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Below The Old New Place

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 
Color of My Potion S 
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 
Greg Shredder T 
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 
Inflight Movie S 
Instant Dogma S 
L Dopa T 
Little Shop Of Horrors S 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 
Manic Nirvana S 
Monsterpiece Theatre S 
Oscar de La Cholla T 
P.M.S. S 
Pathogenic Cysts S 
Polyester Terror T 
Putterman Cracks T 
Ralph's Dilemma T 
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 
Ralph's Revenge T 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 
Route 1 T 
Route 22 T 
Route 24 T 
Route 25 S 
Route 26 T 
Route 27 S 
Route 31 S 
Route 32 T 
Sardonic Smile S 
Scandanavian Airlines S 
Strong Urge to Fly S 
Wailing Banshees S 

Below The Old New Place  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.81897, -106.1871 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,041
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007  with updates from George Perkins
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BETA PHOTO: The Left end of Below The old New Place. Bolted r...


This crag is known for its high concentration of fully-bolted sport climbs, that ascend high quality pocketed basalt. This cliff probably has the highest concentration of hard routes at White Rock, with 10 of its 30 or so routes checking in at 5.12. The cliff also offers an excellent cliff-base atmosphere, with large, flat belay zones, flat rocks for sitting, and a beautiful, relaxed setting. The routes are so convenient and dense that its easy to tick 10 or more routes in an afternoon.

The cliff faces generally East like most WR crags, but the dihedral-ly nature of the cliff causes a bit more sun/shade variety than other nearby crags. The most northerly facing routes get shade a bit after 1pm, while some routes aren't fully shaded till after 3pm.

While the rock here is excellent, the crag is a bit short (~50-60 feet), and many of the climbs suffer from mud runoff, coating routes like Sardonic Smile in a thick layer of dirt. Its easy to spot the dirty routes from the ground: they're the ones that look white or light gray.

This area first appeared in the original "Sport Climbing in New Mexico" book by Randal Jett and Matt Samet. The Below the Old New Place excerpt from that book can be found here on the Los Alamos Mountaineers website.

Getting There 

Stolen from Jason H: From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Once at the canyon rim, turn left and walk N for ~50 yds, along the top of "The Old New Place". Locate an easy descent path (one 6 foot downclimb) that switches back down past the Old New Place (to the S), and eventually leads to the S end of Below The Old New Place. Total approach time is ~5 minutes. First bolted routes encountered are Scandinavian Airlines and Inflight Movie.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.9 miles from here

35 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Below The Old New Place:
Ralph's Revenge   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 60'   
L Dopa   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 35'   
Polyester Terror   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 50'   
P.M.S.   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Ralph's Dilemma   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   
Flesh-Eating Gnats   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wailing Banshees   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 62'   
Pathogenic Cysts   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Ralph's Leisure Suit   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Monsterpiece Theatre   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Inflight Movie   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Fat Boys Don't Fly   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Below The Old New Place

Featured Route For Below The Old New Place
Really nice, sustained arete climbing.

Flesh-Eating Gnats 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Below The Old New Place
One of the original sport climbs to go in at White Rock, "Gnats" climbs an amazing arete with possible moves on either side using pockets and small ledges. At the beginning, bypass the undercut roof to the left and reach around the arete to the right to clip the out-of-sight 1st bolt. It's a bit intimidating to get to the 2nd bolt but easier than it looks. As you move up farther, look for pockets on both sides of the arete and some stances on the arete itself. Up high, the rock becomes less ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Below The Old New Place Slideshow Add Photo
The right end.  Not all routes shown. 18. PMS 19. ...
BETA PHOTO: The right end. Not all routes shown. 18. PMS 19. ...
The Center section of Below The Old New Place.  No...
BETA PHOTO: The Center section of Below The Old New Place. No...
Jason Halladay (green spiderman) going for the RP ...
Jason Halladay (green spiderman) going for the RP ...
  (11) Ralph's Revenge 5.9    (12) Adam Ant (aka N...
BETA PHOTO: (11) Ralph's Revenge 5.9 (12) Adam Ant (aka N...

Comments on Below The Old New Place Add Comment
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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 30, 2008
Ditto on the improvements to the approach trail and anchors - thanks!

To anyone looking to climb at Below the Old New Place: Please keep in mind that there are now "fixed" carabiners on several of the routes (Flesh Eating Gnats, Wailing Banshees, Monsterpiece Theater). Recently, somebody took the carabiners off the anchor chains on Flesh Eating Gnats! This happened sometime between April 15th and April 29th. Remember: carabiners on anchors are not booty! They have been generously donated to the crag to facilitate cleaning/lowering, so please leave them there. Thanks!