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More Deadly Nightshade than Stevie Nicks. This is a directissima on the South Face route. Start as for the South Face Route. Move up and right to a flake with a 2" crack, traverse 10' right, and surmount a bulge to better holds (5.9 R/X). Trend up and left in thin, incipient cracks and flakes into a left-facing, left-leaning corner which joins into the top of the second pitch of the South Face. It is sustained, pumpy, and hard to protect.
Rack to 2". This route may be top roped from the anchor above pitch 2 on the South Face route.
Aug 18, 2012
My friend Jack and I climbed together several times on the Maiden, we did some of the established routes, and we tried to pioneer a few of our own. This was perhaps our best contribution. We did a little cleaning on rappel and top roped the route before I made the first lead. Jack returned several years later and made the second lead with another partner. Although we climbed together many times, this was our only notable first ascent together. I am recording it now partly, so that I can see my name next to his but also because I believe that it is a suitable monument to his unbridled enthusiasm and boldness.
|By Joseph P. Crotty|
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 18, 2012
RIP Jack. David, thanks for posting.