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Castle Rock - North Side
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Bella Lugosi 
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Love at First Bite 
Music Box 
One Point Crack 
That Old Soft Shoe 
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Two Point Crack 

Bella Lugosi 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Don O'Kelley & Dave Davis, October 1970 FFA: (TR) Kevin Powell, 1977 FL: Craig Fry & Randy Vogel, January 1978
Page Views: 817
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 5, 2002
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Nearing the end of the crack on Bella Lugosi (5.11...

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Description 

Bouldery thin moves (crux) to gain the crack where the difficulty eases and good pro can be found. Near the top the crack peters out and a bolt [replaced 4/00 - ed.] is found to protect the moves to the top.

The name is a play on Bela Lugosi - the star of the classic 1931 horror movie "Dracula".


Location 

This climb lies 15' left of That Old Soft Shoe and is identified as a left-leaning thin crack starting about 15' off the ground.


Protection 

1 bolt (3/8") and a selection of smaller wires/cams for the route with gear to 3" for the anchor.



Photos of Bella Lugosi Slideshow Add Photo
Bella Lugosi, 5.11d
BETA PHOTO: Bella Lugosi, 5.11d
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By Randy
Jan 17, 2003

While a bolt to protect the crux bottom may be welcome, it certainly is not necessary; as Alan points out, it is more of a bouldering type start....But, when Craig and I first lead this, we had some stacked and tied off thin pins for pro: They actually held me. Easily removed by hand afterwards.

By Curt Shannon
Jan 25, 2003
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I did this route last week on TR. The Vogel Select guide book now calls this 5.12, as holds on the lower part are breaking off on a regular basis. I do know that one nice hold near the bottom of the crack is now gone--it was there when I first did this thing in 1983 or so.

Regards,

Curt Shannon

By Adam Kimmerly
Apr 27, 2007
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13

So, the attached Beta photo shows the line coming in from below and left (steeper) of the start of the crack (slabbier but way thin). I did this last year and came in from below and right. I'm curious how others have done this route.

By RTM
Jun 8, 2009

Great route! Great rock, climbing on esthetic features. I thought the bouldery start was a little out of character for the climb though. Didn't think it was "R" as the landing was flat and the first good gear stance was barely 15ft up, but then again, I did happen to have a crash pad handy! The rest of the climb was fun 5.9ish liebacking and balancy face.

By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Jan 30, 2010

One lead , and one solo. 88 and 89 respectively. At that time the crux felt C/D , the crack 7-ish , with some 9-ish friction off the top. Fun route.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 18, 2013

Definitely felt solid .11 through the crux - really thin. I don't think I would call it .12 though. At least by park standards. I didn't like the pro options at all and resorted to TR. It looked like you might be able to get a crappy wire down low about 10 feet up, at which point you are pulling down on thin sequential crimps. There was an option for a cam I found (while on TR) about 15 feet up. Really fun route, though! I managed to get it clean on TR after a few falls getting off the ground. I was thankful to be on TR. The route felt a little harder than Monaco in Indian Cove, but not a lot harder.

By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 18, 2013

Another option to consider is to bring a crashpad and just boulder up to the start of the crack.