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Best climbing shoe for Devils Lake? And why?
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Mar 5, 2009
Ok, so I am smarter than you?

My wife wants a baby so bad right now, is it only a matter of time before I too succumb to a fully formed amygdala?

I was fairly satisfied with Evolve Pontas Lace-ups yesterday but I think I got them too big. Fuck.

Socks or no socks?!?!?!?!!?
Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
12,471 points
Administrator
Mar 5, 2009
Good problem.  Photo Baker
Nick Rhoads wrote:
My wife wants a baby so bad right now


Rhodes, take no action at this time. And by this I mean, no action. We have to talk.
Chris treggE
From Madison, WI
Joined May 25, 2007
9,215 points
Administrator
Mar 5, 2009
Good problem.  Photo Baker
How ironic that immediately after posting that, this photo was on the front page. A sign, if you will... Chris treggE
From Madison, WI
Joined May 25, 2007
9,215 points
Administrator
Mar 5, 2009
Pure bliss..
Time to press the red button. Only Jay Knower can help this. Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
589 points
Administrator
Mar 5, 2009
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
Nick Rhoads wrote:
Ok, so I am smarter than you?


I hereby challenge you to an academic decathlon.
Jay Knower
From Campton, NH
Joined Jul 1, 2001
6,048 points
Mar 5, 2009
Jay, name your topics!
I suggest:
"You are 20 ft above your last piece and it's a brassy with a screamer on it, you are 40 ft from the ground."
Do you:
A: Send.
B: Take.
C: Downclimb.
D: Jump.
E: Make your belay jump if you fall.

Chris, don't worry, I haven't gotten "action" for a while, been climbing.
Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
12,471 points
Mar 5, 2009
I'm still swearing by the testarossas. everyone has a different foot and climbs with different footwork. That's the one thing that I've learned. I am curious about the Feroce's though.

And enough of the baby talk guys....
SteveSchultz
Joined May 31, 2006
2,289 points
Administrator
Mar 6, 2009
Good problem.  Photo Baker
Rhoads, do you have the Feroce at Boulders?

Steve- Is the Testerrosa narrow or wide?
Chris treggE
From Madison, WI
Joined May 25, 2007
9,215 points
Mar 6, 2009
Yeah, the feroce is at boulders. And the testarossa is pretty average fit, in my eyes. If anything it may be a bit narrow in the toe box but the laces come down far enough that you can adjust it pretty easily. I like em a lot. SteveSchultz
Joined May 31, 2006
2,289 points
Mar 6, 2009
Breakfast of Champions  Photo by: Mike Lohre
Nick,

Socks in the winter, no socks spring, fall and summer.

And I agree with steve, enough baby talk. You're scaring the rest of us.
John W. Knoernschild
From Wisconsin
Joined Jun 19, 2007
2,882 points
Mar 6, 2009
When my kids grow up to be incredible bad asses they are going to hunt you down like a dog and make you wear Bufo shoes two sizes too big up Acid Rock, on lead. Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
12,471 points
Mar 10, 2009
Breakfast of Champions  Photo by: Mike Lohre
I'll be waiting! John W. Knoernschild
From Wisconsin
Joined Jun 19, 2007
2,882 points
Mar 12, 2009
Wow, amazing how a simple question about shoes can generate all this. I haven't bought a new pair of shoes for a few years, but I'll put a vote in for Five Ten Newtons. I'd agree with Pete that the Mythos have been a popular shoe for a long time (for most everybody except Dave Groth). al grahn
Joined Oct 6, 2008
5 points
Mar 12, 2009
They will beat you to death with your own shoes! Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
12,471 points
Mar 13, 2009
Breakfast of Champions  Photo by: Mike Lohre
Which ones, the Bufos that they made me wear while I pwned Acid Rock, or the new Talons I just got to pwn your face! John W. Knoernschild
From Wisconsin
Joined Jun 19, 2007
2,882 points
Mar 13, 2009
Sorry, you are probably too young to notice that movie reference. Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
12,471 points
Mar 13, 2009
The one and only pink high top kaukalators. duh!! mattso
Joined Jan 23, 2007
70 points
Mar 13, 2009
Breakfast of Champions  Photo by: Mike Lohre
Too young??? I'm almost 27. You can't be more than 30 Rhoads. What movie, I have a poor memory. John W. Knoernschild
From Wisconsin
Joined Jun 19, 2007
2,882 points
Nov 21, 2013
Crimp Scampi 5.10d
So this is obvioulsy an old thread, and I had the same question as Remo but found this in a search.

Since shoes have obviously changed in the last 4 years, what are you all climbing in now on the DL routes? Xmas is coming soon...
Austin Pethan
From Madison, WI
Joined Mar 25, 2012
57 points
Nov 21, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
Anasazi Blanco/Verde/VCS for routes. Dragons for bouldering. Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,618 points
Nov 21, 2013
hi
Scarpa Force. The red pair with the lorica toe box. The best at edging at the lake. jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Joined Apr 24, 2006
1,242 points
Nov 29, 2013
Beautiful line at Devil's Lake
I like the stiffness and edging ability of the Galileo for climbs of the vertical nature and something downturned like the Dragon/Blackwing for when I'm bouldering on overhung blocks. Skyler F.
From La Crosse, WI
Joined Jul 9, 2009
580 points
Nov 29, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
the stickiest rubber you can find, on shoes that will edge really well on tiny dime sized edges . Not much smearing gonna happen or slab climbing. A high top would be smart, alot of crack climbing, jamming gonna be happening. Total toe covered in rubber is best. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,091 points
Nov 29, 2013
Rainier
I'm surprised there isn't a mention for the 5.10 Rock Wrench in the thread, so I will endorse.* The edge really well and yes you can actually smear with them but to smear does take some getting used to, but who smears at DL anyway? =)

  • I have never bought a new pair of shoes, I always buy the $5 shoes when the gym sells off the lost & found. I understand that sizing rock wrenches can be a real pain but mine were already broken in and awesome.

I own a whole bunch of shoes cause I get them for cheap and the rock wrenches are what I always take to DL. If I climb the sandstone areas I often use Scarpa Vapors.
Andy P.
From Wisconsin
Joined Apr 20, 2013
57 points
Nov 30, 2013
Crimp Scampi 5.10d
Woodchuck, what shoes were you referring to? Austin Pethan
From Madison, WI
Joined Mar 25, 2012
57 points


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