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Below The Old New Place

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 
Color of My Potion 
Fat Boys Don't Fly 
Flesh-Eating Gnats 
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands 
Greg Shredder 
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus 
Inflight Movie 
Instant Dogma 
L Dopa 
Little Shop Of Horrors 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 
Manic Nirvana 
Monsterpiece Theatre 
Oscar de La Cholla 
Pathogenic Cysts 
Polyester Terror 
Putterman Cracks 
Ralph's Dilemma 
Ralph's Leisure Suit 
Ralph's Revenge 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) 
Route 1 
Route 22 
Route 24 
Route 25 
Route 26 
Route 27 
Route 31 
Route 32 
Sardonic Smile 
Scandanavian Airlines 
Strong Urge to Fly 
Wailing Banshees 

Below The Old New Place 

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Location: 35.81897, -106.1871 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,614
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: The Left end of Below The old New Place. Bolted r...


This crag is known for its high concentration of fully-bolted sport climbs, that ascend high quality pocketed basalt. This cliff probably has the highest concentration of hard routes at White Rock, with 10 of its 30 or so routes checking in at 5.12. The cliff also offers an excellent cliff-base atmosphere, with large, flat belay zones, flat rocks for sitting, and a beautiful, relaxed setting. The routes are so convenient and dense that its easy to tick 10 or more routes in an afternoon.

The cliff faces generally East like most WR crags, but the dihedral-ly nature of the cliff causes a bit more sun/shade variety than other nearby crags. The most northerly facing routes get shade a bit after 1pm, while some routes aren't fully shaded till after 3pm.

While the rock here is excellent, the crag is a bit short (~50-60 feet), and many of the climbs suffer from mud runoff, coating routes like Sardonic Smile in a thick layer of dirt. Its easy to spot the dirty routes from the ground: they're the ones that look white or light gray.

Although there are some new climbs in this area, the original guide to Below the Old New Place by Samet & Jett has been shared thanks to the authors and the Los Alamos Mountaineers:>>>

Getting There 

Stolen from Jason H: From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Once at the canyon rim, turn left and walk N for ~50 yds, along the top of "The Old New Place". Locate an easy descent path (one 6 foot downclimb) that switches back down past the Old New Place (to the S), and eventually leads to the S end of Below The Old New Place. Total approach time is ~5 minutes. First bolted routes encountered are Scandinavian Airlines and Inflight Movie.

35 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Below The Old New Place:
L Dopa   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 35'   
Ralph's Revenge   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 60'   
P.M.S.   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Ralph's Dilemma   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 60'   
Flesh-Eating Gnats   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wailing Banshees   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 62'   
Pathogenic Cysts   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Ralph's Leisure Suit   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Monsterpiece Theatre   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Inflight Movie   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Fat Boys Don't Fly   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Sport, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Below The Old New Place

Featured Route For Below The Old New Place
Tigger overly scared on this classic. No, its not a screw, but I think they will hold a fall dude.

Ralph's Dilemma 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Below The Old New Place
Quality stemming up an aesthetic corner.Stem the open book under the big roof, finding ledges on pockets on the side walls. The seam in the corner provides adequate protection; RPs or other tiny nuts are helpful. Higher the crack widens rewarding the climber with hand jams just before you reach the roof. Originally, at the roof, one would make a huge stem to the right with your own gear placements under the roof; turn the corner and a move later reach the anchors shared wi...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Below The Old New Place Slideshow Add Photo
The right end.  Not all routes shown. <br />18. PMS <br />19. IDYWASIAD <br />23. Fat Boys Don't Fly <br />28. Sardonic Smile <br />30. Strong Urge to Fly
BETA PHOTO: The right end. Not all routes shown.
18. PMS
19. ...
The Center section of Below The Old New Place.  Not all routes shown. <br />10. Flesh Eating Gnats <br />12. Adam Ant <br />13. Wailing Banshees <br />18. PMS
BETA PHOTO: The Center section of Below The Old New Place. No...
Jason Halladay (green spiderman) going for the RP of Flesh Eating Gnats and George Perkins going for the RP of Manic Crack.
Jason Halladay (green spiderman) going for the RP ...
  (11) Ralph's Revenge 5.9  <br />  (12) Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 5.12a  <br />  (13) Wailing Banshees 5.11b/c  <br />  (14) Left Twin Crack (aka Manic Crack) 5.11  <br />  (15) Manic Nirvana 5.12  <br />  (16) Right Twin Crack(aka Lost Nerve) 5.10+  <br />(16.5) ?new line 5.11 <br />  (17) L Dopa 5.9  <br />  (18) P.M.S.  <br />
BETA PHOTO: (11) Ralph's Revenge 5.9
(12) Adam Ant (aka N...
Comments on Below The Old New Place Add Comment
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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 30, 2008

Ditto on the improvements to the approach trail and anchors - thanks!

To anyone looking to climb at Below the Old New Place: Please keep in mind that there are now "fixed" carabiners on several of the routes (Flesh Eating Gnats, Wailing Banshees, Monsterpiece Theater). Recently, somebody took the carabiners off the anchor chains on Flesh Eating Gnats! This happened sometime between April 15th and April 29th. Remember: carabiners on anchors are not booty! They have been generously donated to the crag to facilitate cleaning/lowering, so please leave them there. Thanks!