I have been climbing for about 9 years now. When I first started climbing I had wished for a good book that described knots, anchors, safety techniques, proper rope management, techniques and skills for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering. I purchased a large number of books when I first started to help learn these skills. I found most of these books to be difficult to understand, using jargon that I didn’t yet understand, giving descriptions of systems but no pictures (making it very difficult to do on my own).

When I friend recommended that I should read Craig Luebben’s book, “Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide.” I thought it would just be a waste of time; one – because I had over time learned most of the things offered in books of that nature, and two – I didn’t want to get confused and frustrated by looking at some (pardon my French) half-ass pictures of the things described in the book. Both of these reason seemed like I would be wasting my time. This friend of mine insisted that I read it and gave me his copy, so I started into it.

Just the shear number and quality of photos BLEW away any other comparable book. It looked like there are about 3X as many photos as others on the market, making it the BEST visual source of information on individual placements as well as overall anchor configurations that I had ever seen in a book. As we all know, "a picture is worth a thousand words." And, in this case, a picture could be worth a life as well. I could go on and on about how/why this book is so much stronger than others out there. Some highlights are below:

- There is a whole chapter explaining climbing physics, and there is a lot more information about cam and nut design and placement considerations. Which is great for beginners to understand how and what is happening, when they climb.

- A Vast number of anchor rigging options are discussed and pictured. They range from advanced multiple staged anchors to some minimalistic ones just using slings.

- Luebben does a much better job (compared to other authors) explaining how to make judgment-based decisions as opposed to following a standard set of rules for all situations, because every situation is different.

- Luebben's mechanical engineering background is very apparent when you read this book. Being an engineer myself, I really appreciate having a book written by someone who truly understands the mechanics and forces involved with anchor rigging.

- He explains the appropriate distinction between top roping, rappelling, sport climbing, trad climbing, aiding, and mountaineering. He also explains fall forces, and there effects. And also the v-angle and pulley effect. Basically he covers everything from a basic level skills to advanced skills

- When compared to the other leading climbing book on the market about anchors and such things, “Climbing Anchors” by John Long does not even compare. The difference in the number of pictures and descriptions is astounding

- All of the above factors make Luebben's book a better source climbers, beginners or more experienced, even advanced climbers.

Bottom line...even if you have other books (new or old) it is well worth your money to invest in buying this book. So much has changed in anchor theory in recent years and this book brings together the latest and greatest options. And if you are looking to get into climbing then this book is a MUST have, the information in it is worth more about the same as a human life.

--Taylor--

Totally agree, this is a great book.

Ditto to the above. I am new to climbing this year and a few months ago took a course on anchors at CSU. Following that, I wanted to reinforce what I had learned in the course as well as expand on same. I bought a couple of books including Craig Leubben's. They were both very good but Leubben's was much better for me as a beginner especially as a result of the excellent illustrations. John Long's book, the other book I bought, certainly had plenty of good info but the photos often left a lot to be desired. I agree fully with Taylor about the other positive attributes of Leubben's book. I will read this book over and over again as my climbing career evolves.

I've got it too. I love it. I even put 10 hooks on my wall and I randomly try to make equalized anchors off of them. The pictures in his book are great.

Luebben is a legend. I took his self rescue course (3 days) and learned tons of skills to make me a more self sufficient climber. Highly recommended!

It surprises me that more climbers (especially alpine) are not aware of the techniques to rescue injured climbers. Most all of my friends lack basic knot skills and techniques to escape the belay and haul and simul rappel. I fear that someday I'll need help and no one will be there to do so!

I ran into Craig when he was putting the book together. As he tells it, he wanted to put even more photos into the book. It did turn out very well, probably the best book of its kind out there.

I also agree this is a great book. I relearned allot of things. I have referred to it many times.

I guess I lucked out. I went to buy some climbing books when I was just starting and Luebben's book was the only anchor book available at the Barnes & Noble I was at. I like it immensely and didn't realize that it was any different until I thought I wanted to get another book on anchors. After flipping through a few at a used book store I realized that even though the price was right I wasn't going to get much new out of another book.

Luebben's Rock Climbing Anchors is the best book on anchors I've seen. I highly recommend it. Most of the time, I prefer drawings to photographs in instructional books, but at least Luebben's pictures do not recall Hegel's night, in which all cows are black.