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The crux is getting up the first ten feet, the first bolt is well past this. You may want to stick-clip it from the right.
After clipping that bolt, the climbing settles down, a lot up to a horizontal crack, then gets interesting, though not very hard, the rest of the way. Bolts and another crack or two provide gear.
Were the rest of the route as hard as its start, this would be a premium friction testpiece.
At the right end of the low point of the slab, where the cliff angles uphill slightly, just about midway along its base.
A few medium cams (#.7 to #2 C4s), QDs.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I think taller people might find the opening crux moves easier.
|By Bruce Monroe|
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
Thoughtful at the start especially if you are leading. The first bolt is after the 5.9 move. The rest get's easier the farther up you go. (Stick clip if you get sketched easily).