||Trad, 4 pitches, 700', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Andy Ross Gene Vallee Paul Ross (var leads)26th Sept 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||292|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Sep 30, 2012|
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BETA PHOTO: Back To Camp. A) The last third of the Mile and a ...
The climb starts below the fifth wave south of Two Fingers Canyon. Scramble the gully keeping left where it steepens. When the crag is reached go about 60' up to the left (small cairn/tree).
P1) Climb to a bolt at 25' go up to a awkward but well protected short chimney. Move left to the second groove then up to natural belay. 200' 5.8+. On the descent the rap anchors are about 50' south of this belay.
P2) Scramble across left to the foot of a right facing groove. Up this with natural pro past one bolt to a tree belay. 200' 5.6. (Rap anchors 30' to the right)
P3) Cross the large ledge to the foot of the impressive face. Climb past a cam placement to a bolt at 40'. Move left to a right leaning crack. Follow this on good gear until one can step left, then up to a second bolt. Straight up to double anchors. 200' 5.8.
P4) Climb straight up through the holes and grooves past two bolts to double anchors. 100' 5.8.
From the belay, scramble up the easy groove to the ridge then right to a fine summit with super views of the Reef. Register in cairn.
Drive to Two Fingers Canyon. Reasonable clearance but no 4 wheel. Walk south for about 15 mins to below the fifth wave then up the gully. See topo photo.
Cams 1/2" to 3.5". Stoppers. Two 60m ropes
Andy Starting first pitch
Note trucks below left elbow
Paul starting the 200' P2
BETA PHOTO: A)The Milky Way 5.8
B)Berghaus Red 5.8+
Water and Sandwich carrier
Walking up the summit ridge
Refreshments at Two Fingers Canyon