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Best climb you've done on a single set of nuts?
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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Nov 29, 2011
Mt. Agassiz

What's the best completely trad route you have done using a single set of nuts for pro? For me, The Lieback fits the bill. What say you?


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By Shralpine
From boulder, co
Nov 29, 2011
one of the 5.10 pitches on pervertical

positively fourth street, eldo


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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
Nov 29, 2011
Belay

Exasperator in Squamish.


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By Scott Jones
From boulder, co
Nov 29, 2011
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The second pitch of Emerald City. I think i placed a full set of nuts on this one.


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By Brian in SLC
Nov 29, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

I led the Stur Chimney on Mount Heyburn in the Sawtooths with a set of 5 hexes.

Was wishin' for a cam or two!


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By Evan Sanders
From Westminster, CO
Nov 29, 2011
Flaming Pumpkin

Mostly single pitch routes that aren't even worth mentioning.


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By Nate Sydnor
Nov 29, 2011

Yellow Spur. With all of the fixed pins it goes nicely.


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By Richard Shore
Nov 29, 2011
Eichorns Pinnacle

Mental Physics 5.7 - Joshua Tree, CA

Ending Crack 5.7 & Tree Route 5.5 - Sespe Gorge, CA


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By Scott O
From California
Nov 29, 2011
Batman Pinnacle

The crux pitch of Second Coming at Looking Glass.

I had cams with me, but the nut placements were so good that I didn't feel like placing anything else.


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 29, 2011
OTL

I lead ALL my routes with only a pair of nuts.


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By James Otey
From NH
Nov 29, 2011
Urban Surfer, Rumney. <br /> <br />Photo by Lee Hansche

Matt N wrote:
I lead ALL my routes with only a pair of nuts.


Damn you just beat me to it....


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By Tim Hosbach
From Breckeridge,CO
Nov 29, 2011
!!!

jcrack@lumpy


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By Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Nov 29, 2011
Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.

Mainliner at Lumpy...


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 29, 2011
El Chorro

Burning calves is one I remember, at the new. Probably others but not as good. It was only 80 feet but very good.


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By bearbreeder
Nov 29, 2011

kangaroo corner in squamish ... takes perfect micronuts ... easy 11a or so ... i use 6 cause im chicken ... in reality you likely only need 3 ...


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2011
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Disappearing Act in Eldo. But I wouldn't recommend it without some caution...


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By Charles Vernon
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 29, 2011

As mentioned above, the Yellow Spur goes well on a set of nuts to supplement the fixed pins. The only tricky part seemed to be the belay below the crux pitch.

Although technically one of the most difficult pitches I've successfully led, the J Crack headwall goes easily on all nuts. I had cams with me but didn't place any simply because the crack takes nuts so well, and without blocking the tips locks. The entire route would be a good candidate to do safely on nuts, though a couple of sets would be nice for the long second pitch.

Lumpy in general is a great place to do this kind of thing. In general the routes take nuts better than any area I've climbed at.


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Nov 29, 2011
Colonel Mustard

No idea. Why? Do you get extra trad carbon credits?


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By prod.
From Boulder, Co
Nov 29, 2011

Curving Crack in Boulder Canyon.

Prod.


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By Jeremy Bauman
From Lakewood, CO
Nov 30, 2011
Climbing the headwall of Second Comming

I used only 4 nuts on Crazy Alice at the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. Though I also had cams with me so i suppose I lose some style points.


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By smassey
From CO
Nov 30, 2011

The trail to the Gallery, RR...


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By Caleb Padgett
From Rockville, utah
Nov 30, 2011

The Nutcracker, Yosemite valley

knowing the history I just had to climb it with stoppers. I actually had like 2 sets of nuts and a couple hexes, fun and though provoking climbing.


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By Dan Carter
From Las Cruces, NM
Nov 30, 2011

3rd/4th pitch of Wasteland in Cochise Stronghold. The pitch is full of alligator skin plates that eat up bomber nuts. And then it ends with a belay from huge chicken heads. So exposed and so fun.


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By Brian Abram
From Columbia, SC
Nov 30, 2011
Brian Abram, leading pitch 2 of Dinkus Dog on the South Side of Looking Glass.  Kyle Sox is belaying.

Scott O wrote:
The crux pitch of Second Coming at Looking Glass. I had cams with me, but the nut placements were so good that I didn't feel like placing anything else.


With all due respect, Rat's Ass next door is even better, and is great for climbing with just a rack of Stoppers. =)

Regardless, The Mummy in Linville Gorge gets my vote.


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Nov 30, 2011
The route in it's entirety.

The Green Adjective in Little Cottonwood Canyon.


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By Courtney Pace
Nov 30, 2011

I was gonna say green A. Also The Coffin in LCC.


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