Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
S Crags
Select Route:
Airborn to New Time Zone T 
Berghaus Red T 
Every Picture Tells a Story T 
Glenfiddich Regrets T 
Leaving America T 
Milky Way, The T 

Berghaus Red 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 700', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Andy Ross Gene Vallee Paul Ross (var leads)26th Sept 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 293
Submitted By: USBRIT on Sep 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Back To Camp. A) The last third of the Mile and a ...

Description 

The climb starts below the fifth wave south of Two Fingers Canyon. Scramble the gully keeping left where it steepens. When the crag is reached go about 60' up to the left (small cairn/tree).

P1) Climb to a bolt at 25' go up to a awkward but well protected short chimney. Move left to the second groove then up to natural belay. 200' 5.8+. On the descent the rap anchors are about 50' south of this belay.

P2) Scramble across left to the foot of a right facing groove. Up this with natural pro past one bolt to a tree belay. 200' 5.6. (Rap anchors 30' to the right)

P3) Cross the large ledge to the foot of the impressive face. Climb past a cam placement to a bolt at 40'. Move left to a right leaning crack. Follow this on good gear until one can step left, then up to a second bolt. Straight up to double anchors. 200' 5.8.

P4) Climb straight up through the holes and grooves past two bolts to double anchors. 100' 5.8.

From the belay, scramble up the easy groove to the ridge then right to a fine summit with super views of the Reef. Register in cairn.

Location 

Drive to Two Fingers Canyon. Reasonable clearance but no 4 wheel. Walk south for about 15 mins to below the fifth wave then up the gully. See topo photo.

Protection 

Cams 1/2" to 3.5". Stoppers. Two 60m ropes


Photos of Berghaus Red Slideshow Add Photo
Andy Starting first pitch
Andy Starting first pitch
Note trucks below left elbow
Note trucks below left elbow
Paul starting the 200' P2
Paul starting the 200' P2
Andy higher on P4
Andy higher on P4
Near The belay P2
Near The belay P2
Andy and Gene on Summit
Andy and Gene on Summit
Gene following P2
Gene following P2
A)The Milky Way 5.8 <br />B)Berghaus Red 5.8+
BETA PHOTO: A)The Milky Way 5.8 B)Berghaus Red 5.8+
Andy on P3
Andy on P3
Water and Sandwich carrier
Water and Sandwich carrier
Higher on P3
Higher on P3
Walking up the summit ridge
Walking up the summit ridge
Following P3
Following P3
Ross's on Summit
Ross's on Summit
Berghaus Red
Berghaus Red
Refreshments at Two Fingers Canyon
Refreshments at Two Fingers Canyon

Comments on Berghaus Red Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -