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> Peña de Bernal
> Cara Sur (S Face)
> Bernalina Wall
Bernalina
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.4 from 47
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Routes in Bernalina Wall
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Asuntos Exteriores T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bernalina S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Horizonte de Estrellas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Servicio Exterior S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Via del Padre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 7 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 8,777 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Manny Rangel on Mar 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES
Details
Peña de Bernal's South face/town side, is closed to climbing until further notice by the state of Queretaro.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
It was hard to say where the crux was, it was so much fun. Great holds, fat bolts and good climbing up a clean wall. The 4-7 pitches can be tricky due to the low angle and sparsity of bolts but look around.
Location
On the east face, first line of hangers where the trail meets the face. Rap the NE side by walking down and right. Alternatively, you can downclimb the via ferrata to the trail.
"Gunkswest:
Start at the point where the main hiking trail meets the south face of Pena de Bernal. There's a small clearing just off the left side of the trail where you can gear up.
P1: Start by a tree at a six foot high crack/flake. Follow bolts up and left past an intermediate anchor to a second anchor (5.6 PG; 50m).
P2: Climb more or less straight up to another anchor. As you start the pitch, there's a bolt right above the belay and a bit of a move just above that. Use caution - if you came off, you'd hit the belayer (5.7-; 45m).
P3: Do a very low 5th class or 4th class pitch past three or four bolts to a ledge and anchor (5.2; 35m).
P4: Move up and right from the anchor and climb a steep wall on big holds past two bolts (5.7 PG13) to easier climbing. Belay from an anchor at the edge of a flat area (5.7 PG13; 35m).
Walk back a short distance to reach the base of the upper wall (2nd class; 15m).
P5: Follow bolts up lower angled rock to the summit (5.5; 60m+).
NOTES:
A) You can rappel P1 as described above with one 60m rope (two rappels).
B) There is no intermediate anchor on P2 as described above, so if you wished to rappel the route from this point or higher, you'd need two ropes.
C) The start of P4 as described is arguably the crux. If you blew clipping the second bolt, it could end very badly (hence my PG13 rating).
D)The descent from the summit of Pena de Bernal can easily be done with one 60m rope (two rappels) near the line of the via ferrata.Jan 10, 2016
"Gunkswest:
Start at the point where the main hiking trail meets the south face of Pena de Bernal. There's a small clearing just off the left side of the trail where you can gear up.
P1: Start by a tree at a six foot high crack/flake. Follow bolts up and left past an intermediate anchor to a second anchor (5.6 PG; 50m).
P2: Climb more or less straight up to another anchor. As you start the pitch, there's a bolt right above the belay and a bit of a move just above that. Use caution - if you came off, you'd hit the belayer (5.7-; 45m).
P3: Do a very low 5th class or 4th class pitch past three or four bolts to a ledge and anchor (5.2; 35m).
P4: Move up and right from the anchor and climb a steep wall on big holds past two bolts (5.7 PG13) to easier climbing. Belay from an anchor at the edge of a flat area (5.7 PG13; 35m).
Walk back a short distance to reach the base of the upper wall (2nd class; 15m).
P5: Follow bolts up lower angled rock to the summit (5.5; 60m+).
NOTES:
A) You can rappel P1 as described above with one 60m rope (two rappels).
B) There is no intermediate anchor on P2 as described above, so if you wished to rappel the route from this point or higher, you'd need two ropes.
C) The start of P4 as described is arguably the crux. If you blew clipping the second bolt, it could end very badly (hence my PG13 rating).
D)The descent from the summit of Pena de Bernal can easily be done with one 60m rope (two rappels) near the line of the via ferrata.Jan 10, 2016
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