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Ben T 
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Ben 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Houser, Darryl Nakahira, Doug Ziesner, Todd Gordon & Ian Carter, November 1980
Page Views: 307
Submitted By: C Miller on Nov 29, 2002

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Pulling over the small roof leading to nothing spe...

Description 

The furthest left route on the west face, this climbs past a small roof (crux) down low to easier face moves above. The anchor is below the top of the rock, but one can easily climb past to the top of the rock.

Protection 

4 bolts, anchors


Photos of Ben Slideshow Add Photo
 A 70's vintage Houser hanger with 1/4" x 1.25" split shaft Rawldrive bolt and the modern hardware (3/8" x 3.5" that typically replaces it. Which would you prefer?
A 70's vintage Houser hanger with 1/4" x 1.2...
 70's vintage Houser hangers. The top row shows hangers with the DPH stamp and includes an uncommon left-facing hanger (top right). The bottom row shows a normal clip-in eye (center) and others deformed by repeated falls.
70's vintage Houser hangers. The top row shows ha...

Comments on Ben Add Comment
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By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Feb 16, 2004

The anchor atop this route is the same as the pro; 2 smash-in type bolts. One of them is a spinner. The other looks solid. We found one sling with one end each tied to a respective bolt with a 3/8" welded ring. My partner retied the sling so each was a separate loop. If you plan to rap from these anchors you might want to take a couple of slings and some new rap rings. Of course, then your ropes (you'll need two) will end up in the giant prickly pear arrangement at the bottom.
By Bo Johnston
Mar 13, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'd say the crux is the edging to get up to the little roof. Pulling the roof wasn't so bad with a good undercling and a hold to the left to pull on. These bolts are not really cutting it. I think the innitials DPH were stamped on them. Oh, as for the rappel. I rapped to the right chain anchors atop Willard to get down. One rope for sure.
By Randy
Mar 14, 2005

These bolts (and hangers) are the original 1/4 inchers placed on the FA. The hangers were homemade aluminum jobs made by Dave Houser ("DPH"). These used to be found on all sorts of his routes in the Park, but have been mostly replaced over the years. The problem with these hangers is that they deform (as a result of falls) over time, until they break without warning.
By Bo Johnston
Mar 14, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Hey Randy, I kinda like seeing old bolts and finding out their history but in a fall... Anyhow, in the '92 publication, Ben is rated 10a on the Nomad page and 10b in the index of the book. Which one did you mean or what will it be in the new book?
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Nov 12, 2008

This route is very serious and should be considered "X" rated until the protection bolts and belay bolts are replaced. Still has the 1/4" button heads and home made hangers of the first ascent 28 years later on November 2008.

Maybe some of JT's professional bolters could re-visit this route soon...
By Aaron Miller
Dec 28, 2013

Still has buttonheads as of 2013. The anchor should be replaced as it is needed if you top out on any of the routes. a 70m does not reach the ground without traversing to other anchor.