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L to R R to L Alpha
This crag is known for its high concentration of fully-bolted sport climbs, that ascend high quality pocketed basalt. This cliff probably has the highest concentration of hard routes at White Rock, with 10 of its 30 or so routes checking in at 5.12. The cliff also offers an excellent cliff-base atmosphere, with large, flat belay zones, flat rocks for sitting, and a beautiful, relaxed setting. The routes are so convenient and dense that its easy to tick 10 or more routes in an afternoon.
Stolen from Jason H: From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Once at the canyon rim, turn left and walk N for ~50 yds, along the top of "The Old New Place". Locate an easy descent path (one 6 foot downclimb) that switches back down past the Old New Place (to the S), and eventually leads to the S end of Below The Old New Place. Total approach time is ~5 minutes. First bolted routes encountered are Scandinavian Airlines and Inflight Movie.
35 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Below The Old New Place
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Below The Old New Place:
L Dopa 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 35'
Ralph's Revenge 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 60'
P.M.S. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Ralph's Dilemma 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 60'
Flesh-Eating Gnats 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Wailing Banshees 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 62'
Pathogenic Cysts 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Ralph's Leisure Suit 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Monsterpiece Theatre 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Inflight Movie 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Fat Boys Don't Fly 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport, 40'
Featured Route For Below The Old New Place
Flesh-Eating Gnats 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Below The Old New Place
One of the original sport climbs to go in at White Rock, "Gnats" climbs an amazing arete with possible moves on either side using pockets and small ledges. At the beginning, bypass the undercut roof to the left and reach around the arete to the right to clip the out-of-sight 1st bolt. It's a bit intimidating to get to the 2nd bolt but easier than it looks. As you move up farther, look for pockets on both sides of the arete and some stances on the arete itself. Up high, the rock becomes less ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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