By Ryan Nevius From San Luis Obispo, CA Nov 29, 2011
| What's the best completely trad route you have done using a single set of nuts for pro? For me, The Lieback fits the bill. What say you? |  FLAG |
By Shralpine From boulder, co Nov 29, 2011
| positively fourth street, eldo |  FLAG |
By Brian in SLC From Salt Lake City, UT Nov 29, 2011
| I led the Stur Chimney on Mount Heyburn in the Sawtooths with a set of 5 hexes. Was wishin' for a cam or two! |  FLAG |
By Evan Sanders From Westminster, CO Nov 29, 2011
| Mostly single pitch routes that aren't even worth mentioning. |  FLAG |
By Richard Shore Nov 29, 2011
| Mental Physics 5.7 - Joshua Tree, CA Ending Crack 5.7 & Tree Route 5.5 - Sespe Gorge, CA |  FLAG |
By Scott O From NC Nov 29, 2011
| The crux pitch of Second Coming at Looking Glass. I had cams with me, but the nut placements were so good that I didn't feel like placing anything else. |  FLAG |
By Matt N From Santa Barbara, CA Nov 29, 2011
| I lead ALL my routes with only a pair of nuts. |  FLAG |
By James Otey From NH Nov 29, 2011
| Matt N wrote: I lead ALL my routes with only a pair of nuts. Damn you just beat me to it.... |  FLAG |
By Ryan Williams Administrator From London (sort of) Nov 29, 2011
| Burning calves is one I remember, at the new. Probably others but not as good. It was only 80 feet but very good. |  FLAG |
By bearbreeder Nov 29, 2011
| kangaroo corner in squamish ... takes perfect micronuts ... easy 11a or so ... i use 6 cause im chicken ... in reality you likely only need 3 ... |  FLAG |
By Tony B From Around Boulder, CO Nov 29, 2011
| Disappearing Act in Eldo. But I wouldn't recommend it without some caution... |  FLAG |
By Charles Vernon From Florence, AZ Nov 29, 2011
| As mentioned above, the Yellow Spur goes well on a set of nuts to supplement the fixed pins. The only tricky part seemed to be the belay below the crux pitch. Although technically one of the most difficult pitches I've successfully led, the J Crack headwall goes easily on all nuts. I had cams with me but didn't place any simply because the crack takes nuts so well, and without blocking the tips locks. The entire route would be a good candidate to do safely on nuts, though a couple of sets would be nice for the long second pitch. Lumpy in general is a great place to do this kind of thing. In general the routes take nuts better than any area I've climbed at. |  FLAG |
By Colonel Mustard From Reno, NV Nov 29, 2011
| No idea. Why? Do you get extra trad carbon credits? |  FLAG |
By Jake Jones From The Eastern Flatlands Nov 29, 2011
| Matt N wrote: I lead ALL my routes with only a pair of nuts. I've been holding that back all day haha. |  FLAG |
By prod. From Boulder, Co Nov 29, 2011
| Curving Crack in Boulder Canyon. Prod. |  FLAG |
By Jeremy Bauman From Lakewood, CO Nov 30, 2011
| I used only 4 nuts on Crazy Alice at the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. Though I also had cams with me so i suppose I lose some style points. |  FLAG |
By smassey From CO Nov 30, 2011
| The trail to the Gallery, RR... |  FLAG |
By Caleb Padgett From Rockville, utah Nov 30, 2011
| The Nutcracker, Yosemite valley knowing the history I just had to climb it with stoppers. I actually had like 2 sets of nuts and a couple hexes, fun and though provoking climbing. |  FLAG |
By Dan Carter From 1986 Spacecruiser in Space Nov 30, 2011
| 3rd/4th pitch of Wasteland in Cochise Stronghold. The pitch is full of alligator skin plates that eat up bomber nuts. And then it ends with a belay from huge chicken heads. So exposed and so fun. |  FLAG |
By Brian Abram From Columbia, SC Nov 30, 2011
| Scott O wrote: The crux pitch of Second Coming at Looking Glass. I had cams with me, but the nut placements were so good that I didn't feel like placing anything else. With all due respect, Rat's Ass next door is even better, and is great for climbing with just a rack of Stoppers. =) Regardless, The Mummy in Linville Gorge gets my vote. |  FLAG |
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