Berkeley 

Every time that I've climbed this route, I've almost or have gotten stung by wasps nesting in a key hold so be careful, especially if you're allergic to stings.

fun climb. i got lost on the way back down. pay attention to signs people!

What's the pro like on this climb? I know Chicago is rated PG12 or R or whatever... but traversing under the niche... does that give you a bit more for pro? Never been on this climb and I want to give it a go on lead.

Andy, this is an excellent lead. Part of what makes it an excellent lead is that you have to be strategic. You can place a fair amount of gear just before the crux, in the crux, and just after the crux ... but if you use too much gear you will have a lot of bends in the rope (rope drag) and you will wear yourself out in the crux trying to place too much there.

Climbing with confidence is rewarded, as long as the confidence is not misplaced!

The traverse from L to R at the bottom is easy, so try to leave your rope running smooth and straight rather than place a ton of gear at the start.

The FA was Steve Roper, who wrote one of the classic guidebooks to Yosemite, and was well-known for sandbagging easy California climbs. I think this is easily the hardest "5.6" at Devils Lake.

Enough hints?

Doug, thanks for the info. I'm fairly familiar with the DL grading system but it definitely helps to know that this one might be especially stiff. And thanks for the gear beta, too!

crux on Berkeley in my opinion is much tougher than that of brintons... maybe the fact the pulling the overhanging bulge that was protected by a #00 c3 made it a little heady!

Mr. Strong is right, a tad more challenging that Brinton's throughout. Peenuts and 00's may be handy on this one. Climbing direct through the slabs makes an exciting small "run out."

Man, I thought this thing sewed up and the consensus today was that this is easier than Brintons!

Nice climb - perhaps a grade harder than Brinton's for that crux move, a little more burly throughout as well.

Reclimbed this last week...led onsight last year and only gave it 2 stars...once i accepted the fact that this is probably the hardest 5.6 at the lake I appreciated this climb for full value. It truly is good, and it will challenge the 5.8 leader. Also it does protect well, but once again i found myself placing the #0 c3 at the second crux move.

Don't get why people call this a sandbag. Felt like a pretty solid 5.6, definitely not a 7.

Moves felt 5.6, but the route finding is a bit tricky.