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best alpine/ice boot
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Apr 9, 2011
It's ok...you'll be able to ski soon.
Hi, I'm moving to Bozeman from Jackson Hole...I'm looking to buy a really good boot for waterfall ice but also for alpine snow/ice days. I have a wide foot with a sixth toe to "boot".

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
athan
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Apr 7, 2010
10 points
Apr 9, 2011
summit of Mt. Washington, NH
not sure how they would fit your feet, but i LOVE my La Sportiva Nepals (aka "Rasta Boot). also pretty easy to find them used / cheap. i got mine for $150, used twice. they looked / felt brand new!

just make sure you put your name on them since it seems everybody (at least in the NE) has a pair.
JBaker
From Belmont, MA
Joined Aug 25, 2010
32 points
Apr 9, 2011
Forest fires seen from the top of the Grand. I thi...
I don't own either, but I recall hearing that the La Sportiva Nepal Evo's and the Scarpa Mont Blanc are fairly similar but the Scarpas are better fitting for a wider foot. Something to look into. Steve0
Joined Mar 21, 2010
22 points
Apr 9, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
It's going to be all about fit. I like the ls trango extreme evos but they're not very wide. Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Apr 9, 2011
I love my Scarpa Cerro Torre XT's. I need a wide toebox and
Scarpas seem to do this great. They have other boots too--
check them out.
Good luck!
Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2005
61 points
Apr 9, 2011
Attempting the Serrator... didn't go well
+1 for the nepal evos. I have had mine for 3 seasons, and they are the most comfortable boot I have ever owned. just the right amount of flex in the last to walk very comfortably, but with a solid crampons they climb the steep stuff great. not the lightest boot on the market, but they are very warm. just make sure that your crampons fit them, because they have a rocker-ed sole that doesn't play well with older flat crampons in my experience. Jason S.
From Durango, Co
Joined Apr 30, 2010
168 points
Apr 9, 2011
Mean Green P2
Go to Northern Lights and ask about boots. They don't have a big selection, but they have a guy in town who you can make an appointment with who has a wide selection that you can try on. I became frustrated buying boots on sale from the internet that never quite fit right. The only way to really know is to get the right boot fitted to your feet (at least for the first time). I ended up with the La Sportiva Nepal EVOs, but I have narrow feet. Your other option is to check out some stores in Seattle or Portland if you ever head that way. jack s.
From Kamloops, BC
Joined Jan 11, 2011
12 points
Apr 9, 2011
I have the Trango Extreme's whoch are a perfect Hyalite/alpine boot, but they are a little narrow for my wider feet. If I could do it again I would go for the Scarpa Mont Blancs. Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Apr 15, 2010
403 points
Apr 10, 2011
It's ok...you'll be able to ski soon.
JBaker wrote:
not sure how they would fit your feet, but i LOVE my La Sportiva Nepals (aka "Rasta Boot). also pretty easy to find them used / cheap. i got mine for $150, used twice. they looked / felt brand new! just make sure you put your name on them since it seems everybody (at least in the NE) has a pair.


Baker, I grew up in Topsfield just a stone's throw away...what are you still doing there? Pssst...here's a little known secret, There are huge mtns to climb/ski out west...and the weather is 100xs better than New England's costal freeze.
athan
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Apr 7, 2010
10 points
Apr 10, 2011
It's ok...you'll be able to ski soon.
Thanks people...I'll look into both Nepal and Scarpa. athan
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Apr 7, 2010
10 points
Apr 10, 2011
I've really been liking the Kayland Hyper Traction this winter. They are my favorite ice boot to date and comfy enough for multi-day use. G Owings
Joined Jan 14, 2011
0 points
Apr 11, 2011
Cham '11
The one that fits :-)

But I have a friend who has extremely wide feet. The guy looks like he has a set of duck's feet, seriously. La Sportivas run pretty narrow generally but he loves his Baturas. I always wondered how he managed that fit until I took a look at his boots. He gets the front half stretched out to fit his for-foot and then doesn't use the front couple of laces. The over gaiter takes care of the rest. He puts in something like 100 days a winter/spring/fall on ice or in the alpine climbing and guiding. All that in a boot I would never have suggested would fit his feet. He's on his second pair.
Dane
Joined Jun 18, 2008
580 points
Apr 11, 2011
Ancient Art, UT
+1 for Sportivas for people with duck feet.

I have very wide feet and found that the Evo's were the only boots that fit my brick feet. Also tried on the Baturas and liked them alot too just was not a bit fan of the zipper/gaiter thing.
danny m
From All over
Joined Oct 6, 2009
151 points
Apr 13, 2011
Nice view
I have wider feet and I fit Scarpa better. I haven't bought any other boot for a while now. I have Scarpa tele, AT, climbing shoes, plastic boots, and hiking boots and they all fit great. They just fit wider feet better! Owen Darrow
From Garmisch,
Joined Feb 22, 2010
1,933 points
Apr 13, 2011
I just spent a season in Hyalite climbing on trango extremes. The boots performed ok, the lack of ankle support was frustrating, as well as the lack of warmth. My feet were cold even on mild days, however that could be a circulation problem, I dont know...

A month ago I opted to step it up to a double boot! I picked up the Baruntse. Ive been out on them twice and cant belive the difference. Not only in warmth, but the support is priceless, especially on skis. I plan on keeping the extremes for mixed with short approaches ONLY. Beyond that, its all about the doubles.

