|Christian Brothers- West Side
Scramble to the ledge just below the obvious (short) crack. Clip the first bolt and climb through the crux past the end of the crack to easier nubbin climbing to the anchors.
Left of Manic Nirvana & Midriff Bulge
Quickdraws. Two bolt anchor.
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Jan 31, 2011
There are 10 bolts, plus the original anchors which you may or may not want to use. Just above this anchor, distinguished by its giant rusted rap rings, is another newer one. The top one is - perhaps - slightly more comfortable. You can also belay Holier Than Thou from here.
The first bolt you can clip from the starting perch - either runner it or skip it to avoid (minimal) rope drag. I guess the crack up to the lip (where it becomes super-slabby) was bolted to make this another novice sport lead, but it is easily protected with gear up to 3/4". The first four bolts are placed ridiculously close together (along the crack), and present an interesting contrast with the old-school glue-ins above. There is always a knob or three when you want it. Got my buddy to lead this at the end of the day as a direct approach to Get On The Ball.
4 days ago
Great nubbin warmup for beginners, and as an approach to Holier Than Thou.