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The cliffs of Ben Lomond provide arguably the best climbing in Tasmania. Anyone interested in the finer points of jamming can perfect their skills here, with soaring, unblemished cracks rising 200m straight up. But beware, one of the problems of climbing here is gear related - it is not uncommon that you will require at least four pieces of identical protection, so perfect are the cracks - some are known to require a rack of at least fifteen friends! The other down-side is that some climbers also find some of the climbing a little boring, so unchanging is its nature.
Ben Lomond is located about 50km south-east of Launceston. It shouldn't take much more than an hour to be at some of the closer crags, though with walks of up to two hours some are more suitable as weekend epics. Watch out for wildlife in the wee-hours, as the National Park is crawling with it.
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Featured Route For Ben Lomond
Rajah 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Australia : Tasmania : ... : Frews Flutes
Each of the three pitches on this route are superb, and together they form one of the loveliest 18's (5.10a) in the state. Start off the donga, below the 15m hand crack on the left. 1) 15m 18. Climb the hand crack to the large ledge on the left. Take plenty of 2½ to 3½ friends. 2) 30m 17. The hand crack continues, with one difficult section where it becomes off-width (though you can climb the face on the right), to another great belay ledge atop the Ramadan pinnacle. 3) 40m 18. As for Ramadan. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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