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How to attract a trad mentor

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By Dave Holliday
From Louisville, CO
Sep 15, 2006
Natasha enjoying the snow after yet another blizzard.

There's a great discussion on rc.com on how to attract and keep a trad mentor. Interesting advice.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/119578


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By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2006
A Giraffe takes in the sunset in Tanzania

I thought the best advice would have been:
Be 22-35, female, cute, and single...

While this may sound sexist, it isn't meant to be.
From my honest and practical observations it is statistically effective.


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By Jo Holloway
Sep 15, 2006

Tony Bubb wrote:
I thought the best advice would have been: Be 22-35, female, cute, and single... While this may sound sexist, it isn't meant to be. From my honest and practical observations it is statistically effective.


Statistically effective? What was your null hypothesis? Which tests did you apply? What was the size of the population you used for your analysis?


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By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2006
A Giraffe takes in the sunset in Tanzania

Jo Holloway wrote:
Statistically effective? What was your null hypothesis? Which tests did you apply? What was the size of the population you used for your analysis?


As you well know, when the sample is 100% positive, meaning a perfect correlation, even a t-test is not required. While I admit that this does not prove causality, one can make a correlative conclusion.


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By Josh Squire
From East Boston, MA
Jan 17, 2007
This climb is called Toe Jam. Super nice climb. I thought it was a little stiff, but then again, everything is stiff there.

THe op was pretty comprehensive, but I will reiterate this one. I like when my second takes the initiative to keep busy and if he/she doesn't know what to do, they ask. I hate when people just stand around and expect you to do everything just because you are the leader.

Josh


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Left Hand Canyon, CO
Jan 17, 2007
dog tongue

Tony Bubb wrote:
As you well know, when the sample is 100% positive, meaning a perfect correlation, even a t-test is not required. While I admit that this does not prove causality, one can make a corralative conclusion.


Check out the big ol' vocab on Tony. Sweet burn dude!


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By handtruck
From Boulder, CO
Jan 18, 2007
a handtruck...

Josh Squire wrote:
I like when my second takes the initiative to keep busy and if he/she doesn't know what to do, they ask. I hate when people just stand around and expect you to do everything just because you are the leader. Josh


Sounds like you have been out climbing with my ex-wife.


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By Jo Holloway
Jan 18, 2007

Hank Caylor wrote:
Check out the big ol' vocab on Tony. Sweet burn dude!


It would have been sweeter if Tony could've spelled "correlative" correctly.

Dude.


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By Buff Johnson
From Coniferous, CO
Jan 18, 2007
What happens when you:<br />1) have nothing to do<br />2) own a sharp knife<br />3) have a large lime<br />4) own a patient cat<br />5) drink too much tequila<br />6) and it's football season?<br /><br />(An e-mail I received; just know that no cat was harmed in the carving of this lime. Dogs Rule!!)

OK, aside from the expert scientific testimony being provided, how about getting involved with your community and getting to know people that like to go out and climb???

I know, it's a theory of mine that I've been tossing around for a few years; though maybe not backed up with the latest of IBM mainframe standards using the fastest of micro-chip processors to analyze the data; but, hey, it just might work...

If not, then buy a Mac!!!


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By J pee
From Capitola, CA
Jan 18, 2007
JP doing battle with his first 5.11 onsight.

More experienced climbers are likely to take you out climbing if:
1. You are psyched and willing to take the sharp end.
2. You have a genuine interest in learning or knowledge of history in "trad" climbing.
3. If you are mildly amusing and fun to climb with.
4. Show your gratitude by buying a few pints every now and then.
5. Prove you are in it for the adventure.
6. You can keep up (or almost).
7. Experienced "trad" climber is desperate for a partner.
8. You're a young, hot piece of @$$


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By SirVato
From Toyota-rado
Jan 18, 2007
Cheeeeech!!!

More experienced climbers are likely to take you out climbing if:
4. Show your gratitude by buying a few pints every now and then.
7. Experienced "trad" climber is desperate for a partner.

These are key. The Sun is typically the after climb stop and I sure am a sucker for the beers there!!


