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A very-high first bolt and an antiquated anchor are two likely reasons this gem has seen little action. However, with a recent anchor upgrade, climbers now have only one reason to stay off it, but the climbing to the first bolt isn't difficult and is on good, sharp rock.
Scramble up the fourth class ramp of sharp, dark rock for nearly 30 feet to the first bolt. Climb past the second bolt to another ledge in the choss band just below the third bolt. Use caution clipping the third bolt because a fall going to the third bolt would result in a nasty, ankle-shattering ledge encounter.
Breathe a sigh of relief after clipping the third bolt and move into the route's crux...getting established on a clean face of quality rock and climbing past the fourth bolt. Enjoy engaging arete climbing with great position past two more bolts before moving back left onto the face for two more bolts and the anchor.
This is the first route to the right of Guilty By Association. It is easily identified by the very high first bolt.
8 bolts with white-painted homemade hangers to a two-bolt anchor with brown-painted chain. I replaced the homemade hangers and gnarly, brittle cord/webbing anchor with real hangers and chain on 8/31/2013.
|By Bob Robertson|
Sep 2, 2013
Thanks Jason for the up grade. Harvey Miller was also on the first ascent.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 2, 2013
My pleasure, Bob. Thanks for this and so many other routes at Shelf. I really enjoyed this route...the face looks so blank from below but has some wonderful pockets and edges on it.