A nice alpine peak that's loaded with potential. The South face, above the Wall Street Glacier, is about 3,400 feet high. There have been three routes done so far and another failed attempt that came very close to topping out. See the 2011 AAJ for more info.
It's a long appproach no matter which way you go. Peters Creek is is easiest but also the longest. Crossing Eklutna Lake and going over the pass between Benign and Beehaven is a shorter option. It's possible to go up the Fears Tears gully, also from Eklutna, and over the saddle between Benign and Bellicose. Approaching from the Ram valley is another option.
Browse More Classics in Benign Peak
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Benign Peak:
The Cancer WI5-6 M6 Steep Snow R Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 25 pitches, 3300 feet, Grade VI
Grizzley Camel WI4 M4 Steep Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 25 pitches, 3300 feet, Grade V
Featured Route For Benign Peak
Grizzley Camel WI4 M4 Steep Snow AK : Anchorage & South Central I... : Benign Peak
Start on the WI4 waterfall to the right of the center of the face. The second pitch is the crux. Above the crux there is around 2,000 feet of fairly continous WI3 climbing. A long enjoyable alpine route that tops out on the South summit. See the 2011 AAJ for more info....[more] Browse More Classics in AK