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 ADVANCED
Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mudwall)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Behind the Curtain T,S 
DEFCON 1 T,S 
Horse and Pony Show, The T 
Mudflap Girl T 
Orangina T 
Stardust T 
White Dads On Rope T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Behind the Curtain 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Chris Van Leuven, Mike Schneiter, Katty Guzman, Lynn Sanson
New Route: Yes
Season: most seasons
Page Views: 1,640
Submitted By: chris van leuven on Aug 21, 2009

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Josh Gross starting P3 (160 ft., 5.12b).

Description 

P1: 5.10, 100 feet. Pro small to 2.5", #5 Friend useful low. In your face off the deck. Overhanging.

P: 2 5.11b, 70 feet 1 each 0.4-0.5" optional. Crux is bolted, as is most of pitch.

P3: 5.12b, 160 feet. Not too much trad pro, generally green Aliens, C3s and up to 1.75". Steep! Cruxes throughout, including pumpy finish. Some cruxes are gear protected; including the roof (green Alien to 1.25").

No nuts.
"Nesting" placements recommended.

Location 

Grizzly Creek Wall, Glenwood Canyon, CO. Start 20 feet right of Horse and Pony Show (III 5.12a; FA Michael Schneiter and Chris Van Leuven). Or, walk left along base of wall and look for route second from left. Marked by bolt 15 feet up, and more above.

Protection 

15 QDs including long runners, and medium draws. 2 ropes, 60m recommended. Blue Alien - 2.5" Friend, #5 Friend for P1 (keeps you off the deck). Extra green Alien to #0.5 Camalot. C3s useful. All placements in horizontals. Belays are 2-3 bolts. Generally bolts are 1/2" X 3 3/4", and belays are on spacious ledges. Rap the route.


Photos of Behind the Curtain Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Gross on P3, 5.12b, 160 ft.  <br />Mixed bolts and pro to 2"; especially green Alien to #0.5 Camalot.
Josh Gross on P3, 5.12b, 160 ft.
Mixed bolts and ...
Chris seconding P2, 5.11b.
Chris seconding P2, 5.11b.
Josh Gross following P1; 5.10c, 100 ft. <br />This pitch is surprisingly steep and very pumpy. Bring a #5 Friend for near the deck. Crux is low, but it stays on you the whole way.
Josh Gross following P1; 5.10c, 100 ft.
...
Chris leading the 100ft p1.
Chris leading the 100ft p1.
Josh Gross on P1, 5.10. This pitch will keep your attention the whole way.
Josh Gross on P1, 5.10. This pitch will keep your ...
Chris working up into the roofs and placing gear out right!
Chris working up into the roofs and placing gear o...
Josh Gross on P2, .11b. This pitch is basically sport bolted. That said, it's not easy, and is a bit sporty. Thin moves and long pulls define this pitch.
Josh Gross on P2, .11b. This pitch is basically sp...
Josh Gross, P3. He's a 120' out of 160' on lead. Those last bolts protect 11+ terrain; go right at final bolt!
Josh Gross, P3. He's a 120' out of 160' on lead. T...
Josh Gross on P3. This pitch gets wild at the the roof located about 80 feet up. There's a series of roofs, really, and some are gear protected. The final crux is somethin'.
Josh Gross on P3. This pitch gets wild at the the ...
Pitch 1 great steep 5.10!
Pitch 1 great steep 5.10!
Josh Gross P3. Steep and unrelenting!
Josh Gross P3. Steep and unrelenting!
Chris heading into the first roof gnar!
Chris heading into the first roof gnar!
P3. Those roofs are gear protected.
P3. Those roofs are gear protected.
Behind The Curtain.
Behind The Curtain.

Comments on Behind the Curtain Add Comment
Show which comments
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 21, 2009

You guys are animals.
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Oct 25, 2010

Sick route!