|b. Jackie and friends
You haven't really climbed it unless you've gotten inside the chimney and done the "belly roll"!
P1: Climb the wide crack until it leans leftward and opens into a squeeze chimney. Dive in there and worm your way upward (your belayer will die laughing; make sure they don't have a camera) to easier ground. Continue up past a corner, and belay on the ledge. (5.4, 70ft.)
P2: Go up the short, right-facing corner, then up past a crack to the top. (5.2, 50ft.)
Descend via the Uberfall Descent - much quicker and less tangled than rapping.
A short walk past the Überfall, between the popular climbs Dennis and Jackie. Look for a body-width crack that leans to the left.
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 18, 2009
I climb all the way into the belly roll onto my belly, then somehow, I manage to turn around onto my back and I exit the OW. This is a fun climb that has a second crux at the 1/2 way mark (great hands, no feet). Second pitch is just as fun.
|By J Antin|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 10, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
3 Stars in the Grey Dick ~ You've got to be kidding me!
|By Greg Sudlow|
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
While the short (and not so great) first pitch has the "Bell Roll" move, its the easy but exposed second pitch that gives this climb its star power. Enjoy the fun jug haul to the top but make sure to back up those old pins!
|By Doctor Hemlock|
May 23, 2010
Offwidths are definitely not my favorite, but good experience anyway. Be sure not to carry too much crap on your harness through the offwidth - you will find yourself using more energy than needed to squeeze through it. Find your feet inside the offwidth - good experience for the newer climber. Second pitch starts off with a challenging slightly overhanging left-facing corner and not great feet. Good challenge for new leaders.
|By Larry S|
Oct 26, 2010
This climb is way more fun from the ground. That was the most awkward lead experience I've ever had. But I would really like to make/watch some of my friends go up it.
Sep 19, 2011
Fun climbing, the P1 "Belly Roll" was an interesting experience, much like the grey dick says, you haven't climbed the Belly Roll unless you've gotten into the off-width on P1.
|By Ian Dibbs|
Apr 19, 2012
Opening "Belly Roll" move is much easier if you try to squeeze deeply into "it" instead of slithering half in half out over the top. Second pitch is short and not technicaly demanding(few 5.5 moves)but lots of fun for beginner/intermediate climbers.
Jun 13, 2012
Fun climb -- except for the (short) belly roll section.
(maybe I didn't get far enough inside it? - perhaps I'll try that next time). P2 is one of the better 5.2-5.3 pitches in the Gunks.
Sharon hates "the roll" even more than I do, so I've suggested that she just bring prusiks and "aid" her way up that short section, so she can enjoy the remainder. One time she avoided "the roll" by actually traversing way left and climbing the friction ramp on the Dennis route -- but I have a feeling she was pretty unprotected for a bad "swing" if she had fallen on that.