Type: | Sport, 2 pitches |
FA: | Greg Purnell, Richard Wright, 2000 |
Page Views: | 2,548 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Apr 17, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Behind The Sun begins in the furthest right sector of the wall, right of and below the prominent arete that forms the crux of Steve Landin's route "Floorshow".
BTS uses the first one or two pitches of Floorshow to gain the grassy ledge at 140 ft. This sector can be split into two pitches if desired, and both have double bolt anchor systems. At the grassy ledge, the belay anchor and rap station for BTS be found 30 ft to the right of Floorshow. Note carefully: the rap to the ground from the right hand station is a single 140 ft rap. If you cannot make this rap, use the Floorshow station because a second rap station is in place at 70 ft.
The climbing above the ledge on BTS starts by angling right from the belay a short way to surmount a small roof. Technical climbing and some powerful sequences follow in this crux pitch. I found this pitch to be a bit intimidating, being not overly bolted and run out in the 5.12b crux, frankly a bit scary. This third pitch ends at a sloping ledge, 90 ft above. What follows is a moderate, 5.10d/5.11a swim over a short head wall that leads into the dramatic dihedral above. Continue with easy climbing on big holds to the flat-out-airest belay in Clear Creek. A stem at the top of the dihedral clips the anchors with close to 300 ft of air below your butt.
Initially red pointed as separate pitches, the whole route was red pointed first by Greg and Rich Purnell in the Spring of 2000. At least two stars for the climbing, the continuity, the brilliant crux pitch, and the amazing air on the last pitch.
BTS uses the first one or two pitches of Floorshow to gain the grassy ledge at 140 ft. This sector can be split into two pitches if desired, and both have double bolt anchor systems. At the grassy ledge, the belay anchor and rap station for BTS be found 30 ft to the right of Floorshow. Note carefully: the rap to the ground from the right hand station is a single 140 ft rap. If you cannot make this rap, use the Floorshow station because a second rap station is in place at 70 ft.
The climbing above the ledge on BTS starts by angling right from the belay a short way to surmount a small roof. Technical climbing and some powerful sequences follow in this crux pitch. I found this pitch to be a bit intimidating, being not overly bolted and run out in the 5.12b crux, frankly a bit scary. This third pitch ends at a sloping ledge, 90 ft above. What follows is a moderate, 5.10d/5.11a swim over a short head wall that leads into the dramatic dihedral above. Continue with easy climbing on big holds to the flat-out-airest belay in Clear Creek. A stem at the top of the dihedral clips the anchors with close to 300 ft of air below your butt.
Initially red pointed as separate pitches, the whole route was red pointed first by Greg and Rich Purnell in the Spring of 2000. At least two stars for the climbing, the continuity, the brilliant crux pitch, and the amazing air on the last pitch.
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