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By Tom Hanson
From Castle Rock, CO
Jan 18, 2007
Climber Drawing

It is often helpful for the climber who is searching for a trad mentor to be willing to supply the pre and post climbing inebriants


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By Guy Humphrey
From Fort Collins CO
Jan 18, 2007
The Devil's Golfball near sunset...

-A high pain threshold is helpful, for early morning starts, heavy packs, and long approaches.

I recently took out a friend interested in learning to trad climb, for his first multi-pitch experience. I dragged him up a 8 pitch alpine climb in RMNP. He did very well, even after he lost his breakfast at the first belay due to the attitude and fast pace.


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Left Hand Canyon, CO
Jan 18, 2007
dog tongue

Yeah Jo, I'm a moron for not catching that and Tony is an illiterate freak. Sweet retro-burn

dudette.....


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By tom selleck
Jan 18, 2007

How to attract and keep a trad mentor? That topic is gay cubed.


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By Charles Dalgleish
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 27, 2007
Flakes of Wrath in Moab Utah.

Sorry but any man trying to have sex with me would certainly be ruled out as a climbing pupil of mine. Women would probably be discouraged by my wife.

Outside of that, well, I've brought roughly 20+ people into the sport, and got roughly half of them into trad, with about five of those continuing to climb after we went separate ways.

Key on my list to spend my time teaching someone is that they want to learn. Next would be that they are capable of learning. If I show then how to tie in 10 times, have them repeat it, and do the same 3 more days, I "expect" them to be able to consistently tie in after that. People that are willing to push their limits, but also ones that are willing to say "no" always impress me. If someone is feeling sketched, I would hope they tell me. If it's a reasonable fear, I'm more than happy to back off, but if they are afraid to try a highstep because they may swing 2 feet if they fall, then that's something I can't "teach".

I LOVE when people ask questions. That said, I try and lay all things out so they don't have to, but make sure that it's sunk in by asking them to repeat/demonstrate a slight variation of what we just went over.

I've threatened to make my buddy carry a small pig packed with corona and ice to the top of castleton approach, explaining it would be about 80+lbs, and he didn't even blink, just said if that's all that was required for him to get the chance to climb it, so be it. That kind of attitude is hard to turn down.

Girls are great when it comes to learning to use their body to their advantage once they understand that climbing isn't all arm strength. But I wont climb with them if they aren't willing to try something that I KNOW to be in their ability level.

That all said, I love people that treat the sport the same as I.


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By colin tuck
From Laramie
Nov 2, 2007

Okay, here is how not to attract a trad mentor. Well, I am barely qualified to mentor anyway, being better at getting lost and falling than teaching, but...
Say, I really want to learn to climb trad. Then, hang dog on top rope cause you are tired (or scared?). Then, fuck up belaying cause you are distracted. Then, panic on a nice ledge at the top of a 1 pitch climb as I set the rappel. Then, back off,just after harnessing up, the multi-pitch 5.6 in LCC that you were excited about because you are hung over (again, scared). Finally, decide in the middle of a great climb in the Valley that you are scared and want to go down when it is a beautiful day and your two partners are having fun. This person was not a total beginner either, he had been gym and sport climbing for like 5-6 years, and top roped 10a reasonably well. Patience fades.


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By Tim D Danley
From silt, co
Jan 27, 2008
Roman Headwall<br />

I say, just flash em your tits.


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By Heather Haynes
From Colorado Springs
Jan 27, 2008
yep!! that pretty much sums it up!

Hey great advise everyone...fun thread Dave!

Colin...hope this hasn't actually happened to you..

Seeing that i will statistically attract a trad mentor...I have another question:

What qualities should I look for in a mentor? What kinds of questions should i ask?

i should add: WITHOUT finding guys who want to hook up:)


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By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Jan 27, 2008
A Giraffe takes in the sunset in Tanzania

My first reaction would be to say to tell the guys you are a lesbian, but that would just make it worse. Instead, talk a lot about your boyfriend if yoiu have one, and make sure to climb with guys who are totally into thier wife or girlfriend. That keeps the confusion about what kind of partner you are looking for to a minimum. Most boys can handle straight talk- most like to know where they stand, so tell them.

Second of all, I'm not sure that asking them a lot will solve any issues- most know how to say what you want to hear, so be watchful for actions, which speak louder than words, and ask FOF's (freinds of friends) about potential partners.

