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This is a varied and interesting route. It is not the best in the area, but it is well worth doing if it's crowded. It is in the shade all day long.
Start with a hard bouldery problem on sharp rock up to the first bolt, and continue on more sharp holds straight up the second bolt (sustained crux until this point).
Grab a nice, big jug left of the third bolt, then work back right to the arete and up much easier climbing to the fourth bolt. There is a long-ish distance between the third and fourth bolt, but the climbing is easy.
At the fourth bolt, choose between a big stem move left (harder, but the bolt is at your head) OR continue up the arete a little, then swing your feet on the face and scamper up.
Pass three more bolts up easier climbing to a two-bolt rap station.
After climbing up the ramp and passing Hound Dog, this is the obvious sport climb on the north side of the next gully.
7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
|By Kevin Gillest|
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
We climbed this route in the rain, perfect situation until you top out on the slab finish. Overall a fairly good route, but if Hound Dog is truly 11a, this route is easier.