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This crag is known for its high concentration of fully-bolted sport climbs, that ascend high quality pocketed basalt. This cliff probably has the highest concentration of hard routes at White Rock, with 10 of its 30 or so routes checking in at 5.12. The cliff also offers an excellent cliff-base atmosphere, with large, flat belay zones, flat rocks for sitting, and a beautiful, relaxed setting. The routes are so convenient and dense that its easy to tick 10 or more routes in an afternoon.
Stolen from Jason H: From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Once at the canyon rim, turn left and walk N for ~50 yds, along the top of "The Old New Place". Locate an easy descent path (one 6 foot downclimb) that switches back down past the Old New Place (to the S), and eventually leads to the S end of Below The Old New Place. Total approach time is ~5 minutes. First bolted routes encountered are Scandinavian Airlines and Inflight Movie.
35 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Below The Old New Place
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Below The Old New Place:
L Dopa 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 35'
Ralph's Revenge 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 60'
P.M.S. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Ralph's Dilemma 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 60'
Flesh-Eating Gnats 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Wailing Banshees 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 62'
Pathogenic Cysts 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Ralph's Leisure Suit 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Monsterpiece Theatre 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Inflight Movie 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Fat Boys Don't Fly 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Sport, 40'
Featured Route For Below The Old New Place
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Below The Old New Place
In my opinion, the best of the 12a's at BTONP. Not as long as some, but by far the most sustained. It's on from the first bolt to the anchor.Scramble up the ledge to begin. You may want a piece of gear to start, or haul your stick clip up to the ledge to clip the first bolt, or solo up the crack 2 moves to clip the bolt. Head straight up on awesome sculpted pockets and thin crimps. Long sequential reaches on incut but small holds lead up the ever steepening wall. Near the top the holds dwi...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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