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Best climbing shoe for Devils Lake? And why?
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By Tradoholic
Mar 5, 2009
Ok, so I am smarter than you?

My wife wants a baby so bad right now, is it only a matter of time before I too succumb to a fully formed amygdala?

I was fairly satisfied with Evolve Pontas Lace-ups yesterday but I think I got them too big. Fuck.

Socks or no socks?!?!?!?!!?

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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Mar 5, 2009
Egghead
Nick Rhoads wrote:
My wife wants a baby so bad right now


Rhodes, take no action at this time. And by this I mean, no action. We have to talk.

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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Mar 5, 2009
Egghead
How ironic that immediately after posting that, this photo was on the front page. A sign, if you will...

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Mar 5, 2009
Yoda
Time to press the red button. Only Jay Knower can help this.

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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Mar 5, 2009
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
Nick Rhoads wrote:
Ok, so I am smarter than you?


I hereby challenge you to an academic decathlon.

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By Tradoholic
Mar 5, 2009
Jay, name your topics!
I suggest:
"You are 20 ft above your last piece and it's a brassy with a screamer on it, you are 40 ft from the ground."
Do you:
A: Send.
B: Take.
C: Downclimb.
D: Jump.
E: Make your belay jump if you fall.

Chris, don't worry, I haven't gotten "action" for a while, been climbing.

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By SteveSchultz
Mar 5, 2009
I'm still swearing by the testarossas. everyone has a different foot and climbs with different footwork. That's the one thing that I've learned. I am curious about the Feroce's though.

And enough of the baby talk guys....

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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Mar 6, 2009
Egghead
Rhoads, do you have the Feroce at Boulders?

Steve- Is the Testerrosa narrow or wide?

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By SteveSchultz
Mar 6, 2009
Yeah, the feroce is at boulders. And the testarossa is pretty average fit, in my eyes. If anything it may be a bit narrow in the toe box but the laces come down far enough that you can adjust it pretty easily. I like em a lot.

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By John W. Knoernschild
From Wisconsin
Mar 6, 2009
Breakfast of Champions <br /> <br />Photo by: Mike Lohre
Nick,

Socks in the winter, no socks spring, fall and summer.

And I agree with steve, enough baby talk. You're scaring the rest of us.

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By Tradoholic
Mar 6, 2009
When my kids grow up to be incredible bad asses they are going to hunt you down like a dog and make you wear Bufo shoes two sizes too big up Acid Rock, on lead.

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By John W. Knoernschild
From Wisconsin
Mar 10, 2009
Breakfast of Champions <br /> <br />Photo by: Mike Lohre
I'll be waiting!

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By al grahn
Mar 12, 2009
Wow, amazing how a simple question about shoes can generate all this. I haven't bought a new pair of shoes for a few years, but I'll put a vote in for Five Ten Newtons. I'd agree with Pete that the Mythos have been a popular shoe for a long time (for most everybody except Dave Groth).

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By Tradoholic
Mar 12, 2009
They will beat you to death with your own shoes!

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By John W. Knoernschild
From Wisconsin
Mar 13, 2009
Breakfast of Champions <br /> <br />Photo by: Mike Lohre
Which ones, the Bufos that they made me wear while I pwned Acid Rock, or the new Talons I just got to pwn your face!

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By Tradoholic
Mar 13, 2009
Sorry, you are probably too young to notice that movie reference.

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By mattso
Mar 13, 2009
The one and only pink high top kaukalators. duh!!

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By John W. Knoernschild
From Wisconsin
Mar 13, 2009
Breakfast of Champions <br /> <br />Photo by: Mike Lohre
Too young??? I'm almost 27. You can't be more than 30 Rhoads. What movie, I have a poor memory.

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By Austin Pethan
From Madison, WI
Nov 21, 2013
Crimp Scampi 5.10d
So this is obvioulsy an old thread, and I had the same question as Remo but found this in a search.

Since shoes have obviously changed in the last 4 years, what are you all climbing in now on the DL routes? Xmas is coming soon...

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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Nov 21, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
Anasazi Blanco/Verde/VCS for routes. Dragons for bouldering.

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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Nov 21, 2013
hi
Scarpa Force. The red pair with the lorica toe box. The best at edging at the lake.

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By Skyler F.
From La Crosse, WI
Nov 29, 2013
Beautiful line at Devil's Lake
I like the stiffness and edging ability of the Galileo for climbs of the vertical nature and something downturned like the Dragon/Blackwing for when I'm bouldering on overhung blocks.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 29, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
the stickiest rubber you can find, on shoes that will edge really well on tiny dime sized edges . Not much smearing gonna happen or slab climbing. A high top would be smart, alot of crack climbing, jamming gonna be happening. Total toe covered in rubber is best.

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By Andy P.
From Wisconsin
Nov 29, 2013
Rainier
I'm surprised there isn't a mention for the 5.10 Rock Wrench in the thread, so I will endorse.* The edge really well and yes you can actually smear with them but to smear does take some getting used to, but who smears at DL anyway? =)

  • I have never bought a new pair of shoes, I always buy the $5 shoes when the gym sells off the lost & found. I understand that sizing rock wrenches can be a real pain but mine were already broken in and awesome.

I own a whole bunch of shoes cause I get them for cheap and the rock wrenches are what I always take to DL. If I climb the sandstone areas I often use Scarpa Vapors.

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By Austin Pethan
From Madison, WI
Nov 30, 2013
Crimp Scampi 5.10d
Woodchuck, what shoes were you referring to?

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