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Bell Canyon Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Bell Canyon

	Cliffhanger TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flake of Fire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Handburger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Liberty Bell S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Lure of Lucre S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Old Time Revival T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Once Upon a Climb S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Silverado Trail TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Zinfandel TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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GPS:	38.5684, -122.4406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	7,058 total · 43/month
Shared By:	Floyd Hayes on Sep 27, 2010
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closed, on private property. Details

"The property has been sealed up and they put up about 40 no trespassing signs... the cops [and the owner of] St Helena Hospital, are VERY serious about the 'No Trespassing.' I guess there is a well here now that supplies all the water for the hospital." - Jason Stewart, May 2015

Description

Band of cliffs up to 45 feet high located on property owned by St. Helena Hospital, now CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC. West facing, thus shady in the morning and sunny in the afternoon. Because of the difficult approach (steep, loose and bushy in places, with copious blackberry and poison oak) and mediocre climbing, this crag isn't worth visiting unless you happen to live nearby or are eager to tick off new climbs in the area. A two-bolt anchor is present above the climbs on the left end of the formation. Climbs at the right end of the formation are best anchored from small trees at the top, with several unappealing options. Because the top of the cliff is more difficult to scramble to than the base, the climbs are usually led and then rappelled. Names of climbs are given as a convenience for the climbing community, but if anybody knows of earlier names (or objects to new names coined for old problems), I would happily rename (or delete) them.

Getting There

CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC. From the junction of Silverado Trail and Deer Park Road in St. Helena, drive 4.1 miles north on Deer Park Road, which eventually becomes Howell Mountain Road, to White Cottage Road. Turn left on White Cottage Road and continue 1.6 miles to the junction of Liparita Avenue on the left and Brookside Avenue on the right. Turn left on Liparita Avenue and drive 0.3 mile until you see some parking spaces on the left just in front of a gate and beside a pump house. Walk back toward White Cottage Road for about 20 feet to the end of the fence on the right side of the road and pick up the trail behind the fence. Follow the trail through some manzanita past a pump house, then downhill on a wide, zig-zagging trail about 0.3 mile. Shortly after crossing a stream, look for a pipe that exits a steep bank on the right side of the trail. Exit the trail at this point, boulder-hop across the stream through blackberry vines, and follow a climber's trail 0.1 mile across chaparral and down a couple of steep boulders to the base of a cliff. Scramble 0.1 mile down, then up along the base of the cliff, cross a steep sandy slope (potentially unstable and dangerous after a heavy rain), and continue along the base of the cliff to the main face.