fixed stopper. This climb is great to practice passive placements, gobbles up hexes and stoppers just like all good granite cracks. |
By James Hulett From: Boulder, Colorado Apr 23, 2011
| First Ascent (also free) done by John Hulett and George in 1982. It was named Best Crack because it was the best hand crack they could find at Hartmans. |
By Slade From: Gunnison May 3, 2011
| This thing is a little tricky down low (but with good feet nonetheless), and I think there's a five foot section in the lower middle that makes this thing considered "Best Crack". The rest is fun as well. (Anyone know what that face bolted route to the right is? - I mean 3 feet to the right. The one that shares the same anchor as Best Crack?) |
By Will Anglin From: Sykesville, MD May 4, 2011
| The bolted route just to the right is a project, probably .13a-ish. |
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