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 ADVANCED
The Weasel Formation
Select Route:
Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 
Devastator Tower T 
Horus Tower T 
Little Weasel Spire T 
Live Free or Die Tower T 
Ozymandias T 
Rooster, The T 
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 

Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 360', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1 [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross, and Layne Potter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 851
Submitted By: USBRIT on Mar 13, 2003

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Tools of the trade, FA's are work,but more fun.

Description 

The route climbs the south face of Belfry Tower. See photo of tower on the Brits in the Belfry route.

P1) The first pitch follows a good crack system to the top of the pillar down left of the summit. The crack goes over a short roof at about 30'. Follow cracks and grooves past a couple of blocks(2 bolts) to a perfect 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" finishing crack. 160' 5.9 C1. The second followed this pitch free at about 5.11+ apart from a short wide section above the first overhang.
P2) A short easy pitch to a ledge at 35'.
P3) Move down left and then back right to a crack that leads to belays below an overhanging 5" crack. 60' 5.8.
P4) Aid the awkward crack for about 25' and then easier climbing leads into the belfry. 50' 5.6 C1.
P5) Climb the short sqeeze chimney on the north side. 30' 5.7 (this is last section of pitch 3 of Brits in the Belfry).

Descent: Rap down Brits in the Belfry.
FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross.(var leads), and Layne Potter

Protection 

Two sets of Friends with extra 1.5, 2, and 4. Two 5 and 6 Friends. Medium to large stoppers. Two 200' ropes for the rap down the Brits in the Belfry route on the north side.


Photos of Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. Slideshow Add Photo
Paul heading into the squeeze chimney on the final...
Paul heading into the squeeze chimney on the final...
Paul on first pitch. photo.. Layne Potter
Paul on first pitch. photo.. Layne Potter
Andrew following first pitch
Andrew following first pitch
Belfry Tower South Face
Belfry Tower South Face
Paul on first pitch
Paul on first pitch
Three desert rats on the summit,Layne,Paul and And...
Three desert rats on the summit,Layne,Paul and And...

Comments on Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. Add Comment
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By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Oct 12, 2004

Note to get to this Formation the directions in the guide are incorrect. Should read :- From the San Rafael Bridge go South for 6.1 miles (NOT 2.2) to road on right (west) with cattle guard Go 1 mile take right hand road. Go 6/10 of a mile take left road . go 1.8 miles to end of road and camp site .. Path up talus to the right.
By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jun 18, 2010

no known second ascent as of June 2010