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Best Approach For Gash Couloir?
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Jan 15, 2014
twin cracks
So I'm heading to the Gash Couloir on Blanca Peak in March or April and am curious of what the best way to get to the route is.

I currently have this photo for a reference
H. Valley.
H. Valley.


At first glance it seems that it would be best to go far right and traverse back over but I am wondering if there is some kind of hidden runnel that would save a bit of time.

Thank you,

Kerr
Kerr Adams
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Nov 12, 2010
101 points
Jan 16, 2014
Looks like you probably want the Lilly Lakes approach.

Here's a 3D model of Blanca: 14ers.com/flash/3dorbits/showo...
Joshua Payne
From Los Alamos, NM
Joined May 20, 2013
58 points
Administrator
Jan 16, 2014
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
Can't you see this thing from the top of Silverton? It looks amazing... if this is the same one. Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,415 points
Jan 17, 2014
twin cracks
I have the general approach, more interested in the best way to get to the base of the route Kerr Adams
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Nov 12, 2010
101 points
Jan 17, 2014
Rapping off of South Six Shooter.
I think your best bet is to take the Lilly Lake approach. Follow the Lilly Lake trail for a few miles while it meanders up into the basin (S/SW) and gains some altitude. There is an obvious point in the trail where it starts to head N/NW and up to Lily Lake. At this point you leave the trail basically bushwack and talus up up to the base of the actual cliffs. You can get a good view of the rest of the approach from here as well since you will be standing in a bit of a clearing. I believe you should be able to follow this all the way around to the gash. There isn't a trail past the point where you turn off.

I haven't climbed the gash but we attempted Ormes Buttress last summer and this is how we went. It was pretty straight forward, albeit a slog across the talus. In March/April you will want to watch the snow slopes when crossing what was talus when we were there in August. They aren't too steep, but steep enough to slide and if you took a ride it would take you right through some sizable cliff bands. That is my two cents anyway.

There may be a way up through some of the cliff bands without traversing all the way across, but they would be quite steep I think. And you might start running into mixed terrain real quick, but that is just an assumption. The problem is that you could possibly spend a lot of time trying to find a good/safe way through them.
James Hicks
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined May 16, 2012
36 points
Jan 17, 2014
Rapping off of South Six Shooter.
Morgan Patterson wrote:
Can't you see this thing from the top of Silverton? It looks amazing... if this is the same one.



This is Gash Couloir on Blanca, nowhere near Silverton.
James Hicks
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined May 16, 2012
36 points
Administrator
Jan 17, 2014
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
sorry i was thinking the Gnar Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,415 points
Jan 17, 2014
twin cracks
Thanks for the reply everyone. Someone who has done it contacted me and there is a hidden 55 degree couloir in the rock band below the face that leads right up to the climb. Kerr Adams
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Nov 12, 2010
101 points
Jan 17, 2014
Rapping off of South Six Shooter.
Kerr Adams wrote:
Thanks for the reply everyone. Someone who has done it contacted me and there is a hidden 55 degree couloir in the rock band below the face that leads right up to the climb.



Oh, that is awesome to know! If you get up there could you post a pic to the MP page as to its location? I was considering giving it a run this spring as well, and I like your idea much more than mine haha.
James Hicks
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined May 16, 2012
36 points
Jan 31, 2014
twin cracks
I sure can! Kerr Adams
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Nov 12, 2010
101 points


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