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Best Biner For Racking Nuts?
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Sep 12, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.
I've settled on bentgates...mainly bc they seem to hold the nuts well and are easy to flip and re-rack. Tried wiregates but found the spring tension too weak.

Thoughts?
Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 15, 2011
257 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Clear Creek Canyon, Capitalist Crag
I like Ovals because they have plenty of room for lots of nuts. Robert Buswold
From Longmont, CO
Joined Jul 5, 2010
100 points
Sep 13, 2011
Whatever you settle on keylock is the only way to go....getting the wire of the nut stuck on the nose of the biner isn't fun.

media.rei.com/media/198490.jpg (

I use these the Mammut Element Key Lock.
rei.com/product/760240/mammut-...
wankel7
From Indiana
Joined Oct 4, 2010
17 points
Sep 13, 2011
I like ovals and they like my nuts too J.J
Joined Aug 23, 2008
185 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Estes Park Yart
One that the gate stays closed. Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
201 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: preparing to rap over a crevasse; Mt. Waddington, ...
Wild Country Helium: campsaver.com/helium-clean-wir... OReid
From Denver, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2010
40 points
Sep 13, 2011
Racking nuts is actually the one time I prefer a non-keylock. Having the hook at the nose of the biner has, on many occasions, saved be from dropping a nut by having ti slide off of the biner.

I like the BD ovalwires.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
65 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: It is pumpy up there. Kristoff taking the whip.
DMM shield Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,384 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: OTL
BD ovalwire and OP Doval. The Doval is a little more compact and lighter.

How is everyone racking theirs? Full set per; small-med separate; etc?
Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
492 points
Sep 13, 2011
Petzl Owall, easy choice. Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Apr 15, 2010
403 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Me.
Petzl Spirit. Micros on one, the rest on the other. Jonathan Williams
From Minneapolis
Joined Mar 4, 2007
1,258 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Top half of Melifluous
BD Ovalwire Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
840 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Greenhorn - Solar Collector Wall - RRG, KY
I'm with Bud, the Petzl Owall hands down. But in general a keylock nose oval is the way to go as others have said. If you don't like the price, check out DMM or Mad Rock's (I use this for RPs and it's great) keylock oval offerings. Greg Kuchyt
From Richmond, VT
Joined Apr 29, 2009
968 points
Sep 13, 2011
I would go Ovalwire for easy of use or Nano for lightweight. DannyUncanny
From Vancouver
Joined Aug 27, 2010
78 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Sign near the Third Flatiron
The BD Ovals are heavy, but they make selecting a nut and getting it from the biner very easy. Haven't tried other ovals, but i'm sure they're also good.

Ovals work better than any other shape I've tried.
Chris D
From the couch
Joined Apr 14, 2009
2,323 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Birds and Beards
DMM Ovals are the best i've found.

They're a bit bigger than bd ovals and are keynose to boot. I use them for my nuts and pins.
Rock Climbing Photo: DMM Oval
DMM Oval
kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
Joined Jan 14, 2007
304 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...
My bail biner, whatever that may be. In the end I can strip all the nuts off of it onto a spare or whatever and use it, but meanwhile I have a bail biner with me. Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
24,498 points
Sep 13, 2011
Haven't trad climbed a ton, but have them on a wire gate oval. I've grown accustomed to the asymmetric biners on quickdraws, so I actually find ovals a little annoying because I can't tell at a glance or by feel which way the gate opens. JaredG
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Aug 16, 2011
0 points
Sep 13, 2011
From what trad climbing I've done, I've used ovals. There's plenty of room, you can rotate the biner in your hand pretty easy to get at whichever nut you want. As to the forgetting which side the biner opens on, if you clip your gear on facing the same way everytime there's no issue with that whatsoever. Nick Bouley
Joined Apr 19, 2011
1 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: My kinda simian
Greg Kuchyt wrote:
I'm with Bud, the Petzl Owall hands down.


The Owall is the heaviest damn biner that I've ever felt and it's nothing more than an overpriced oval with a keylock and a lot of deadweight. I keep one on hand when in bear country in-case I need to defend myself.
Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch three of Land of the Lost (WI4) Hylite Cyn. ...
kevin deweese wrote:
DMM Ovals are the best i've found. They're a bit bigger than bd ovals and are keynose to boot. I use them for my nuts and pins.


+1
Sweet for an aid'n setup as well.
NKunstek
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Jun 20, 2010
7 points
Sep 13, 2011
Nick Bouley wrote:
From what trad climbing I've done, I've used ovals. There's plenty of room, you can rotate the biner in your hand pretty easy to get at whichever nut you want. As to the forgetting which side the biner opens on, if you clip your gear on facing the same way everytime there's no issue with that whatsoever.


Good point. I usually climb scared, though. When I'm sketched out above a poorly-placed cam with a mouth full of nut wires, trying 3 different nuts before I find one that fits, I sometimes forget which side of the biner is which.
JaredG
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Aug 16, 2011
0 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Near Sky Pong Below Taylor Peak
I use the wire oval that came with my BD nuts. I actually bought a proton solid gate that was keylock obviously, due to some peoples suggestions.

This was a few months ago, and after dropping a nut here and there due to the change, and then missing a clip back onto my harness (Gumby alert) I switched back to the wire oval.
ZANE
From Cleveland, OH
Joined May 6, 2011
43 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Chillin' at City of Rocks
Oval....... Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
459 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
I use a Umert Leadmaster Mark IV oval with the neon yellow finish. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,599 points
Sep 13, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: summit of the North Sister
you guys are putting way too much thought into this. Paul Irby
From moab, ut
Joined Jan 22, 2010
162 points


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