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Best climb you've done on a single set of nuts?
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Nov 29, 2011
Mt. Agassiz
What's the best completely trad route you have done using a single set of nuts for pro? For me, The Lieback fits the bill. What say you? Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
781 points
Nov 29, 2011
officer friendly
positively fourth street, eldo mt.wilson
From Denver
Joined Jun 8, 2009
64 points
Administrator
Nov 29, 2011
Belay
Exasperator in Squamish. Peter Franzen
From Phoenix, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
4,021 points
Nov 29, 2011
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The second pitch of Emerald City. I think i placed a full set of nuts on this one. Scott Jones
From boulder, co
Joined Sep 9, 2010
22 points
Nov 29, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
I led the Stur Chimney on Mount Heyburn in the Sawtooths with a set of 5 hexes.

Was wishin' for a cam or two!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Nov 29, 2011
Flaming Pumpkin
Mostly single pitch routes that aren't even worth mentioning. Evan Sanders
From Westminster, CO
Joined Dec 10, 2010
145 points
Nov 29, 2011
Yellow Spur. With all of the fixed pins it goes nicely. Nate Sydnor
Joined Mar 16, 2007
48 points
Nov 29, 2011
Eichorns Pinnacle
Mental Physics 5.7 - Joshua Tree, CA

Ending Crack 5.7 & Tree Route 5.5 - Sespe Gorge, CA
Richard Shore
Joined Aug 17, 2009
4,364 points
Nov 29, 2011
Batman Pinnacle
The crux pitch of Second Coming at Looking Glass.

I had cams with me, but the nut placements were so good that I didn't feel like placing anything else.
Scott O
From California
Joined Mar 30, 2010
26 points
Nov 29, 2011
OTL
I lead ALL my routes with only a pair of nuts. Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
345 points
Nov 29, 2011
Urban Surfer, Rumney.  Photo by Lee Hansche
Matt N wrote:
I lead ALL my routes with only a pair of nuts.


Damn you just beat me to it....
James Otey
From NH
Joined Mar 30, 2007
918 points
Nov 29, 2011
!!!
jcrack@lumpy Tim Hosbach
From Breckeridge,CO
Joined Feb 5, 2008
60 points
Nov 29, 2011
Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.
Mainliner at Lumpy... Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 15, 2011
152 points
Administrator
Nov 29, 2011
El Chorro
Burning calves is one I remember, at the new. Probably others but not as good. It was only 80 feet but very good. Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Nov 29, 2011
kangaroo corner in squamish ... takes perfect micronuts ... easy 11a or so ... i use 6 cause im chicken ... in reality you likely only need 3 ... bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,053 points
Nov 29, 2011
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Disappearing Act in Eldo. But I wouldn't recommend it without some caution... Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,502 points
Nov 29, 2011
As mentioned above, the Yellow Spur goes well on a set of nuts to supplement the fixed pins. The only tricky part seemed to be the belay below the crux pitch.

Although technically one of the most difficult pitches I've successfully led, the J Crack headwall goes easily on all nuts. I had cams with me but didn't place any simply because the crack takes nuts so well, and without blocking the tips locks. The entire route would be a good candidate to do safely on nuts, though a couple of sets would be nice for the long second pitch.

Lumpy in general is a great place to do this kind of thing. In general the routes take nuts better than any area I've climbed at.
Charles Vernon
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,922 points
Nov 29, 2011
Colonel Mustard
No idea. Why? Do you get extra trad carbon credits? Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,380 points
Nov 29, 2011
Curving Crack in Boulder Canyon.

Prod.
prod.
From Boulder, Co
Joined Nov 29, 2008
52 points
Nov 30, 2011
My buddy Andy and I making the best of the day aft...
I used only 4 nuts on Crazy Alice at the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. Though I also had cams with me so i suppose I lose some style points. Jeremy Bauman
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Feb 11, 2009
734 points
Nov 30, 2011
The trail to the Gallery, RR... smassey
From CO
Joined Dec 2, 2008
345 points
Nov 30, 2011
The Nutcracker, Yosemite valley

knowing the history I just had to climb it with stoppers. I actually had like 2 sets of nuts and a couple hexes, fun and though provoking climbing.
Caleb Padgett
From Rockville, utah
Joined Feb 20, 2008
103 points
Nov 30, 2011
3rd/4th pitch of Wasteland in Cochise Stronghold. The pitch is full of alligator skin plates that eat up bomber nuts. And then it ends with a belay from huge chicken heads. So exposed and so fun. Dan Carter
From Las Cruces, NM
Joined Jan 29, 2008
284 points
Nov 30, 2011
Scott O wrote:
The crux pitch of Second Coming at Looking Glass. I had cams with me, but the nut placements were so good that I didn't feel like placing anything else.


With all due respect, Rat's Ass next door is even better, and is great for climbing with just a rack of Stoppers. =)

Regardless, The Mummy in Linville Gorge gets my vote.
Brian Abram
From Celo, NC
Joined Oct 17, 2007
55 points
Nov 30, 2011
The route in it's entirety.
The Green Adjective in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
580 points
Nov 30, 2011
I was gonna say green A. Also The Coffin in LCC. Courtney Pace
Joined Mar 18, 2010
139 points


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