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UIAA Fall Ratings

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By keredea
Jul 29, 2007
This is me.

I recently took a short fall (about 6 feet) on a relatively easy lead climb (5.8) and wanted to know how to rate it for my rope log so I can factor that in to when I need to retire the rope. I've looked around on this site, rockclimbing.com, and the UIAA web site without really finding anything helpful. Any information on how to record this fall would be great.

I'm glad that I down climbed a little before the fall, otherwise it would have been more like 15 or 20 feet. The route should really be more like a 5.9+.

Thanks for any help you can give.

By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Jul 29, 2007
Jonny Crane

The most simple formula for fall factor is:

(distance fallen) divided by (amount of rope in system)

Examples:
You're 30 feet above your belayer. You're 3 feet above your last piece. You fall 6 feet. Fall factor is 6/30= 0.2

You're 10 feet above your belayer. You're 3 feet above your last piece. You fall 6 feet. Fall factor is 6/10= 0.6

You're 3 feet above your belayer on pitch 2. You have no protection in besides the belayer's anchor. You fall 6 feet. Fall factor is 6/3= 2.0

By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Jul 29, 2007
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth. <br /><br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve. <br /><br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger.<br />

I wouldn't view a 6 footer as an issue.

In the future for a larger fall, what I'd look for is your manufacturer's info; I view the UIAA as a set of standards. I think you'll find the dyanmic ropes on the market are made to exceed the UIAA.

I don't think the fall factor is the issue here??

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From Escondido, Ca
Jul 29, 2007
So Cal sunset...from my front door...

Contemporary climbing ropes (10mm) can take countless falls. I wouldn't worry too much about keeping a "fall journal" for your rope. Just keep an eye out for the obvious signs of wear and tear (flat spots, cuts, etc), keep it out of the dirt, store it out of direct sunlight and you'll be all right. Switching lead ends for sport stuff helps too.

By keredea
Jul 29, 2007
This is me.

I was pretty sure it wouldn't be much of an issue, but I wanted to make sure as it was my first fall and I just didn't know. Thanks for all the info, guys.

By brenta
From Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2007
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di Brenta.  October 1977.

This Beal page has some useful info.


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