They are a heavier boot, however I dont really seem to notice...
Matt J
From Bozeman, Montana
Joined May 26, 2010
26 points
Apr 13, 2011
There is a little ice in there!
Just ordered a pair of Boreal Kangri's. They came highly recommended. I let you guys know how they perform. They also have a more specific ice boot the Cerro Torres and the G1 Lite is the big mountain bad boy. Mountain Tools are about the only place that sell them in the States. Their web site kind of sucks but the staff was very helpful if you call. Curt Nelson
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Oct 3, 2006
470 points
Apr 13, 2011
Cham '11
Boreal? Quality and service directly from Boreal has been spectacular for me. I have a pair of Ice Mutants that are stellar. I'll be interested in hearing what you think of the other "ice specific" boots. I tried on the Cerro Torre, the Kangri and the G1 Lite. Great fit on all three. Dane
Joined Jun 18, 2008
580 points
Apr 19, 2011
There is a little ice in there!
Ha! I thought you were the Ice Mutant, Dane. The Kangri"s are good so far. Super warm, I like the flexible neoprene top, plenty of toe room and the heal lock is probably the best I've found - I've had trouble in that department... I'm going to keep em and sell my other 2 pairs of Scarpa's. Curt Nelson
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Oct 3, 2006
470 points
Apr 19, 2011
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Can't speak to wide feet as mine are pretty narrow, but the Scarpa Phantom Guides are hands-down THE BEST ice boot I've ever worn. Before them, I was a satisfied LS Nepal Evo wearer.

I would not recommend the Kayland Hypertractions as, IMHO, they're Waaay too soft for vertical ice (at least in my size which is US12). Something like the M11+ might be good. Their newer last is a bit wider than the old one which ran pretty narrow.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Apr 20, 2011
Cham '11
Mutant? Man that is harsh ;-) The Mutant has a carbon fiber sole. Dead rigid..perfect. How are yours?

"the Scarpa Phantom Guides are hands-down THE BEST ice boot I've ever worn"

Wait till you get a chance to try on and use the Ultra. Surprizingly better.
Dane
Joined Jun 18, 2008
580 points
Apr 20, 2011
Cham '11
I have super sensitive feet these days to the cold. Dbl boots for -15C or lower when given the option generally.

But the Ultras are so light, comfortable and fun to climb it is hard to stay out of them. I get a almost perfect fit n mine. Better by a good bit than the Guide because of the different liner.

I climbed in them a bunch this winter. On days I was freezing my ass off, full on shivering on route and my feet were fine. (-20 and windy) My feet were never even chilled, thank goodness. But those were one day affairs. They stay drier than my other two pair but still a couple of days out you'd have damp boots. Those were the same days I should have worn dbls and didn't. I got away with it and no harm done. That impressed me.

I'v heard of other comaprisons with the Guide especially that the Guide is warmer. I just don't see it in the Guide or the Batura and have (own) used all three. Both the guide and Batura are bigger volume (not so much on the Guide) and heavier. The Ultra will be my summer alpine ice boot as well. IMO perfect for anything in the Canadian Rockies with ice or mixed on it.

Ultra at 12K' in winter
Ultra at 12K' in winter


All said the Nepal is an amazing boot as well.
Dane
Joined Jun 18, 2008
580 points
Apr 20, 2011
Descending the knife edge ridge on Aiguille du Mid...
I'm a little surprised no one has mentioned mammut mamooks. I've been climbing in them for two years now and I love them. They've been perfect for winter climbing in New England and the Rockies and springtime in Chamonix. Mammut just came out with a warmer version as well. Mike Hasse
From Lebanon, NH
Joined Nov 11, 2010
316 points
Apr 20, 2011
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Dane wrote:
Wait till you get a chance to try on and use the Ultra. Surprizingly better.


Dane, I look forward to trying them! They must kick themselves into the ice and make me a double- espresso during the lead for enjoyment at the belay! :^)
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
May 20, 2011
Cham '11
Brain, that is cool. I found the same..just a slightly wider/ bigger toe box on the Ultra. And a better over all fit than the Guides. Dane
Joined Jun 18, 2008
580 points
Oct 26, 2011
It's ok...you'll be able to ski soon.
So I've been trying on some boots. Scarpa is a much better fit for me. Northern Lights, only has the phantom guide and I think the jorasses pro gtx. Couple of questions...what about mammut boots?

Is the phantom guide ultra that much better? Is it warm? I was told that they shaved off insulation to make it lighter.

Any thoughts would be great!
athan
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Apr 7, 2010
10 points
Oct 27, 2011
Cham '11
athan wrote:
Is the phantom guide ultra that much better? Is it warm? I was told that they shaved off insulation to make it lighter.


The Ultra is a totally diffferent boot internally from the Guide including the sole where the Ultra lost most of the weight. It also breathes much better than the Guide. I have no doubt they fit differently/better for me than the Guide, owning both. A number of folks in NA (including Scarpa) would like to have you think the Ultra isn't a very good boot. The "no insulation" comment is simply incorrect.

I used mine a lot at -20C in the Alps up high last winter and they were pleanty warm..or at least warm enough that it was never an issue even when I thought it would have been.

I am repeating again what I wrote previous. How many times do I need to do that? The Ultra is extremely difficult and expensive to obtain in North America. But I will be buying a second pair when the time comes.

If you do a search on the Ultra you'll find at least one Brit Guide working in in Europe, Frost I think, who though the Ultra not warm enough and liked the Guide better.
Dane
Joined Jun 18, 2008
580 points


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