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By lucas slowinski
Oct 5, 2009

i wana know what advice or tips you can give me to help me learn


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By Will Anglin
From Gunnison, CO
Oct 5, 2009
Brass offsets = Gold

Climb as much as possible on everything and anything you can find


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By Brandy Persson
From Vail, CO
Oct 5, 2009
My and my boy

Welcome to the light! Rock climbing is the greatest sport I ever took up. The physical and mental challenges that you endure are unparalleled, I think mainly because your life and limb are the consequences of a mistake.

Agreed. Climb as much as possible and climb everything. I think for beginners, footwork tends to be a problem and it's something you can work on straight out of the blocks. Something that helped me when I began, was to climb slabby boulder problems no-handed. It resembles the footwork needed to climb overhung stuff. It teaches you how to use and trust your feet.

Breathe. Coming back to the breath (belly breathing) helps you move more efficiently, effectively, and calms you when you get nervous.

Don't allow negative, self-defeating thoughts to enter your mind. Don't get discouraged. Stay in the moment. It's not always about getting to the top, but what you learned on the way there.

Get with safe, reliable, experienced climbers that can guide you and teach you from their mistakes. You will form some of the most meaningful relationships through rock climbing because after all, you place your lives in one anothers hands.

Above all else, be safe, have fun, and explore your mind, body, and all possibilities. Happy climbing!


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By Evan1984
Oct 5, 2009

Before you do anything else, become a rock solid belayer. Then, buy a harness, helmet, belay device, and shoes. This is what you'll need to have to go climbing with a partner.

I'll extend Will's advice to say "...with anyone who is willing to take you and safe." There are so many knowledgeable people, you should learn from as many as you can. Just make sure that they are responsible. Remember that there is more than one way to skin a cat, so be inquisitve, but not accusatory.

How do you know they're safe? Well, read a quality book(I'd recommend Luebben's Rock CLimbing:mastering the basic skills), and/or take a good intro class. This should give you a general sense of what good safety practices are in terms of climbing. Then, use your common sense. A safe partner will have good reasons for doing what he is doing and won't get defensive if asked politely.

Evan


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By Michael Stacy
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 5, 2009

Finding someone who enjoys mentoring a beginner would obviously be good.

Learn how to lead climb and lead belay as soon as possible.

Read how-to-books. Books on knots. Books on rappelling. Books on placing gear and building anchors. Books on self rescue. I realize this type of reading can seem a little dry but it will pay dividends when it comes time to put it into practice.

Many people neglect the wealth of written material available and rely solely on others to teach them everything. Having some general knowledge obtained from reading climbing related how-to-books will make your mentors job so much easier and he/she will be much more willing to include you in their climbing plans.


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By Jim Gloeckler
From Denver, Colo.
Oct 5, 2009

Look for partners with high I.Q.'s. I believe that is one of the best pieces of advise I could give you. You will benefit in a bunch of areas if you do that, saftey being one of the most important.


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By Mike Noth
From Des Moines, IA
Oct 5, 2009
Mike Noth

Feet feet feet feet feet - can't be stressed enough. Not finding a hand-hold is a good sign you are forgetting to use your feet. It is easier to stand up on your feet than to haul yourself up by your arms...


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By clackmon
Oct 5, 2009
flora st circa 1995

every time you clip a bolt god kills a kitten


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By JPVallone
Oct 5, 2009

Go to the Rock Gym and find a hot, sexy rope gun, you will find out soon enough that most men climb for the chicks, Remember to talk about yourself as much as possible and take your shirt off when your yelling beta at the hottie in the sports bra. It works everytime, ask any homelsess, jobless, broke climbing bum, Follow this advice and you will be well on your way to rock stardom.

If that doesn't work, hire a guide and read a bunch of books, but education doesn't work without application, so get some miles under your belt and use common sense.


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By jmac
Oct 5, 2009

Absoultly do not get/keep a job. Seriously.


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By Matt Toensing
From gunnison co
Oct 5, 2009

Drink copious amounts of beer.


