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East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Assembly Line 
Back to Montana 
Belle Fourche Buttress 
Broken Tree 
Buckspeck 
Burning Daylight 
Casper College 
Everlasting 
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Hourglass, The 
Maid in the Shade 
Missed Opportunity 
New Wave 
Patent Pending 
Pinball Wizard 
Soaring 
Spectator Sport 
Surfer Girl 
Team Ropin 
Witchie 

Belle Fourche Buttress 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,866
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Sep 1, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Climber on the wonderful Belle Fourche. Picture t...
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Description 

This route takes on the right side of the obvious yellow columns known collectively as the Belle Fourche Buttress. The first pitch is short and goes up the left side of a small block to a nice ledge with bolted anchors. Pitch 2 is around the corner off the right side of the ledge, and it is Spectacular! Down climb a few feet off the ledge and traverse right a foot or two until you are staring up the beautiful finger crack splitting the wall. The next 20 feet is the business! Crank the perfect finger locks until you can get a thin hand jam as the crack widens. The upper part of the pitch is steep hands at an easier grade -ENJOY. The climb ends on a nice ledge. Go to the far side of the ledge to find a bolted anchor atop "Burning Daylight".


Protection 

Yellow and Orange TCUs at the crux. #.5 Camalot up to #2 Camalot for upper part of route (doubles would be plenty).



Photos of Belle Fourche Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
The Bozeman boys on Belle Fourche Buttress...
The Bozeman boys on Belle Fourche Buttress...
Fort Collins boys climbing the buttress.
Fort Collins boys climbing the buttress.
Matt is in to the good hands by now.  The orange colored section below him is the thin crux of the route.
Matt is in to the good hands by now. The orange c...
What could be more fun?
What could be more fun?
FoCo boys nearing the top.
FoCo boys nearing the top.
Comments on Belle Fourche Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Just Another Anonymous User
Sep 24, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This is why we climb!!

By nolteboy
Jan 25, 2006

If you're headed to the Tower, put this one on your list of "must do" routes! So beautiful to look at on the walk up to the base, you just can't believe it's .10b!

By juancho
May 14, 2008

nolte took the words out of my mouth. I remember my friend telling me we were going to do a classic 5.10. While we were walking I looked up and saw this crack and just about shit. WHAT'S THAT?? Is it 5.11? 5.12?
I couldn't believe t when he said no that's the 5.10 we're after. It is an awesome route.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 16, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

So good! So good! So good! From the belay this climb is super intimidating, but as soon as you commit to the crack it unfolds perfectly - a bomber jam, jug, or foot right where you need it. My favorite on the tower so far. Seemed fair for the grade, and anyone comfortable on 10b crack won't have a problem.

Nuts, set of TCUs, double set of cams from #0.5 camalot to #3 camalot. Maybe triples of #1-#3 camalot if you want to sew it up. Midway up the pitch I got a bomber green alien in a small crack to the left and was able to save a #1 for later.

By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Apr 5, 2009

What kind of sun exposure does this route get? Morning? Afternoon?

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 6, 2009

Re: sun exposure.

Morning, if I recall correctly.

This is a great little climb.

By Peter L Scott
Sep 23, 2011

This is a fantastic climb! I've done it several times. But if I only had a couple days at the tower I'd skip it. It's a classic Yosemite crack (crack splitting a face). I'd want to climb classic Tower cracks (crack in a dihedral).

By Sean Nelb
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 3, 2012

A direct 5.9 start is possible by starting at the base of the crack, before the approach slab. Although this lets you do the route in one long pitch, it featured poor rock and large, hollow flakes and is best avoided.