By Stich From Colorado Springs, Colorado Mar 12, 2008
| I usually don't mention that first free solo before I discovered people climbed with special shoes and ropes. (shudders) It was also in Austin near the Urban Assault Wall. Some 50ft. system of ledges up a corner to a loose scree top out with bushes and clawing for life. Did it alone and promptly lost the memory of doing it for years. PTSD? |  FLAG |
By percious From Arvada, CO Mar 12, 2008
| Scott M. Mossman wrote: East Slab, The Dome, Boulder Canyon 1972 My favourite climb of any grade in the canyon. |  FLAG |
By Brad Killough IV Administrator From hartselle, Alabama Mar 31, 2008
| If your climbing in the southeast ,say around Tennessee, try afterburner 5.5 at foster falls. It was my sons first lead and its pretty straight forward and well protected! |  FLAG |
By Brad Killough IV Administrator From hartselle, Alabama Mar 31, 2008
| In Alabama, Sand Rock has a couple, one is kennel club 5.8 and My dog has fleas, both are on the Holiday Block, for those who don't know. |  FLAG |
By Brad Killough IV Administrator From hartselle, Alabama Mar 31, 2008
| bradkillough wrote: If your climbing in the southeast ,say around Tennessee, try afterburner 5.5 at foster falls. It was my sons first lead and its pretty straight forward and well protected! My first was kennel club at sand rock, went from it straight to too pumped to chump, which was an eye opener, to say the least and made it, so I went from a blocky 5.8 to a pumpy, overhanging 5.10. Too pumped to chump scared the crap out of me, with it being just my second lead.......! That was maybe ten years ago...............! |  FLAG |
By Jay F. Weekly From Georgetown, KY Apr 1, 2008
| My first trad lead was Foreplay at Devil's Lake, in October of 1997. I definitely remember sewing it up, and actually smearing on one of the last moves (a heady thing to do on a first lead at the Lake, even if it was only a 5.4). Had a great time, and thinking about it, I really need to get back there and lead it again for old time's sake... |  FLAG |
By Jay Knower Administrator From Plymouth, NH Apr 1, 2008
| Jay F. Weekly wrote: My first trad lead was Foreplay at Devil's Lake, in October of 1997. I definitely remember sewing it up, and actually smearing on one of the last moves (a heady thing to do on a first lead at the Lake, even if it was only a 5.4). Had a great time, and thinking about it, I really need to get back there and lead it again for old time's sake...
I know Foreplay well. That's a proud first lead (especially with the smearing). |  FLAG |
By Tom Hanson From Castle Rock, CO Apr 1, 2008
| My first lead was Piece of Cake (5.6 or 7?) at Taylors Falls, MN sometime in the mid-seventies |  FLAG |
By Daryl Allan From Sierra Vista, AZ May 6, 2008
| Silver Spoon
Sometime during the spring of 1991.... ahh, to be young and dumb again.
Edit:: okay, okay - to be young again... (i got the other thing covered). |  FLAG |
By Devin C. Aug 12, 2008
| First lead was about 3 weeks ago, 5.6/5.7
My brother and I have just started getting more serious about climbing in the last month or two. Bought a rope a month ago, top roped for about a week and then he bought some quick draws and started leading sport climbs at a wall just down the road from my parents house (Jemez mtns in New Mexico).
I Led a 5.9 on sat and had no prob. and decided to try a .10d last night, needless to say this opened my eyes a bit. took my first fall of ~10-12 ft. it was nice to see that the gear all held and get the feeling of taking a decent sized fall, but I think I'll stick to the lower rated climbs for a bit, until my skills progress a bit more and I'm more comfortable with being above the rope. |  FLAG |
By Shawn Mitchell From Broomfield Aug 12, 2008
| 1977. The Trough, a bolted 5.5. face climb at Big Rock, Lake Perris, near Riverside, California.
My first gear lead was either the Shadow or Hernia, both 5.8s at Suicide Rock in So Cal. |  FLAG |
By Tim Kline From Littleton, co Aug 12, 2008
| My first sport lead was .7 way cool junior in the south seas at Rushmore. Really super easy climb, but great for a first time lead.