One other thing that might work is looking for 'partner wanted on March XX' type of posts and spending days climbing with people who seem to be experineced. They are looking to get out and are probably willing to trade knowledge for a safe belay.

And if you hit it off as pals, who knows? You may end up with a climbing partner in the future.


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By Zed
From Gotham City
Jan 27, 2008

Tony Bubb wrote:
My first reaction would be to say to tell the guys you are a lesbian, but that would just make it worse. Instead, talk a lot about your boyfriend if yoiu have one, and make sure to climb with guys who are totally into thier wife or girlfriend. That keeps the confusion about what kind of partner you are looking for to a minimum. Most boys can handle straight talk- most like to know where they stand, so tell them.


This is patronizing BS.


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By Shumin Wu
Jan 27, 2008

I'll second Tony on looking for experienced climbers who needs a partner. As for specific types of mentor, I'm in the school of thoughts that if you are an eager and independent learner/climber, you'll learn trad leading in no time and almost any safe trad climber will do.

To Tony, do you think if she did what you recommended, she'd be just as statistically unattractive to a trad mentor as the rest of us?


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By Bill Olszewski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008
Rrrrrrrrrrrr

Heather - look for the kind of guy (or lady) who has that quiet confidence, not the person who thinks they know everything and wants everyone to know it, but someone who is comfortable in any situation. All the real trad masters I've met are unassuming people, friendly and easy to talk to, sometimes with a look in their eyes that betrays a few near fatalities; they've come through stronger for the experience and are just happy to be alive and have someone to come home to at the end of the day.

Usually, the type of mentor you seek will have no shortage of partners. Observe; the type of guy you're not looking for IS looking for you. The type of guy you ARE looking for is most likely found in a small group or with his partner, minding their own business, unless you're doing something truly dangerous thereby attracting their attention. A good place to run into a potential trad mentor is by making friends with your "neighbors" around the campfire. And of course their are plenty of female trad masters to be found as well.

Ken - I don't know what happened in the dark and distant past to make you and Tony such enemies, but do you really have to counter every time he posts? I understand from this and many a previous post that you can't stand anything even approaching a stereotype concerning men and women; nothing wrong with that. But does any of this really need to be a crusade? Just an observation.


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By Zed
From Gotham City
Jan 27, 2008

Bill Olszewski wrote:
Ken - I don't know what happened in the dark and distant past to make you and Tony such enemies, but do you really have to counter every time he posts? I understand from this and many a previous post that you can't stand anything even approaching a stereotype concerning men and women; nothing wrong with that. But does any of this really need to be a crusade? Just an observation.


There is no dark, distant past between Tony and me. I have never even met him in person, nor do I have a problem with him. He made a really patronizing comment, and I called him on it. Had that comment come from you, I would have called you on it. Don't read more into it then there actually is. BTW, calling this a crusade is a bit dramatic.


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By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Jan 27, 2008
A Giraffe takes in the sunset in Tanzania

Shumin Wu wrote:
To Tony, do you think if she did what you recommended, she'd be just as statistically unattractive to a trad mentor as the rest of us?


Nah, Sometimes I just climb with whoever is around/available last minute, and sometimes I prefer climbing with women and I'm happily married. Female and male company can be a little different even if the relationship is platonic. Maybe it's just me and my sexism? My behavior tends to be fairly 'male.'
Joseffa (not my wife) and I have climbed together for 15+ years, and it started out with me as a 'mentor.' Jo climbes backcountry, big wall, alpine, has flashed 5.12a, etc... Now I have a great partner who would be considered a 'journeyman' level climber in most circles.

Ken Cangi wrote:
This is patronizing BS.


I'm not sure what is patronizing about giving advice that was solicited for... But it seems everything I say is a problem for you, and all your responses are to me. Oh well.


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By Zed
From Gotham City
Jan 27, 2008

Tony Bubb wrote:
I'm not sure what is patronizing about giving advice that was solicited for... But it seems everything I say is a problem for you, and all your responses are to me. Oh well.


Tony,

For a self-proclaimed intellectual with two degrees and expertise in just about every topic that crosses these pages, you can be quite clueless at times.


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