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By pacoarg9
From west hartford, ct
Oct 19, 2009

Don't get mad and upset when you can't climb something you think you should be able to. Climbing is hard. There will be times when you feel weak and will not be able to climb well. Instead of getting mad and being in a crappy mood, give the rock some respect and laugh at the fact that you are in the middle of the woods climbing on rocks.

At the end of the day, it should be about having fun. And in my short two years of climbing experience i have seen too many people out there have their climbing day ruined because they got shut down on something. Curse, complain, and b*tch all you want , but remember, no one is making you climb these rocks.

Have Fun!!..I would recommend learning to set up top rope anchors before learning to lead climb.


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By Greg D
From Redgardentown, Co
Oct 19, 2009
Free soloing in NYC 20 years ago, before I knew what climbing was .

Don't fall.


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By Rob Kepley
From Westminster,CO
Oct 19, 2009
Spearhead summit

JPVallone wrote:
find a hot, sexy rope gun,

You realize they have no clue what you are talking about?


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Oct 20, 2009
Hiking

1. take a belay class because to be a good climbing partner, you need to be a good belay
2. find a mentor, someone who has been climbing for years and is happy to help you learn the ropes (no pun intended)
3. read as much literature on the sport as possible
4. trust your feet! they are your biggest asset!
5. try all types of climbing and dont buy into the trad vs sport argument just go out and climb
6. develop solid ethics that make you comfortable
7. dont take stupid risks and develop your own definition of stupid
8. drink lots of beer after climb (thats optional but suggested)
9. have fun
10. and only climb with safe people and trust your gut feeling.


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By Buff Johnson
From Coniferous, CO
Oct 20, 2009
What happens when you:<br />1) have nothing to do<br />2) own a sharp knife<br />3) have a large lime<br />4) own a patient cat<br />5) drink too much tequila<br />6) and it's football season?<br /><br />(An e-mail I received; just know that no cat was harmed in the carving of this lime. Dogs Rule!!)

don't ever climb with me, I kill kittens from time to time



always, always, always keep the brake hand on the rope when you belay your partner.
Be the most attentive belayer you can be.


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By Matt Bolt
From Thuwal, Saudi Arabia
Oct 20, 2009
Unnamed 5.9 at Blue Gramma

Greg D wrote:
Don't fall.


Don't take Greg's advice literally.

Falling is a huge part of climbing. I tried to never fall when I started climbing and it really slowed my mental progression (as a climber that is).

My advice for a new leader is, don't yell TAKE every time you get to a difficult section. You will want to use reasonable judgment and make sure you are on routes that are well protected and allow for clean falls. But unless you climb until you peel off, you will never know what your physical ability really is. And it starts bad habits from the beginning.

Oh and have fun, thats why we climb anyways!


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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Nov 1, 2009

Do as Mr. Bolt says.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nov 2, 2009
Looking down from Notchtop

A much more sensible plan, and one some of the guys that climbed with the Stonemasters used, was to boulder to gain strength and route finding ability. Any climb can be broken down into a series of moves like a line of boulder problems. You can get very strong doing that. Then, when you go out and lead something, you aren't falling at all.

You don't want to fall on gear, ever, intentionally. That's where "The leader does not fall" comes from. People have died this year falling on gear. Some didn't have enough gear and others pulled their gear. So as a new leader, you should not be testing that part of your system with falls.

If you are falling at the cruxes, you should probably boulder a little more.


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By Justin Cantrall
From Smoulder, CO
Nov 2, 2009
Ready to Rock!

Stich wrote:
You don't want to fall on gear, ever, intentionally. That's where "The leader does not fall" comes from. People have died this year falling on gear. Some didn't have enough gear and others pulled their gear. So as a new leader, you should not be testing that part of your system with falls. If you are falling at the cruxes, you should probably boulder a little more.


Correction: "the leader must not fall" comes from an era of hemp ropes that would break under the force that a leader fall imparts to it. Thankfully those days have passed and we can lead-climb in relative safety on our stretchy nylon ropes.

