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 ADVANCED
Brinton's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Berkeley T,TR 
Brinton's Corner T,TR 
Brinton's Crack T 
Brinton's Direct T,TR 
Cheap Thrills T,TR 
Chiaroscuro TR 
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 
Chicago T,TR 
Evanston Township T,TR 
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 
Golf Road TR 
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 
Rococo Variations T,TR 
Rubberman TR 
Sheep Thrills T,TR 
South Side T 
Stool Pigeon T 

Berkeley 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Steve Roper
Season: 3
Page Views: 2,489
Submitted By: James M Schroeder on Dec 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Chad on Berkeley. Mild November Day. The Rock wa...

Description 

This route shares the same start as Chicago but traverses right below the triangular niche. After traversing right the crux comes when pulling back to the left on some steeper terrain. The route finishes in a chimney/gully to the right of Chicago's finish. A classic.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Berkeley Slideshow Add Photo
Eric P. where the course work starts heat'n up at Berkeley.
Eric P. where the course work starts heat'n up at ...
Traversing to the right from the triangle niche.
BETA PHOTO: Traversing to the right from the triangle niche.
Eric P. undergoing final exam at Berkeley.
Eric P. undergoing final exam at Berkeley.
On-sighting Berkeley on a cold October afternoon
On-sighting Berkeley on a cold October afternoon
Eric P. starting grad at Berkeley.
Eric P. starting grad at Berkeley.
Our rope leader Chris climbing this in his bulky hiking boots! He's alpine training and killing tough routes without the aid of appropriate climbing shoes!
Our rope leader Chris climbing this in his bulky h...
Comments on Berkeley Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 20, 2012
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 18, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Every time that I've climbed this route, I've almost or have gotten stung by wasps nesting in a key hold so be careful, especially if you're allergic to stings.

By Josiah
From: rapid city, SD
May 1, 2009

fun climb. i got lost on the way back down. pay attention to signs people!

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 16, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

What's the pro like on this climb? I know Chicago is rated PG12 or R or whatever... but traversing under the niche... does that give you a bit more for pro? Never been on this climb and I want to give it a go on lead.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Mar 17, 2010

Andy, this is an excellent lead. Part of what makes it an excellent lead is that you have to be strategic. You can place a fair amount of gear just before the crux, in the crux, and just after the crux ... but if you use too much gear you will have a lot of bends in the rope (rope drag) and you will wear yourself out in the crux trying to place too much there.

Climbing with confidence is rewarded, as long as the confidence is not misplaced!

The traverse from L to R at the bottom is easy, so try to leave your rope running smooth and straight rather than place a ton of gear at the start.

The FA was Steve Roper, who wrote one of the classic guidebooks to Yosemite, and was well-known for sandbagging easy California climbs. I think this is easily the hardest "5.6" at Devils Lake.

Enough hints?

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 17, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Doug, thanks for the info. I'm fairly familiar with the DL grading system but it definitely helps to know that this one might be especially stiff. And thanks for the gear beta, too!

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

crux on Berkeley in my opinion is much tougher than that of brintons... maybe the fact the pulling the overhanging bulge that was protected by a #00 c3 made it a little heady!

By Forestvonsinkafinger
From: Iowa
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Mr. Strong is right, a tad more challenging that Brinton's throughout. Peenuts and 00's may be handy on this one. Climbing direct through the slabs makes an exciting small "run out."

By Tradoholic
May 6, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Man, I thought this thing sewed up and the consensus today was that this is easier than Brintons!

By Ben Sherwin
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Nice climb - perhaps a grade harder than Brinton's for that crux move, a little more burly throughout as well.

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Reclimbed this last week...led onsight last year and only gave it 2 stars...once i accepted the fact that this is probably the hardest 5.6 at the lake I appreciated this climb for full value. It truly is good, and it will challenge the 5.8 leader. Also it does protect well, but once again i found myself placing the #0 c3 at the second crux move.

By Gokul
Jun 27, 2012

Don't get why people call this a sandbag. Felt like a pretty solid 5.6, definitely not a 7.

By Whippin
From: Bend, OR
Aug 20, 2012

Moves felt 5.6, but the route finding is a bit tricky.