Belle Fourche Buttress 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Jeff G. on Sep 1, 2003 |
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Matt is in to the good hands by now. The orange c...
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route takes on the right side of the obvious yellow columns known collectively as the Belle Fourche Buttress. The first pitch is short and goes up the left side of a small block to a nice ledge with bolted anchors. Pitch 2 is around the corner off the right side of the ledge, and it is Spectacular! Down climb a few feet off the ledge and traverse right a foot or two until you are staring up the beautiful finger crack splitting the wall. The next 20 feet is the business! Crank the perfect finger locks until you can get a thin hand jam as the crack widens. The upper part of the pitch is steep hands at an easier grade -ENJOY. The climb ends on a nice ledge. Go to the far side of the ledge to find a bolted anchor atop "Burning Daylight".
Protection Yellow and Orange TCUs at the crux. #.5 Camalot up to #2 Camalot for upper part of route (doubles would be plenty).
Climber on the wonderful Belle Fourche. Picture t...
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The Bozeman boys on Belle Fourche Buttress...
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What could be more fun?
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Fort Collins boys climbing the buttress.
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FoCo boys nearing the top.
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| Comments on Belle Fourche Buttress |
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By nolteboy
Jan 25, 2006
| If you're headed to the Tower, put this one on your list of "must do" routes! So beautiful to look at on the walk up to the base, you just can't believe it's .10b! |
By juancho
May 14, 2008
| nolte took the words out of my mouth. I remember my friend telling me we were going to do a classic 5.10. While we were walking I looked up and saw this crack and just about shit. WHAT'S THAT?? Is it 5.11? 5.12?
I couldn't believe t when he said no that's the 5.10 we're after. It is an awesome route. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 16, 2008
rating: 5.10b
| So good! So good! So good! From the belay this climb is super intimidating, but as soon as you commit to the crack it unfolds perfectly - a bomber jam, jug, or foot right where you need it. My favorite on the tower so far. Seemed fair for the grade, and anyone comfortable on 10b crack won't have a problem.
Nuts, set of TCUs, double set of cams from #0.5 camalot to #3 camalot. Maybe triples of #1-#3 camalot if you want to sew it up. Midway up the pitch I got a bomber green alien in a small crack to the left and was able to save a #1 for later. |
By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Apr 5, 2009
| What kind of sun exposure does this route get? Morning? Afternoon? |
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 6, 2009
| Re: sun exposure.
Morning, if I recall correctly.
This is a great little climb. |
By Peter L Scott
Sep 23, 2011
| This is a fantastic climb! I've done it several times. But if I only had a couple days at the tower I'd skip it. It's a classic Yosemite crack (crack splitting a face). I'd want to climb classic Tower cracks (crack in a dihedral). |
By Sean Nelb
From: Devils Tower, WY
Sep 3, 2012
| A direct 5.9 start is possible by starting at the base of the crack, before the approach slab. Although this lets you do the route in one long pitch, it featured poor rock and large, hollow flakes and is best avoided. |
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