Bellyflop 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Eli Helmuth, 2001 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Aug 24, 2003 |
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Carol Kotchek leading Bellyflop; moving ...
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Start as for Backflip, but climb the flake system immediately to the left. This initial flake can be protected with four medium-sized cams; the leader can scope out the required pro from the ground. Work left onto the slab and follow four bolts to the top. The climbing is delicate and sustained. The two-bolt anchor is on a good ledge. The leader can bring up the second, or rappel/lower 95' back down. The leader should extend the anchor with a cordalette or long slings if they are going to rappel or lower and belay the second from the ground. Bellyflop can be top-roped after leading the first 100' of Backflip (5.8+). One could also climb the gully right of Backflip to access the top anchor. Be sure to extend the anchor if you are going to top-rope.
Protection Four gear placements (medium cams) and four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
Carol Kotchek leading Bellyflop; at the ...
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By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Aug 29, 2003
| ...We got down with a single 60m rope with about 5 feet to spare. If you lead Backflip, traverse over to the Bellyflop anchor, and then try to lower, I could see where a 60m rope wouldn't make it. A straight rappel down Bellyflop (or a lower after leading Bellyflop) is doable with one 60m rope. A note on the pro: the leader in our group placed two medium wired nuts, a #2 Camalot, and a #1 Friend to protect the starting flake. |
By justin dubois From: Estes Park Mar 22, 2004
| I did this for the first time yesterday, great pitch. For some reason I had it in my head that it was 10a, you can imagine my dismay when passing the second bolt, I thought for sure I was off. I managed it, but was glad to see it's called 10c. I've heard people say it's harder since the first ascent, maybe somthing busted off. Still, a great pitch that's pretty sustained and fun. |
By Brian Weinstein Jul 2, 2005 rating: 5.10d
| I thought the one-move crux was quite thin and warranted a 10d rating. High quality crack and face climbing. Nice route. |
By Curt Nelson From: Fort Collins, CO Sep 2, 2008 rating: 5.11a
| The bottom crack was great fun but I'd love to see Eli lead this in his approach shoes - I thought the top around the third bolt was very thin. Maybe something has changed over the years? |
By Eli Helmuth From: Estes Park, CO Sep 12, 2008 rating: 5.10c
| Curt, I don't mind being called a girl, just don't call me Sarah Palin! The LaSportiva B5's are my favorite for edging, the 5.10 guide tennies for friction and the Nike AGCs seem to friction just as well and last the longest. Boreal are always comfortable and I haven't tried the Scarpa approach shoes yet? Cool conditons help in this summertime hot spot and all of the small holds remain in place from the FA...having 'come of age' in Joshua Tree, this style of climbing is my forte? Once the angle goes over vertical, and the holds get big, I'm in trouble! |
By Curt Nelson From: Fort Collins, CO Oct 26, 2008 rating: 5.11a
| Sorry Eli I have realized my mistake there - I actually talked to someone who knew you and informed me of my stupidity... it was way hot when I tried this - my mountain boots would have edged better. I bet Sarah couldn't get up the thing! Peace. |
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