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First Lead Climb

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By Bad Sock Puppet
From With the climbing Gods
Oct 1, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet

First Lead - Creature Feature (5.9+) Red River Gorge, KY. Such a freakin awesome climb that even pros hop on it!


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By Tanner Mitchell
From Fort Collins CO
Oct 18, 2008
At the top of Garfield Goes to Washington (5.8 3-pitch) Rushmore SD

First sport lead - Putt Putt, Toot Toot (5.7, 3 or 4 bolts) - South Seas Area of Rushmore, SD. It was a pretty straight forward lead, but it was nice to finally lead something outside of the gym.

First trad lead - Broken Crack (5.6)- Duncan's Ridge, N Colo. Toproped it first, placing some gear, then cleaned it and lead up. I should have put a longer runner on my first piece though - that sucker pulled up and out as soon as I weighted the rope to be lowered.


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By Brad Killough IV
Administrator
From hartselle, Alabama
Nov 8, 2008
Can you say cheesie?

First decent trad. lead was Knife Crack 5.9+, Griffin Falls Ala.


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By Matt Sedor
From bozeman, MT
Nov 8, 2008
robbins crack

first trad lead was cryogenics, a 10a crack on independence pass. this dude who used to frequent the bar i worked at always asked me if id climbed it, and i would say no, i dont have trad gear. one day he brought all of this old school gear in (old chouinad cams, like u stem camalots) and let me borrow it as long as i promised to lead cryogenics. it was an intersting intro into trad climbing, but it built up enough confidence for me to redpoint multiple 11+ trad routes less than a year later! new gear suddenly seemed bomber to me!


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By Brad Killough IV
Administrator
From hartselle, Alabama
Nov 9, 2008
Can you say cheesie?

Tanner Mitchell wrote:
First sport lead - Putt Putt, Toot Toot (5.7, 3 or 4 bolts) - South Seas Area of Rushmore, SD. It was a pretty straight forward lead, but it was nice to finally lead something outside of the gym. First trad lead - Broken Crack (5.6)- Duncan's Ridge, N Colo. Toproped it first, placing some gear, then cleaned it and lead up. I should have put a longer runner on my first piece though - that sucker pulled up and out as soon as I weighted the rope to be lowered.

Remember to allways equalize that first piece. If you would have took flight, the rest would have probably zippered............!


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Nov 9, 2008
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

bradkillough wrote:
Remember to allways equalize that first piece. If you would have took flight, the rest would have probably zippered............!


A cam as the first piece works just as well.


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By Puzman
Apr 20, 2009
Around the 1st waterfall, looking down.

First lead was Three Pines (5.3) at the Gunks. 3-4 pitches (depending on how you do it), pretty steep, lots of rope drag for the uninitiated, and fortunately great gear. Very exciting third pitch!


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By Izza
Apr 20, 2009

First lead ever was trad, which is how you learn to climb in the great state of NC. Pitch 3 off of the big ledge midway up The Daddy on the NC Wall. Only 5.4 or 5.5 but what a classic route in the spectacular setting of the Linville Gorge. Have done this route multiple times since and will do it again many times in the future.
CLASSIC!!!


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By David Aguasca
From Plymouth, NH
Apr 20, 2009
The offwidth on Inhibitor (5.11a), RRG.

First sport lead: Glory Jean's (5.6), at Rumney. Pretty uneventful.

First trad lead (attempt): Limelight (5.7) at the Gunks...the route starts on top of a small 25ft ledge. I started up it...typical Gunks route, with PG protection. I placed a small nut (like...#4 BD) 15 ft off the ledge, climbed another 10ft, and suddenly I heard considerable commotion from below. My friends, who were watching, saw the nut pop out and slide down the belay...leaving me 50ft off the deck...so I downclimbed, and got on the first pitch of Arrow (5.7) instead.


Jay Knower wrote:
A cam as the first piece works just as well.


Hey, I missed you at Cathedral the other day.

And, most of the time cams are good for outward pull as a first piece...it depends on the placement, though...


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By Pat C
From Honolulu,HI... was in Indio
Apr 20, 2009
me

The trough. Taquitz. 5.0


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By Brad Killough IV
Administrator
From hartselle, Alabama
Apr 20, 2009
Can you say cheesie?

Jay Knower wrote:
A cam as the first piece works just as well.
Very true, as long as it's equalized!


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By Tanner Mitchell
From Fort Collins CO
Jun 26, 2009
At the top of Garfield Goes to Washington (5.8 3-pitch) Rushmore SD

Brad IV wrote:
Remember to allways equalize that first piece. If you would have took flight, the rest would have probably zippered............!


I've remembered it every time I leave the deck - haven't popped one since...maybe I take too long fiddling with placements. More practice!


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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Jun 27, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wall.

Pat C wrote:
The trough. Taquitz. 5.0

That was my my first "trad" free solo. First "sport" and first ever free solo was The Trough at Big Rock by Lake Perris. 5.4 bolted face. That was also my first lead. Slippery fun. I don't solo anymore...except for Flatirons.


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By Andy A
From Boulder, Colorado
Jun 28, 2009
Rrrr...

First sport lead..and first time outside the gym was Rolfed 5.9? at Foster Falls. I learned to clean on that route too and lead Bear Mountain Picnic 5.8+ the next day. My first good whipper though was on Misty 5.10 at Sandrock.

My first trad lead was just yesterday on West Dihedral and West Crack 5.2/4 and Boulder Direct 5.5 later that day.


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