|The Weasel Formation
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry
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Belfry Tower is located on the east side of the Weasel formation. It is recognised by its double belfry type summit. Two routes have been climbed on this tower. The following route is on the north side. From the approach path to the bottom of the rock(see also description in Wall Street to San Rafael Swell Desert Guide by Eric Bjornstad), walk east passing the south side of Belfry and around the end of the formation until one comes to a very striking fork lighting hand crack on the north side(see photo).
P1) Climb the superb crack to a good ledge and cave with bolt anchors. This will go all free at about 5.11. 120' C1.
P2) Follow grooves and cracks passing double stormed off anchors to a good ledge and bolt belays. 100' 5.9 C1.
P3) Continue up a short offwidth crack, and then climb an unusual squeeze chimney to the summit and a register. 90' 5.8.
FA: Paul Marshall and Paul Ross.
Two sets of Friends from #1 to #5, with extras from #2 to #3. One #6 could be useful. Set of wires, and two 200' ropes.
|Photos of Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry Slideshow
Pitch one Belfry Tower. route:- Brits in the Belfr...
On the Summit Of Belfry Tower. photo by Paul Marsh...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Brits in the Belfry: Sandy splitter han...
|Comments on Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry
Oct 12, 2004
Note ...The discription of how to get to this area The Weasel, Breezeway, Pinnacle is incorrect in the guide Desert Rock III. Should be From the San Rafael Bridge drive 6.1 miles (not 2.2) south to a road and cattle guard on the right. Go 1 mile to right turn.Go 6/10 of a mile take road to left.. Continue 1.8 miles to end of road and camp site. Path up to the formations up talis to the right.
|By Josh Ewing|
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 8, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Did the second ascent of Brits last weekend. We tried to free it, and didn't quite get a couple of moves. It will definitely go free at 11+. The thin crack moves at the end of the first pitch are low percentage when onsighting, due to tricky gear placements. The second pitch feels like solid 5.10 OW, with a sigificant choss factor thrown in between the hard sections. The final pitch is fun OW and squeeze chimeny. I'd probably give that last pitch 5.9.
Also keep in mind that this is an adventure route, despite how clean the first pitch is. The rest of the tower has significant loose rock...so be careful.
There's not much for rap rings or webbing on the rap anchors, so take extra.
Sweet summit....good work Paul, Andy, and Lane.