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Ben Dover Face
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Ben Dover S 
Eileen Dover S 
Pincher, The S 

Ben Dover 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon and Bob Gaines, 1994
Page Views: 682
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Sep 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Ben Dover (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP

Description 

This route takes the left most line of bolts on the wall. The bolts sprayed into this wall are semi confusing, and I found the second bolt real hard to clip. If you move slightly to the left into a broken corner, the moves are easier on worse rock. At the top, you can move left to a slightly easier top out, or move right to a very easy top out, or go straight up for a contrived and harder top out. The climbing is good, but contrived, and the moves can be interesting if you pick and use the nice jugs.

Location 

This route is around the corner to the left of Fun Stuff, on the left end of the formation, just right of a broken corner. The obvious line of bolts and chalk.

These routes have anchors at the top or you can down climb to climbers left.

Protection 

3 bolts, anchors (all 3/8"). Anchors on top are well back from the lip.


Photos of Ben Dover Slideshow Add Photo
Ben & Eileen Dover Beta Shot
BETA PHOTO: Ben & Eileen Dover Beta Shot
Adam Gill
Adam Gill

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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

When I did this route well over a decade ago, I remember a couple of the bolts being wierdly placed.
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 16, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The leftmost line of bolts (with tan hangers) - three bolts to Metolius rap hangers a bit too far back at the top. Numerous holds have broken off since the FA which may make clipping some of the bolts harder than orginally intended.
By Canon
Mar 1, 2012

An unusual but fun climb. First time I've ever legitimately used a knee bar. Bolts are weirdly placed, hardest moves are getting off the deck. The anchor up top does NOT have rap rings on it, just hangars, and its pretty far back from the edge. I would just rap down the bolts over The Pincher.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Feb 2, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Short route, but packs a punch and well worth doing. Unlike it's neighbor, this isn't a one move wonder....
By johnnydanger
From: California
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Has Large Rap Hangers!!! Great climb on good holds. High pump factor.