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By Christian H.
May 23, 2008

Is setting up a top rope anchor something I can learn from a book well enough to do safely? And if so, can anyone recommend a good climbing book to learn from?

By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
May 23, 2008

Christian H. wrote:
Is setting up a top rope anchor something I can learn from a book well enough to do safely? And if so, can anyone recommend a good climbing book to learn from?


Absolutely. In fact, if you learn if from a book and practice it yourself, you will be way more confident and competent than learning it from someone else, who may have bad habits (or safe, but unusual simplifications/techniques that a beginner shouldn't use at first).

Lots of books these days, but How to Rock Climb by John Long will really tell you everything you need to free climb safely. It's short too. Read it until the pages are dog eared and worn and practice every knot in it until you can do them with your eyes closed. Freedom of the Hills will tell you everything you ever want to know about the rest of climbing.

There are a lot of specialty books about anchors and self-rescue and aid climbing, etc. that are useful too, but those two will not steer you wrong. Hopefull John's is still published, I'm guessing it is.

By Josh Brown
May 23, 2008

christian,

I second old dude on JL how to rock climb and his anchors book. heidi pesterfeld has a book on lead climbing (i think lead climbing is actually the titel)that also goes over anchors and i'm sure your eventually get into leading so buying the book will not be a waste. freedom of the hills has other good points but covers so many other subjects it is long and pricey, i own the 4th edition and am not sure how different the newer versions are but probably worth thumbing through at the bookstore. i sound like an old bastard but even small public libraries have interlibrary loans so you can get all these books for free by doing that. good luck and be safe

By Evan1984
May 23, 2008

JL "climbing anchors" is awesome. I would read it and read it again. If anything, its too indepth for beginner, but the conversation and practice on anchor building theory is very important to becoming competent. I tested myself by looking at the pictures of different acnchor and seeing if I could guess Long's commentary on them.

Anyway, yes, you can learn all you need to know for basic anchors out of a book. You can also learn all you need to know from a good partner. However, the best is to do both. Keep in mind that because you partner does it doesn't mean its right. Ask tons of questions(in a respectful in non-accusatory manner is best).

I'd say find a place with bolted anchors and start there. Trad placements are a little more nuanced and should probably be done under the supervision of an experienced climber to start.

Cheers

By Greg Speer
From Fort Collins, CO
May 24, 2008
Cat's Eye toprope at Horsetooth

I suggest Craig Luebben's "Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide". Very clearly written and the illustrations, I feel, are better than in JL's book on anchors. I agree the latter is a good book though.


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