My first real trad lead was a 5.8 in spearfish canyon called all strung out on crack. Unfortunately I feel the climb was ruined because somebody bolted a perfect crack, but none the less I went ahead and did a trad lead on it and it was a great lead. I haven't done much trad yet, but I've got a full rack and I'm working on it, but I want to be safe and I'm learning from my buddy Todd who is very experience in trad leading. |  FLAG |
By StuM From Blandiego, CA Aug 12, 2008
| First lead was "Movin' to Montana" in Yosemite. First trad lead was "Holdless Horror" on Dozier Dome in Tuolumne. The very next day we did Cathedral Peak; I led six pitches, and by the time we topped out thunderstorms were moving in. When everything around me started buzzing (including my helmet), I performed the fastest rappel of my young climbing life and managed to get down safely. In all, the weekend was a very exciting introduction to trad climbing. |  FLAG |
By Robert 560 From The Land of the Lost Aug 12, 2008
| PRRose wrote: It was long ago and far away... I can't recall if my first lead was Son of Easy O or Bonnie's Roof (Gunks) .
This is about the same for me 1st lead was about 1975 |  FLAG |
By Pete Elliott From Co Spgs CO Aug 12, 2008
| First sport lead was also Silver Spoon (5.6) in Garden of the Gods.
First trad lead was Jaws (5.6) at Elevenmile Canyon. |  FLAG |
By YDPL8S Aug 12, 2008
| My first 2 leads were, on sandstone - the dreaded Calypso on Wind Tower (I think it wasn't as slippery in 1972) and on granite - East Slab on the Dome (runout on bad stopper placements). |  FLAG |
By Jim Gloeckler From Denver, Colo. Aug 12, 2008
| 1st Lead was 3rd Pitch of Cussin Crack (5.6) in 1971. Wearing Royal Robbin's shoes, actually they were boots, and they were not that good for free-climbing (unless you were Royal himself I guess). That was just the start of a long learning process! |  FLAG |
By YDPL8S Aug 12, 2008
| Jim Gloeckler wrote: Wearing Royal Robbin's shoes, actually they were boots, and they were not that good for free-climbing (unless you were Royal himself I guess).
Sorry, beg to differ, they were killer for cracks, could climb all day and never get sore feet. Also, nothing better at edging and comfortable enough for extended work on big walls.....smearing? not so good.
http://mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/juniper_canyon/>>>>>
Rainbow Wall - The Original Route 5.12 |  FLAG |
By Shawn Mitchell From Broomfield Aug 12, 2008
| I'm with Jim. I wore 'em up Mescalito in 1981, and the thought of free climbing anything in them...ugh. I aided up the Half Dollar chimney on another climb whose name I won't mention, because it didn't go as well... |  FLAG |
By YDPL8S Aug 12, 2008
| Hell Shawn, Robbins first ascent of that (in '61) was probably in big boots! |  FLAG |
By Rick Witting Aug 12, 2008
| Caramel Corner 5.4 at Castlewood Canyon 1986. If there were sport/bolted routes back then, I didn't know about them. First ice lead at Officers Gulch 1991. I didn't know anybody that climbed, so I would have to get neighbors, friends, my brother, anyone to belay and I supplied the gear (which wasn't much and pretty primitive). |  FLAG |
By Shawn Mitchell From Broomfield Aug 12, 2008
| Scott M. Mossman wrote: Hell Shawn, Robbins first ascent of that (in '61) was probably in big boots! Yeah, but...Royal Robbins! That's like saying George Mikan could dunk in Converse tennies in 50-something...why can't I? :)
To clarify, we were headed for the Shield but there's a 1000' of Salathe to get there. If we had been climbing Salathe, I would have aimed for more free climbing...but that chimney was an ugly, flared sandbag...for a gumby like moi.
PS-"headed for" does not = "climbed." |  FLAG |
By YDPL8S Aug 12, 2008
| I totally relate Shawn, that Yosemite granite seemed slippery as hell the first time I touched it, couldn't get my Robbins to stick for sh&*! I just have a warm spot in my heart for the old Blue Meanies. |  FLAG |
By Shawn Mitchell From Broomfield Aug 12, 2008
| "old Blue Meanies"... LOL. Love your pic of Tahquitz. Memories of the early adventures...
EDIT: PTW somehting or other...whatever teh kids say at teh top of the page. |  FLAG |
By Rick Witting Aug 12, 2008
| Shawn Mitchell wrote: 1977. The Trough, a bolted 5.5. face climb at Big Rock, Lake Perris, near Riverside, California. I climbed there in 1991. My first experience with slab. We were on our way back from Tahquitz where we got in over our head and started rapping the route. 3 old guys gave us some better descent directions. I wouldn't have known at the time, but I'll bet it was Robbins and Chounard. |  FLAG |
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