Stich is right though, at this point in the game you should definitely not be falling on gear. You probably shouldn't be lead-climbing in general until you've been on the rock for a little while and have learned how to climb safely.

Read everything you can. I recommend _Advanced Rock Climbing_ by Craig Luebben and John Long; _How to Rock Climb_ by John Long, and _Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills_ (various authors, any ed.)

Also, learn the basic climbing knots asap: www.animatedknots.com is a great resource. Get to the point that you can tie them blindfolded in a cold shower, and recognize them when you're cold and stressed out. The knot that you tie will be life or death to you and your partner; conversely, the knot that you don't tie and don't check (or don't recognize) will also be life or death for you and your partner. Not trying to scare you, just saying to know your knots!

It seems to me that bouldering is more dangerous than climbing: the risk of ankle injury, etc. is not trivial. A number of people here have recommended you to boulder instead to get stronger: I'd counter that top-roping helps you to become a stronger climber too, in much safer conditions.

Don't forget to have fun: that's why we do it! Find a mentor that will be willing to take you on some climbs and show you what you need to learn. You've already found a great resource for that here on mp.

Cheers,
JC

PS. Footwork! Footwork! Footwork! :)


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By WiledHorse
From NoGo
Nov 2, 2009

my advice is to take anything you read on MP.com with a grain of salt.


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By Greg D
From Redgardentown, Co
Nov 2, 2009
Free soloing in NYC 20 years ago, before I knew what climbing was .

Stich wrote:
You don't want to fall on gear, ever, intentionally.


I don't agree with that. I made it a point to fall on gear intentionally for several months to improve confidence and falling skills. Overall, this improved my climbing quite a bit and I never had a piece pull. But, YMMV.

Stich wrote:
So as a new leader, you should not be testing that part of your system with falls.


I do agree with that.


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By England
From Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 2, 2009
Alpine toothpick.

Greg D wrote:
I don't agree with that. I made it a point to fall on gear intentionally for several months to improve confidence and falling skills. Overall, this improved my climbing quite a bit and I never had a piece pull. But, YMMV. I do agree with that.

+1 agreed


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By Richard Fernandez
From Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 2, 2009
Crack Test Dummies EPC

WiledHorse wrote:
my advice is to take anything you read on MP.com with a grain of salt.


...a dash of pepper, some wine and a light dessert should also help.

Getting out, not the gym, as often as possible with experienced climbers is the best way. Reading is great, but being in the field has a way of messing with your head. Climbers consider this a community service and are glad to "help a brother out".

IT TAKES TIME, there is no substitute for this aspect of our sport.

Eat, Sleep, Breath Climbing!

Oh, and start planning a trip somewhere BAD ASS!

Have fun!


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By flynn
Nov 2, 2009

Climb yourself silly, and absolutely with safe, patient mentors. Ask skrillions of questions every time you go out. Do slabby climbs that will force you onto your feet; the South Platte taught me to climb with my feet.

Buy yourself some cheap life insurance: a day with a really good instructor. Bob Culp at Boulder Mountaineering, and Jack Roberts, have been doing this forever. Go on this lesson with a favorite partner. That way, you both know the same things, and you each know what the other one knows how to do. You won't find yourself in a dire situation, blindly assuming that your pard knows how to rescue the two of you while s/he's thinking the same thing.

Know that the days when you climb like an eagle will far outnumber the "goat with a broken leg" days. It just gets better!


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By jmac
Nov 2, 2009

Matt Bolt wrote:
Don't take Greg's advice literally. Falling is a huge part of climbing. I tried to never fall when I started climbing and it really slowed my mental progression (as a climber that is). My advice for a new leader is, don't yell TAKE every time you get to a difficult section. You will want to use reasonable judgment and make sure you are on routes that are well protected and allow for clean falls. But unless you climb until you peel off, you will never know what your physical ability really is. And it starts bad habits from the beginning. Oh and have fun, thats why we climb anyways!


I am trying to break this habbit now after 4 years of climbing. Its tought to break.


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