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Berhault's quickdraws pre-clipped to rope?
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By Keith Earley
From Boulder, Colorado
Aug 3, 2011
Unknown at Golden Cliffs

I stumbled across this video today
:


it shows Patrick Berhault sport climbing and dance climbing. If you look closely at the sport climb, it seems he unclips a quickdraw that is already clipped to the rope, and clips it into the bolt. Is this a Berhault thing, a French thing, or a style of the time? I have never seen this on the rock before, but for short routes, it seems like a good idea.


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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Aug 3, 2011
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan

I think if you fell on it the force would break your gear loop.

I think some people clip the rope first, then the draw.


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By Mark Roth
From Boulder
Aug 3, 2011
not climbing

I think having the rope pre-clipped is sorta like cheating, therefore a pink pants.



I mean Pink Point


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By Keith Earley
From Boulder, Colorado
Aug 3, 2011
Unknown at Golden Cliffs

Phil Lauffen wrote:
I think if you fell on it the force would break your gear loop. I think some people clip the rope first, then the draw.


If you fell, it wouldn't load your gear loop at all; only quickdraws on the wall will be weighted. It seems like after about 5 quickdraws, this method would get annoying and clustered.


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By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Aug 3, 2011
Me and my Fetish I guess.. ;)

Whatever.. he'd be a big fat nobody without those pink Speedos!

Funny thing is when I first started climbing, we did that. It evolved into leaving a couple pre-clipped at the knot for hard clips then we stopped entirely once we saw no one else was doing it because all we really wanted was to fit in with the cool kids.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 3, 2011
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

I think Todd Skinner was the first person I saw do that. I did it a few times in the 80s. At one point a company put small vecro loops on gear slings and on harness waist belts. Heck I remember when we started putting two carabiners on a shoulder length sling to make "quickdraws" rather than clipping a biner into the bolt/pin, then a shoulder length, then another carabiner to clip the rope to. Cams were considered cheating once too!


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