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Emilio Plascencio following pitch one of Bernalina...
It was hard to say where the crux was, it was so much fun. Great holds, fat bolts and good climbing up a clean wall. The 4-7 pitches can be tricky due to the low angle and sparsity of bolts but look around.
On the east face, first line of red hangers where the trail meets the face. Rap the NE side by walking down and right. Alternatively, you can downclimb the via ferrata to the trail.
1/2" bolts, bolted anchors
leon islas seconding the first long (linked) pitch...
|By Anthony Anagnostou|
Dec 24, 2008
far be it from me to claim the ability to fully decipher the mexican climbing beta, but i think that the route with the red hangers is actually "El Lado Oscuro de la Luna", a fun sustained moderate face climb to the right of bernalina.
as far as i can tell, bernalina is the first line of bolts you get to, where the trail hits the rock. there is a small semi-detached pillar/flake at the start where you could get some handjams off the ground. the hangers are silver, and the bolts are spaced out a bit (as they often are on gentle moderates such as this) requiring you really be able to climb it. the angle is way too low and the bolts too far apart to try this thing if you aren't ready.
but not to worry, bernalina (as i describe it) is a seriously friendly outing. the rock is excellent, the angle is easy on the arms, and although i am not the right person to guess, i thought it was more like 5.6. my partner thought 5.7. one thing we could agree on is that it was good clean fun.
-pitch one is most of a 60m rope, passing a bolted anchor about halfway.
-pitch two is another long pitch, although we didnt see an anchor in the middle.
-pitch three is fourth class to an anchor at a ledge, followed by some steeper climbing above to an anchor on the shoulder. to link these two short pitches into one it requires about 15 feet of simulcimbing where both climbers are on easy (4th or 5.0) ground, with a 60m rope. if you find the stuff above the anchor at all intimidating, you should break this up, as the long fourth class below will give you a crappy belay as you climb the 5th class stuff over the ledge.
-pitch four: move the anchor to the base of the next wall (one bolt to stop you flying if your partner pitches before the first clip) and climb a shorter pitch to an anchor on slabby terrain. walk to top.
by my guess, 14 draws will allow you to link anything you want, although id suggest that a handful of them are extending draws. the bolts look good. nothing awful, and nothing smaller than 3/8". the anchors are rigged to rappel, although im pretty sure you would need two ropes and it might be a catchy rap with all the positive features and low-angle terrain.
|By Jose Marmolejo|
May 2, 2013
Hey so I read its possible to rappel with just one rope which I found out in some mexican sites regarding this climb but I just wanted to double check? does anybody know?