Behind the Curtain
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|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Josh Gross, Chris Van Leuven, Mike Schneiter, Katty Guzman, Lynn Sanson|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||most seasons|
|Submitted By: ||chris van leuven on Aug 21, 2009|
Josh Gross starting P3 (160 ft., 5.12b).
P1: 5.10, 100 feet. Pro small to 2.5", #5 Friend useful low. In your face off the deck. Overhanging.
P: 2 5.11b, 70 feet 1 each 0.4-0.5" optional. Crux is bolted, as is most of pitch.
P3: 5.12b, 160 feet. Not too much trad pro, generally green Aliens, C3s and up to 1.75". Steep! Cruxes throughout, including pumpy finish. Some cruxes are gear protected; including the roof (green Alien to 1.25").
"Nesting" placements recommended.
Grizzly Creek Wall, Glenwood Canyon, CO. Start 20 feet right of Horse and Pony Show (III 5.12a; FA Michael Schneiter and Chris Van Leuven). Or, walk left along base of wall and look for route second from left. Marked by bolt 15 feet up, and more above.
15 QDs including long runners, and medium draws. 2 ropes, 60m recommended. Blue Alien - 2.5" Friend, #5 Friend for P1 (keeps you off the deck). Extra green Alien to #0.5 Camalot. C3s useful. All placements in horizontals. Belays are 2-3 bolts. Generally bolts are 1/2" X 3 3/4", and belays are on spacious ledges. Rap the route.
Josh Gross on P3, 5.12b, 160 ft.
Mixed bolts and ...
Josh Gross following P1; 5.10c, 100 ft.
Josh Gross on P1, 5.10. This pitch will keep your ...
Josh Gross on P2, .11b. This pitch is basically sp...
Josh Gross on P3. This pitch gets wild at the the ...
Josh Gross P3. Steep and unrelenting!
P3. Those roofs are gear protected.
Josh Gross, P3. He's a 120' out of 160' on lead. T...
Chris leading the 100ft p1.
Pitch 1 great steep 5.10!
Chris seconding P2, 5.11b.
Chris heading into the first roof gnar!
Chris working up into the roofs and placing gear o...
Behind The Curtain.
|Comments on Behind the Curtain
|By BJ Sbarra|
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 21, 2009
You guys are animals.